Search found 2239 matches

by 512OW
Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:44 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Replies: 84
Views: 9975

Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six

Green3 wrote: I have had maybe 12 RRG climbers tell me that they fervently agree.
Asking RRG climbers to grade anything that isn't steep and juggy usually isn't a good idea. Just sayin.
by 512OW
Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:43 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Replies: 84
Views: 9975

Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six

you are doing the crux wrong, I have watched a lot of people try the crux of iniquity and they are definitely making it harder than it needs to be. I'll keep that in mind. I'd like this magic beta in a month or two. If it involves reaching I'm going to punch you in the knee caps. :lol: The magic be...
by 512OW
Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:45 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Pull ups
Replies: 120
Views: 20062

Re: Pull ups

Dustonian, agreed. Completely. But the article that tutugirl copy/pasted was written by Thomas Fahey (I think thats the name) in the early 80's. Some of the added references (by Mike Boone) were from the mid 90's. None of the info is the latest, up to date thought... save those that stood the test o...
by 512OW
Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:10 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Supplements for recovery
Replies: 41
Views: 9135

Re: Supplements for recovery

climb2core wrote:Researchers discover honey is good for muscles. (Clinical Innovations).(Brief Article).
Interesting. The article I read about Olympic teams switching to chocolate milk also mentioned that they eat peanut butter/honey sandwiches, which I might eat too much of already.
by 512OW
Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:15 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Which Fingers
Replies: 21
Views: 3259

Re: Which Fingers

Of course it's beneficial. The stronger each individual finger is, the stronger your grip is. But how often are you failing because you can't hold the pockets? In the Red, the middle two are the most beneficial. I often find that training the last 3 is also beneficial in the Red. However, this isn't...
by 512OW
Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:10 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Replies: 84
Views: 9975

Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six

I re-did Iniquity after the break, and thought the start was easier than it was before.
by 512OW
Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:34 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Supplements for recovery
Replies: 41
Views: 9135

Re: Supplements for recovery

I used to use a Powerbar recovery drink that had close to the optimum Protein to Carbs ratio to speed recovery. After reading that US Olympic teams had switched to chocolate milk as their recovery drink of choice, I investigated and switched myself. Plain old (premade) chocolate milk has the best pr...
by 512OW
Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:30 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Video shows v1, fa claims v11
Replies: 8
Views: 1789

Re: Video shows v1, fa claims v11

Wow. Who's next? SCIN, are you faking it? Lurkist, did you ever really do Orange Juice? I NEED PROOF!
by 512OW
Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:40 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Replies: 42
Views: 6384

Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?

Yea, I agree on that one. In fact I don't even understand it when I see beginners doing laps up and down the wall like they're training for a project or a seasonal peak in endurance but their technique is terrible. I feel like that would just ingrain their bad technique even further. For sure... bu...
by 512OW
Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:24 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Replies: 42
Views: 6384

Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?

I wouldn't argue that it isn't a good training tool, but that isn't what this thread was about... I just don't think that it's the end all tool for beginners. In fact, If I were to train a beginner, and they had the choice over a treadwall or a climbing gym, I wouldn't even consider the treadwall. T...
by 512OW
Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:26 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Replies: 42
Views: 6384

Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?

Do you have a commission deal worked out with a treadwall company, Lurk? Do you find yourself skipping days at the Red in favor of the treadwall? :)
by 512OW
Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:59 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Replies: 42
Views: 6384

Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?

I could agree with that, though that makes it sound like a treadwall is the only way to gain endurance. I'd put my endurance up against anyone's at my climbing level, and I've never used a treadwall. Climbing for volume in a gym or outdoors will help with both. Not to mention, a large part of endura...
by 512OW
Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:06 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Replies: 42
Views: 6384

Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?

So, I stand by my advice of telling the rank amateur if there is a treadwall available and it is january, get into a three day a week habit of warm up, stretch, then 30-45 minutes broken up in to sets on a treadwall for several months. That person will be able to step outside and have much more suc...
by 512OW
Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:13 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Pull ups
Replies: 120
Views: 20062

Re: Pull ups

I can probably do pullups in the low 30's... though I haven't tried in ages to do max pullups. I climb in the mid 13's now. When I was a traddie, climbing low 12's, I could do 50 without issue, but I trained pullups all the time, trying to reach the goal of 100 pullups and 100 pushups in 10 minutes,...
by 512OW
Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:24 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Replies: 42
Views: 6384

Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?

What climb2core said. Lots of easy climbing will teach you the basic movement, balance, and strength necessary. Most importantly, have fun.

As far as weight loss goes, I gained 15 lbs over the 4 years I quit climbing. I lost it all just by climbing again regularly, with no other changes.