Search found 86 matches

by shear
Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:59 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sport Climbing Season
Replies: 42
Views: 9316

Re: Sport Climbing Season

Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they woul...
by shear
Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:31 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sport Climbing Season
Replies: 42
Views: 9316

Re: Sport Climbing Season

One-Fall- Out of the areas I have climbed around the states, southern Spain, frankenjura, and ceuse NR and most of the tech routes would be a grade or 2 softer. I've mainly come to that conclusion after spending time in Europe, I thought the climbing was going to be aboUt the same but it is truly h...
by shear
Sat Dec 01, 2012 11:25 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sport Climbing Season
Replies: 42
Views: 9316

Re: Sport Climbing Season

allah wrote:Hey! I gave no redemption 12d originally same thing with brilliant orange. But we all know after this season that the red is soft right?
Yeah Kenny...12d is probably spot on. 8)

The New is my barometer...so I literally have NO idea.
by shear
Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:36 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sport Climbing Season
Replies: 42
Views: 9316

Re: Sport Climbing Season

Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags. Sweet! Team Wheatley can replace the bolts then ;) Beautiful line Kenny... thing was getting gangbanged this fall. That's not my line, wish I could...
by shear
Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:30 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Fixed Gear
Replies: 284
Views: 45056

Re: Fixed Gear

Unless it's porn , folks tend to turn the channel when being preached to or told the exact thing over and over. Your mission has turned into one of those dog abuse commercials, first time ya see it , you shed a tear and think about, then after it's played 15 times during Frasier it kind of pisses y...
by shear
Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:30 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Fixed Gear
Replies: 284
Views: 45056

Re: Fixed Gear

4.). Steel is safer. It wears 10 times slower. That means sharp edges will develop more slowly giving people more time to catch it. And the only reason I am proposing steel is because aluminum will go up in its place. More time to catch it? More time than what? A sharp carabiner is a sharp carabine...
by shear
Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:36 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Fixed Gear
Replies: 284
Views: 45056

Re: Fixed Gear

4.). Steel is safer. It wears 10 times slower. That means sharp edges will develop more slowly giving people more time to catch it. And the only reason I am proposing steel is because aluminum will go up in its place. More time to catch it? More time than what? A sharp carabiner is a sharp carabine...
by shear
Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:26 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Does plumb make the line?
Replies: 37
Views: 8316

Re: Does plumb make the line?

In highly featured places like the red...it's hard for a route NOT to be plumb and direct. But go anywhere else where the features are far less (such as the NRG or places in TN) and you have to follow the features...the bolts can be straightened out, always, but the climbing follows the weakness. An...
by shear
Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:14 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Ondra Patrol
Replies: 167
Views: 45180

Re: Ondra Patrol

Bahhaaahaaa, Tiger playing a public course that I could get on to. Now, it might happen once to someone, somewhere... but it sure as hell ain't common. However, I can be climbing Loompa, while Ondra is onsighting Pure Imagination. Plus, when he is done "competing" there are no special passes requir...
by shear
Fri Dec 16, 2011 10:49 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Tendinitis
Replies: 58
Views: 15751

Re: Tendinitis

Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea. Warm up, stretch, cool down each day of climbing. Do proper antagonist exercises to strengthen. Ice massage Cross friction massage
by shear
Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:51 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Cold Weather 11's
Replies: 14
Views: 3585

Re: Cold Weather 11's

Anything at the endless wall...
by shear
Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:47 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 38321

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

I can't wait to tell Timmy he's the subject of "over-the-hill" crushers.
by shear
Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:29 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: PDs at Lode
Replies: 557
Views: 168727

Re: PDs at Lode

Shear- Are you aware that pd's and climber behavior/impact were some of the deciding factors in the closure at roadside? So there's nothing wrong with aluminum biners being fixed on some of the most traveled routes in the world and it's simply a matter of climber initiative to keep the fixed gear s...
by shear
Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:56 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: PDs at Lode
Replies: 557
Views: 168727

Re: PDs at Lode

Shear, very untrue. That's a fact. Ok. I'll admit I haven't been there this season and have just talked to people, out of towners, who have visited the Red. None of those guys have complained, so I was just going by that... It does seem that this has divided the community though, and not in a good ...
by shear
Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:24 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: PDs at Lode
Replies: 557
Views: 168727

Re: PDs at Lode

pigsteak wrote:hmmmm, so maybe the crowds will leave if it is miserable at the Red. boom..mission accomplished by the krue.
Funny thing is that the "crowds" aren't complaining at all...it's everyone who "cares". You are all the ones complaining...