Search found 75 matches

by heacocis
Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:42 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: FOMV Trail Day
Replies: 1
Views: 794

Re: FOMV Trail Day

A follow-up reminder that the 10th annual Friends of Muir Valley Trail Day is this Saturday! Please consider attending and helping out. Trail Day is very important for all users of Muir Valley, as several large projects are completed each year that contribute to the safety and overall quality of Mui...
by heacocis
Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:21 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sorry Kip...
Replies: 6
Views: 1720

Sorry Kip...

I just finished replacing all your bolts at Midnight Surf with Wave Bolts and cleaned all the permadraws. You can thank me later and, btw, you owe me about $400 for the new hardware. Also, I will be preemptively replacing mechanical bolts all around the red and billing the route developer when I am ...
by heacocis
Fri Nov 16, 2012 11:32 pm
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: Route to the left of glide
Replies: 6
Views: 2210

Re: Route to the left of glide

pigsteak wrote:Ron Bateman and josh Thurston started that one years ago. Isaac finish it?
Yes Ron josh and I started that one a few years ago. We didnt get past cleaning it cause the anchor was in not great rock so that wss going to be done first. The route seemed pretty cool. Did the OP send it?
by heacocis
Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:03 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Moves for Muir at Hoosier Heights
Replies: 3
Views: 230061

Re: Moves for Muir at Hoosier Heights

We are very proud to be hosting our second-annual Moves for Muir comp and fundraising event. This is a major fundraiser for the Friends of Muir Valley. Last year we raised and donated over $6500 to the FoMV! This year the event will be held Friday Nov. 23 - Sunday Nov. 25. We start the event off wit...
by heacocis
Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:17 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Replies: 164
Views: 160320

Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

dustonian wrote: Looks like I'll be making the switch to Epcon
Of course that is what I was getting at! You may never use the Hilti stuff again.
by heacocis
Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:56 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Replies: 164
Views: 160320

Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

dustonian wrote:...Hilton RE500 epoxy, the type that must be used in warm temps.
Dustin, why do you say this? Is it because it is more user friendly, or is there a chemical/technical reason it literally must be used?
by heacocis
Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:51 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Drill question
Replies: 33
Views: 4831

Re: Drill question

You're not serious, right? If you are, then no offense, but you have no business even thinking about bolting.
by heacocis
Mon Nov 21, 2011 6:31 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: not just PDs...bolt standards?
Replies: 19
Views: 2386

not just PDs...bolt standards?

So Joe Kinder's recent blog post http://www.joekindkid.com/?p=8065 got me thinking...do we need to have a discussion of bolt standards following the current one about PDs? Joe apparently started bolting a line in the Madness Cave, and used Powers bolts. No big deal (I'm trying to keep my self intere...
by heacocis
Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:39 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Long Wall Ambo
Replies: 31
Views: 4830

Re: Long Wall Ambo

I think the gyms have a responsibility that they may not be living up to. Is there a word of warning in the gyms to the effect that "What one experiences here does not prepare one for climbing in the outdoor environment. Critical skill sets that are not part of climbing in the gym are required. Cli...
by heacocis
Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:27 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Top 5 Ethics
Replies: 24
Views: 2633

Re: Top 5 Ethics

I would be happy to donate a Wave Bolt to an educational cause if it were to go in the Kiosk, or hung at Miguel's, or what ever. I still hear people call them "staples" and have no idea what they are, or how safe they are. Interestingly though, the same people climb right up the routes equipped with...
by heacocis
Fri Oct 21, 2011 1:33 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: How to apply Fixed gear in the Red
Replies: 38
Views: 6016

Re: How to apply Fixed gear in the Red

I agree with those who say it should be up to the route developer, and I suggest that moving forward we apply this to new routes. In my opinion being a route developer means much more than just putting some bolts in a piece of rock, it also means for example equipping the route properly. Equipping a...
by heacocis
Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:38 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Gear Failure at Military Wall
Replies: 16
Views: 2499

Re: Gear Failure at Military Wall

Having the gates on each of the draw's biners opposed doesn't matter. Well the rope side biner doesn't matter as it relates to the hanger side biner braking, but it matters if you don't want your rope coming unclipped from the rope side biner. Page 10 of the Petzl Sport catalog has 2 great examples...
by heacocis
Sun Oct 16, 2011 2:42 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Gear Failure at Military Wall
Replies: 16
Views: 2499

Re: Gear Failure at Military Wall

Having the gates on each of the draw's biners opposed doesn't matter. What does matter is how the top biner is clipped into the hanger. If the route traverses one way or the other, the gate of the top biner should face away from the direction of the traverse. That way, when the draw is pulled over t...
by heacocis
Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:45 am
Forum: Classifieds
Topic: Need a stainless steel expansion bolt & hanger
Replies: 11
Views: 1385

Re: Need a stainless steel expansion bolt & hanger

heacocis wrote:As pig points out, the Hilti SD is approved for underwater applications, as is the ITW A7, which has been used to pull up massive rocks from the sea floor.

Wow, I was way off! In my no-sleep delirium I thought Pigsteak wrote that. Sorry Dustin!
by heacocis
Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:52 pm
Forum: Classifieds
Topic: Need a stainless steel expansion bolt & hanger
Replies: 11
Views: 1385

Re: Need a stainless steel expansion bolt & hanger

As pig points out, the Hilti SD is approved for underwater applications, as is the ITW A7, which has been used to pull up massive rocks from the sea floor.