Search found 86 matches
- Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:59 am
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Sport Climbing Season
- Replies: 42
- Views: 10292
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they woul...
- Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:31 am
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Sport Climbing Season
- Replies: 42
- Views: 10292
Re: Sport Climbing Season
One-Fall- Out of the areas I have climbed around the states, southern Spain, frankenjura, and ceuse NR and most of the tech routes would be a grade or 2 softer. I've mainly come to that conclusion after spending time in Europe, I thought the climbing was going to be aboUt the same but it is truly h...
- Sat Dec 01, 2012 11:25 pm
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Sport Climbing Season
- Replies: 42
- Views: 10292
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Yeah Kenny...12d is probably spot on.allah wrote:Hey! I gave no redemption 12d originally same thing with brilliant orange. But we all know after this season that the red is soft right?

The New is my barometer...so I literally have NO idea.
- Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:36 am
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Sport Climbing Season
- Replies: 42
- Views: 10292
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags. Sweet! Team Wheatley can replace the bolts then ;) Beautiful line Kenny... thing was getting gangbanged this fall. That's not my line, wish I could...
- Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:30 am
- Forum: Climbing Community
- Topic: Fixed Gear
- Replies: 284
- Views: 50685
Re: Fixed Gear
Unless it's porn , folks tend to turn the channel when being preached to or told the exact thing over and over. Your mission has turned into one of those dog abuse commercials, first time ya see it , you shed a tear and think about, then after it's played 15 times during Frasier it kind of pisses y...
- Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:30 am
- Forum: Climbing Community
- Topic: Fixed Gear
- Replies: 284
- Views: 50685
Re: Fixed Gear
4.). Steel is safer. It wears 10 times slower. That means sharp edges will develop more slowly giving people more time to catch it. And the only reason I am proposing steel is because aluminum will go up in its place. More time to catch it? More time than what? A sharp carabiner is a sharp carabine...
- Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:36 am
- Forum: Climbing Community
- Topic: Fixed Gear
- Replies: 284
- Views: 50685
Re: Fixed Gear
4.). Steel is safer. It wears 10 times slower. That means sharp edges will develop more slowly giving people more time to catch it. And the only reason I am proposing steel is because aluminum will go up in its place. More time to catch it? More time than what? A sharp carabiner is a sharp carabine...
- Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:26 pm
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Does plumb make the line?
- Replies: 37
- Views: 9087
Re: Does plumb make the line?
In highly featured places like the red...it's hard for a route NOT to be plumb and direct. But go anywhere else where the features are far less (such as the NRG or places in TN) and you have to follow the features...the bolts can be straightened out, always, but the climbing follows the weakness. An...
- Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:14 am
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Ondra Patrol
- Replies: 167
- Views: 48921
Re: Ondra Patrol
Bahhaaahaaa, Tiger playing a public course that I could get on to. Now, it might happen once to someone, somewhere... but it sure as hell ain't common. However, I can be climbing Loompa, while Ondra is onsighting Pure Imagination. Plus, when he is done "competing" there are no special passes requir...
- Fri Dec 16, 2011 10:49 am
- Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
- Topic: Tendinitis
- Replies: 58
- Views: 17124
Re: Tendinitis
Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea. Warm up, stretch, cool down each day of climbing. Do proper antagonist exercises to strengthen. Ice massage Cross friction massage
- Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:51 am
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Cold Weather 11's
- Replies: 14
- Views: 3937
Re: Cold Weather 11's
Anything at the endless wall...
- Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:47 am
- Forum: Sport
- Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
- Replies: 136
- Views: 41125
Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
I can't wait to tell Timmy he's the subject of "over-the-hill" crushers.
- Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:29 pm
- Forum: Front Page
- Topic: PDs at Lode
- Replies: 557
- Views: 180305
Re: PDs at Lode
Shear- Are you aware that pd's and climber behavior/impact were some of the deciding factors in the closure at roadside? So there's nothing wrong with aluminum biners being fixed on some of the most traveled routes in the world and it's simply a matter of climber initiative to keep the fixed gear s...
- Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:56 pm
- Forum: Front Page
- Topic: PDs at Lode
- Replies: 557
- Views: 180305
Re: PDs at Lode
Shear, very untrue. That's a fact. Ok. I'll admit I haven't been there this season and have just talked to people, out of towners, who have visited the Red. None of those guys have complained, so I was just going by that... It does seem that this has divided the community though, and not in a good ...
- Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:24 pm
- Forum: Front Page
- Topic: PDs at Lode
- Replies: 557
- Views: 180305
Re: PDs at Lode
Funny thing is that the "crowds" aren't complaining at all...it's everyone who "cares". You are all the ones complaining...pigsteak wrote:hmmmm, so maybe the crowds will leave if it is miserable at the Red. boom..mission accomplished by the krue.