Search found 187 matches

by Toy
Tue Dec 13, 2016 10:22 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: John O'Leary Haight - Goodbye my friend.
Replies: 10
Views: 187001

Re: John O'Leary Haight - Goodbye my friend.

My dad used to tell me stories about this guy he worked with that would leave work on Friday afternoon, hop on his road bike, and ride some 60 miles from Lexington to Cave Run Lake so he could sail all weekend. Until I talked to my dad this evening, I hadn't connected those stories from my younger d...
by Toy
Mon Dec 12, 2016 3:30 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Agonizingly Close....
Replies: 22
Views: 4776

Re: Agonizingly Close....

Andrew wrote:
Toy wrote:That's one perspective Andrew. Of course, another might be "those new guys must be fat"

yea the new guys broke all the holds.
No, just the fat ones
by Toy
Fri Dec 09, 2016 5:31 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Agonizingly Close....
Replies: 22
Views: 4776

Re: Agonizingly Close....

That's one perspective Andrew. Of course, another might be "those new guys must be fat"
by Toy
Sun Oct 30, 2016 8:52 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Lost shoes at Courtesy Wall
Replies: 2
Views: 886

Re: Lost shoes at Courtesy Wall

Rookie
by Toy
Sat Feb 20, 2016 10:54 pm
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: Wooly adelgid et. al.
Replies: 5
Views: 1690

Re: Wooly adelgid et. al.

Try again. This time without the gross misinterpretation of the data Mike
by Toy
Tue Dec 08, 2015 12:03 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: belaying through both parts of your harness
Replies: 21
Views: 8417

Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

This seems ridiculously improbable, but I'd be curious to see the video if you find it.
by Toy
Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:46 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: belaying through both parts of your harness
Replies: 21
Views: 8417

Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Both tie ins collapse together when upward force is applied to the gri-gri. I've never had my device stick on the Biner or load sideways since I've been doing this. The force loads longitudinally every time.
by Toy
Sat Dec 05, 2015 8:38 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: belaying through both parts of your harness
Replies: 21
Views: 8417

Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

I still put my locker through both tie in points instead of the belay loop, but I use a magnetron w/a keeper. This eliminates the cross-loading potential.
by Toy
Thu May 28, 2015 9:34 pm
Forum: Opinions, Suggestions, Problems....
Topic: List number of bolts in tables
Replies: 18
Views: 3737

Re: List number of bolts in tables

Fuck it! Ray, make sure you include bolt descriptions when you add that column. I need to know which bolts are 5-piece Rawls, dynabolts, glue ins. I'll also need to know which are spinners, which hand the clipping hold is and a bio for the placer of each bolt. Please include a list of reference with...
by Toy
Thu May 28, 2015 9:29 pm
Forum: Opinions, Suggestions, Problems....
Topic: List number of bolts in tables
Replies: 18
Views: 3737

Re: List number of bolts in tables

This makes me long for the days of Porter's guidebook. Hand drawn cliff outline, a list of route names and grades. No pics, descriptions, stars or spray.
by Toy
Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:27 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws
Replies: 22
Views: 4999

Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

I believe the weight thing is kind of trivial... I've taken pre red point shits that weigh more that 6 draws (it's not like your carrying a full trad rack with you)... The extra move to hang the draw is what I believe makes a route (at or close to your red point limit) feel more difficult... 1. A b...
by Toy
Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:57 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws
Replies: 22
Views: 4999

Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Climbing on a 9.2 rope saves you about 3 grams per meter or about 0.1 Kg on a 100 ft route compared to a 9.5. A Petzl Spirit is almost 40 g so a full quickdraw costs ya about 100 g or the same as you save with skinny rope. Ondra ain't climbing on a 9.5 or 10.1 rope for his critical red point burn on...
by Toy
Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:57 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws
Replies: 22
Views: 4999

Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Trick question! Good one Art
by Toy
Mon Aug 25, 2014 1:33 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Fly'n Brian
Replies: 6
Views: 2521

Re: Fly'n Brian

He did have routes in the Red. Plugged some holes on the Undertow Wall (though uncredited) and I believe some of the old routes at The Crossroads were his. Climbed with him several times in the Red. One of the coolest was working the top of BOHICA with him before BR got the FA.
by Toy
Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:08 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Summer shade
Replies: 15
Views: 3305

Re: Summer shade

All 3 have good rests, including the knee bar you mentioned, before the final resistance. And all are really good. I suggest getting on the one that looks best when you see them. You won't be disappointed.