Search found 2239 matches

by 512OW
Fri Dec 24, 2010 12:23 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: best 6 weeks of the spring
Replies: 6
Views: 1294

Re: best 6 weeks of the spring

Last year, mid-March through the end of April were money. On March 14th, my first day out for the season, I did "Urban Voodoo", "Freakin Deacon", and repeated "Super Best Friends" and "Iniquity". On April 28th I did Cutthroat. In between were 7 other 13's, mostly b. Either that was just when I peake...
by 512OW
Thu Dec 23, 2010 7:45 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Hope its not true
Replies: 42
Views: 6260

Re: Hope its not true

Not that it matters, but I watched a professional female climber fall at the chains of B.O.H.I.C.A. after trying twice to clip and dropping the rope. On her 8a, she wrote "took the victory whip ;)".

To each their own, I suppose...
by 512OW
Wed Dec 22, 2010 7:17 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

Whatahutch, I'd say that you're mostly spot on... with the exception of enjoying training. I love it. So do so many people I talk to... some maybe too much. These people end up doing endless "training" exercises, and "sport specific" exercises, and spend so much time managing weight and counting cal...
by 512OW
Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:38 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

I was an elite nationally competitive gymnast back in the day. I remember telling my coach I wanted to take 1 week off after Nationals... he looked at me like I was high and said WTF... get your ass back in the gym, 3 days off at most. But I was 20 something then. So, there is no one right answer. ...
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:21 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Circus training for climbing
Replies: 19
Views: 3507

Re: Circus training for climbing

If that's not a circus crew, I don't know what is...
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 4:41 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Circus training for climbing
Replies: 19
Views: 3507

Re: Circus training for climbing

Talk to the slackliners.... I bet they'll know. Remember that guy from CT back in the day who went to stuntman school?
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 4:12 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

On my 26th birthday I got my first 12 on TR (Ro). I took a month off during the same time of the year I took off in 2008. I came back and had a hard time on 8s and 9s (note that I did not even touch plastic and came out to the Red) on my first day back. I'm confused. You went from 5.12 on TR, to ha...
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:21 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

Agreed that it promotes fitness, and when there is no climbing to be done, it can't harm your climbing. I just don't believe it is at all beneficial for that month off to train cardio, but stop climbing, when it is climbing you seek to improve at. Don't remember specifics on the studies... one was b...
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:10 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Best 12a in Muir
Replies: 19
Views: 2853

Re: Best 12a in Muir

Jesus Wept!
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 12:02 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

I agree with Lateralus and on a more physiological level, increased fitness means more nitric oxide (NO) output. NO relaxes the smooth muscles of your hollow organs such as your blood vessels and if that is relaxed, you get more blood flow. Cardio is a sure path to that - or you could just load on ...
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 11:56 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

Cardio is certainly not the most effective or efficient way to burn calories, or lose weight. It also isn't the end all to having a healthy heart. Some studies show that very little, as low as 3%, of running cardio transfers to biking cardio, and vice versa... so what percentage will transfer to spo...
by 512OW
Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:53 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

I agree with taking a month off of training or climbing hard... if you're a full time climber, constantly training or pushing it, or your body is breaking down. However, since I don't know a single climber who couldn't benefit from technique training on easy climbs, or 30 minute jug sessions on the ...
by 512OW
Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:35 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Anti-spray
Replies: 64
Views: 111281

Re: Anti-spray

I would say that Chainsaw is PE, for that level of climber.
by 512OW
Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:25 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Hope its not true
Replies: 42
Views: 6260

Re: Hope its not true

As I get older, peer recognition becomes less important and I find it strange what people do for it. I think that men who go to great accomplishments to get high-fives from their bros have severe self esteem issues and are slightly homosexual. I can't think of any other reason why someone would lie...
by 512OW
Thu Dec 16, 2010 5:18 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 136539

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

Here's a thought: Technique. You've admitted that some techniques are a weakness... so work on those. But lightly. Not enough to be a real physical workout... more of a learning, mental workout. After one week of the current power phase, I axed all sport specific exercises, in favor of focusing on "...