Search found 28 matches

by jenbongo
Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:53 pm
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: this weekend - 8 / 9 September - looking for a third!
Replies: 7
Views: 1794

Re: this weekend - 8 / 9 September - looking for a third!

I'm not currently planning on coming down this weekend (15/16th), but I'm hoping to get back there this fall with my friend who has a 1 1/3 yo, so we may need a third, too. (And watching 2x 1yos and a 4yo might be a little much for one adult, so 2 adults on the ground might be good.)
by jenbongo
Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:17 am
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: Partner: Now through Sep 30
Replies: 1
Views: 643

Re: Partner: Now through Sep 30

I'm sitting at Miguel's computer looking for someone to climb with. I can TR .11s maybe .12s. I also have a trad rack, but only lead .7 maybe .8 trad. I lead .10s and easy .11s sport.
by jenbongo
Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:09 am
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: this weekend - 8 / 9 September - looking for a third!
Replies: 7
Views: 1794

Re: this weekend - 8 / 9 September - looking for a third!

I'm sitting at Miguel's computer. Looking for someone to climb with today (and hoping the rain will stop soon.) Still looking for someone?
by jenbongo
Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:54 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Low Key Trad Crag
Replies: 14
Views: 3571

Re: Low Key Trad Crag

Yes, I was just at Dip Wall Saturday, April 23rd. It rained all night and most of the climbs were dry with enough dry ground at the bottom for your packs, too. The 4 routes mentioned above were dry plus Theodore Seuss Geisel/Seuss is Dead, and Purple Cleaning Company. The Lorax Tree was dripping wet...
by jenbongo
Mon Nov 29, 2010 12:26 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Ambulance at RS sat night.
Replies: 59
Views: 9516

Re: Ambulance at RS sat night.

I recently heard about someone that smashed their belayer into the boulder (on Ro) because they forgot to unclip the belay end of the rope when cleaned bolt #1 and took the swing. Experienced guy, ,maybe just tired at the end of the day and not "vigilant" enough according to third hand sources(?). ...
by jenbongo
Thu Nov 18, 2010 2:14 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hardest sport route for the grade
Replies: 95
Views: 16486

Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Don't get me started on trad ratings. This was supposed to be a sport thread. But since you mentioned it, I would agree RA is a little stout, maybe an 8, but not as bad as Vision at Global village. No way that is a 7. I thought Diamond in the Crack felt like 5.6; maybe I lead the easy pitch. I did d...
by jenbongo
Thu Nov 18, 2010 12:34 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hardest sport route for the grade
Replies: 95
Views: 16486

Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

5.9- Ridin' the Short Buzz @ Chica Bonita 5.9 It's a Beautiful Life @ Pistol Ridge and Threat Level Blue @ What About Bob 5.9+ Darwin Loves You @ Volunteer Wall .10a Fast Food Christian's @ Left Flank, oh wait, you don't count the first move; nevermind, it's easy. .10a Monkey Bars @ the Playground (...
by jenbongo
Mon Nov 01, 2010 5:30 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Replies: 14
Views: 2400

Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear

We were out there in October 2009 and there were fixed draws on Twinkie that already had quite a bit of wear and were getting sharp. We replaced 1 or 2 biners, and if I recall, the group ahead of us replaced one, too . . . definitely a candidate for steel biners, if it's allowed.
by jenbongo
Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:16 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Financial Support for Climbing from Climbers: The Problem
Replies: 75
Views: 11885

Re: Financial Support for Climbing from Climbers: The Proble

How much should I donate? As much as I can? As much as it's worth to me? As much as my friend donated? The cost of equipping a route? My share? Total maintenance expenses/number of climbers? Total expenses/number of people who actually donate? Estimated cost per climb? . . . per time lowered off of ...
by jenbongo
Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:59 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Saturday's Accident at PMRP
Replies: 97
Views: 15563

Re: Saturday's Accident at PMRP

I agree with rappelling over lowering when possible to reduce wear on the anchors. However, I have heard that the PMRP wants you to lower, and if they have enough people maintaining the anchors, that's fine. (Do they?) But Muir Valley wants you to rappel, so you can't just say, "at the Red". The log...
by jenbongo
Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:06 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: You are not a climber till ya climb a 5.12
Replies: 29
Views: 6716

The Shire also has some easy routes for the vertically challenged.
by jenbongo
Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:52 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: The most technique-intensive route you've climbed at the RRG
Replies: 95
Views: 18606

Momma Cindy .11something with heel-hooking and mantling
Jungle Trundler .11a with undercling-balance move
Happy Trails .10b - bulgy, so you can't see what you're going for
Slick and the 9mm .10b sport + 5.9 trad (2 pitches) for variety
Snake 5.8 trad - slither, then hand jam
by jenbongo
Mon May 10, 2010 4:50 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: trad rating vs. sport
Replies: 49
Views: 9492

So, I know my overhanging jug-haul technique is better than my hand-jamming technique, but how much technique are you supposed to need for a 5.7? And am I supposed to have bruises on my hands from jamming a 5.7? (Environmental Impact at Pebble Beach this weekend - not as hard as Vision, but comparab...
by jenbongo
Wed May 05, 2010 12:43 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: trad rating vs. sport
Replies: 49
Views: 9492

Into the Purple Valley, 5.8 - it converted 8 + ) to smiley face 5. 8)
Anyway, the whole rating system is a mess; it's different everywhere, dependent on peoples strengths and weaknesses, and you'll never be able to adjust for height differences, whatever.
by jenbongo
Wed May 05, 2010 12:36 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: trad rating vs. sport
Replies: 49
Views: 9492

I thought they were supposed to be the same scale, but in my experience, they are not. Take Eureka, at Global Village: it seems apropriately rated at 5.6 trad (I just lead it on gear a few weeks ago), but as a sport route, everyone says it's a little stout. Father and Son, I can agree with as 5.7 tr...