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Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they woul...

One-Fall- Out of the areas I have climbed around the states, southern Spain, frankenjura, and ceuse NR and most of the tech routes would be a grade or 2 softer. I've mainly come to that conclusion after spending time in Europe, I thought the climbing was going to be aboUt the same but it is truly h...

allah wrote:Hey! I gave no redemption 12d originally same thing with brilliant orange. But we all know after this season that the red is soft right?

Yeah Kenny...12d is probably spot on.

The New is my barometer...so I literally have NO idea.

Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags. Sweet! Team Wheatley can replace the bolts then ;) Beautiful line Kenny... thing was getting gangbanged this fall. That's not my line, wish I could...

Unless it's porn , folks tend to turn the channel when being preached to or told the exact thing over and over. Your mission has turned into one of those dog abuse commercials, first time ya see it , you shed a tear and think about, then after it's played 15 times during Frasier it kind of pisses y...

4.). Steel is safer. It wears 10 times slower. That means sharp edges will develop more slowly giving people more time to catch it. And the only reason I am proposing steel is because aluminum will go up in its place. More time to catch it? More time than what? A sharp carabiner is a sharp carabine...

4.). Steel is safer. It wears 10 times slower. That means sharp edges will develop more slowly giving people more time to catch it. And the only reason I am proposing steel is because aluminum will go up in its place. More time to catch it? More time than what? A sharp carabiner is a sharp carabine...

In highly featured places like the red...it's hard for a route NOT to be plumb and direct. But go anywhere else where the features are far less (such as the NRG or places in TN) and you have to follow the features...the bolts can be straightened out, always, but the climbing follows the weakness. An...

Bahhaaahaaa, Tiger playing a public course that I could get on to. Now, it might happen once to someone, somewhere... but it sure as hell ain't common. However, I can be climbing Loompa, while Ondra is onsighting Pure Imagination. Plus, when he is done "competing" there are no special passes requir...

Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea. Warm up, stretch, cool down each day of climbing. Do proper antagonist exercises to strengthen. Ice massage Cross friction massage

Anything at the endless wall...

I can't wait to tell Timmy he's the subject of "over-the-hill" crushers.

Shear- Are you aware that pd's and climber behavior/impact were some of the deciding factors in the closure at roadside? So there's nothing wrong with aluminum biners being fixed on some of the most traveled routes in the world and it's simply a matter of climber initiative to keep the fixed gear s...

Shear, very untrue. That's a fact. Ok. I'll admit I haven't been there this season and have just talked to people, out of towners, who have visited the Red. None of those guys have complained, so I was just going by that... It does seem that this has divided the community though, and not in a good ...

pigsteak wrote:hmmmm, so maybe the crowds will leave if it is miserable at the Red. boom..mission accomplished by the krue.

Funny thing is that the "crowds" aren't complaining at all...it's everyone who "cares". You are all the ones complaining...