Search found 232 matches

by L K Day
Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:52 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Climbers from afar
Replies: 6
Views: 1616

Oh, there's more than a bit of rad in Colorado,.... but the common man isn't likely to know much about it, is he?
by L K Day
Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:47 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: 2nd anniversary
Replies: 8
Views: 1680

I only knew Mike through his Zspider persona on this site. I thought he was a lot of fun, and was shocked and saddened by his passing. We never know how long we'll have on this plain, do we?
by L K Day
Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:04 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad FA's
Replies: 85
Views: 12334

Naw man, not me. But I do have a cousin named Faye Day.
by L K Day
Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:13 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Is there any such thing as a comfortable hanging belay???
Replies: 20
Views: 4560

On shorter routes just fidget and move around, stand in your aiders if you have them. On day climbs I never found hanging belays uncomfortable enough to bother with a butt bag, though they easily fit in a back pocket. On big walls the haul bag can provide a very welcome stance and is much appreciated.
by L K Day
Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:42 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Rappeling
Replies: 28
Views: 5972

There is no one best way. The situation (number of "clients", one or multiple raps to the ground, large ledge, or tiny stance) determines the best approach. Sometimes it's best to belay from above, sometimes from below.
by L K Day
Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:03 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Rappeling
Replies: 28
Views: 5972

Like Michaelarmand said. You have the beginner completely set up and clipped in to their rappel rig before you clip in below them and rap. Then you give them a fireman's. Not all that complicated, really.
by L K Day
Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:56 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

I almost found a placement! Just having a 1,2, & 3 Friend, the 1 was too small, the 3 was too big and the 2 was just a two cammer (correction - it was a very shallow placement with the stem sticking straight out, wouldn't have held squat) but today's flexible stemmed unit might be OK. Couldn't find ...
by L K Day
Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:38 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

Krampus, "The Corner" - or pitch one of Tower of Power climbs the crack that starts off wide and tapers to hands from the ground to the ledge. When Greg Smith did this pitch he avoided the roof and escaped to the top by scrambling up easy terrain on the right. This last bit is the finish for the sce...
by L K Day
Sat Oct 24, 2009 3:17 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

If you just want a nice close look at the overhang, traverse over from Cavers'. You'll be passing right under Insanity Ceiling then under the big flake that marks the roof pitch of Tower of Power. Go up diagonally right to the top. It's an airy 5.easy traverse with nice scenery, and a secret alterna...
by L K Day
Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:39 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

krampus, ahab - Want the beta for Tower of Power?
by L K Day
Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:38 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

Good work guys! Thanks for sharing the photos, but you make my old test piece look kinda easy. Try to look a little more desperate next time if you don't mind. :)
by L K Day
Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:26 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

Now play nice. I haven't completely settled down, my complaint's are hardly full time, and I would hate to have missed the twenty years I've lived in Bozeman, where the skiing, hunting, fly fishing, horseback riding, hiking and dirt biking are world class, the kayaking and canoeing are spectacular a...
by L K Day
Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:12 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Time flies....
Replies: 30
Views: 5645

Time flies....

...when you're having fun. Jungle Beat, The Quest, Insanity Ceiling, Tower of Power, Wimp Out, and Gold Digger all turn 30 this month. It doesn't seem like so long ago, but damn, I look in the mirror and hardly recognize the old fart looking back at me. Have many fine adventures my friends, and enjo...
by L K Day
Mon Oct 05, 2009 3:35 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad FA's
Replies: 85
Views: 12334

I'm saying that, in the case of an FFA, if the second took tension from above, and even if that fact was honestly reported, the details tend to get lost to history. By the time the third or fourth guide book is written, it simply reads FFA - climbers X,Y & Z. Or even FA - climbers X, Y & Z. In the c...
by L K Day
Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:53 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad FA's
Replies: 85
Views: 12334

Of course there have been few if any universal agreements as to what constitutes traditional climbing style. Climbing is always changing, and what's traditional in one area may not be in another. Still, my collection of old guide books, dating from before the sport climbing era, support the argument...