Search found 3796 matches

by Wes
Mon Oct 08, 2012 12:03 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: By the numbers.
Replies: 63
Views: 7800

Re: By the numbers.

Fuck, I have been way more sketched on old school / Matt Tackett sport routes then any trad routes I have done.
by Wes
Tue May 24, 2011 7:47 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice
Replies: 418
Views: 188485

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

The only way to change behavior at climbing areas is via mandatory, enforceable access restrictions. While there are plenty of individual exceptions, the climbing community as a whole will never, ever be capable of self policing. Period. A car full of people set to climb at a crag will never see the...
by Wes
Fri Mar 26, 2010 1:01 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Over it
Replies: 30
Views: 2973

Over it

I had thoughts of a nice, long soapbox style sermon/rant, but guess I just don't care enough anymore. If the climbing community is going to stand by, silently, and let a few people beat down the people that keep climbing in the red going, then that community should get what it deserves. As for me, m...
by Wes
Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:17 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Do you own an iPhone or iPod touch?
Replies: 41
Views: 2436

We have two, but, might drop my coverage if the work phone I get can do google voice well enough. That way, I don't feel so bad about getting an ipad... They work pretty well over all, some kinda annoying things, but pretty much all smartphones have at least a few of those. Anything in particular th...
by Wes
Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:04 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: B3: Give me Micro-Beta!
Replies: 14
Views: 2135

PS, thinking back, I never actually sent any of those either, so much unfinished business across the country...
by Wes
Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:52 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: B3: Give me Micro-Beta!
Replies: 14
Views: 2135

The cliff notes version: 5.7 OWish sorta corner for a bit. Easy traverse left. Steep, but slammer fingers for a bit. Steep hands, but the crack is wavy, so you get great jams. Hands thin out, but still pretty good (this is the hardest part of the crack climbing, at least for me). Push left to a hori...
by Wes
Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:26 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: B3: Give me Micro-Beta!
Replies: 14
Views: 2135

clif wrote:hmm.. anyone think the crimps are optional?
Have you been on it? The crack pretty much ends, and you have 5-10 feet of face climbing to the ledge. This is, by the way, the 5.11 part of the route, pretty much 5.10 crack climbing otherwise.
by Wes
Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:20 pm
Forum: Opinions, Suggestions, Problems....
Topic: worst sport climbs in the Red
Replies: 51
Views: 4960

I haven't done most of the ones showing up, but agree with a few of them that I have done. But, I will say, the odds of climbing a crappy sport or trad route among all the routes out there are pretty small, and you can almost always tell from the ground that it is going to suck. Everyone has differe...
by Wes
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:43 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Is there any training anchors in pendergrass?
Replies: 67
Views: 4157

Clipping the chains on ro is the easiest part of teh route, but, crack attack is probably better training for it then the learning to clean anchors.

As for those, we have plenty of hardware, and it is a better place to use it, then bolting another 2 star choss pile.
by Wes
Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:16 pm
Forum: Opinions, Suggestions, Problems....
Topic: online guide v4.0: the cafe
Replies: 103
Views: 14596

Oh, how about a small widget on the forum main page with something like number of new comments, new routes, etc? Nothing big, just a kinda summery to click on if you want to. That way you don't have to visit the main guide page to see if there is anything new. And, if you do log into the forum, but ...
by Wes
Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:43 pm
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: Miami climbers, just moved to Lexington
Replies: 19
Views: 1702

The camping on 9 has nothing on the camping on the road to funk rock before they closed it.
by Wes
Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:34 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Do you love your life?
Replies: 90
Views: 4849

... but I think it's a lot better in theory than in practice. I can see that and agree with it, to a point. I could never last more then 2-3 months at a time of road tripping. Just got burned out, or bored or something. There is a balance though, to much work isn't right either. Semi-retired, with ...
by Wes
Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:26 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Beginner Group
Replies: 45
Views: 2925

Nah Eagle point isn't the place for newbys. Sure it is, as long as you have one person that can ether lead one of the routes, or has the skillz to hike around to the top, and set up some anchors. There are several very good face climbs, routes that would be 4-5 star moderate sport routes if they we...
by Wes
Wed Mar 17, 2010 6:59 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Beginner Group
Replies: 45
Views: 2925

i want to say eagle point was not too bad to set tr's on, from the ledge, anyone remember bett er than me. Nope, the trees that you TR from are all dead looking now. When i went with Jessie we set up a belay using pro. in the crack on the ledge. I don't remember using a tree. There are/were several...
by Wes
Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:12 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Beginner Group
Replies: 45
Views: 2925

i want to say eagle point was not too bad to set tr's on, from the ledge, anyone remember bett er than me. Nope, the trees that you TR from are all dead looking now. Wouldn't want to take anyone there that I cared about living. Even if there are some really cool moderate face climbs and a great vie...