Search found 232 matches

by L K Day
Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:51 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: best 5.8 multi pitch trad
Replies: 32
Views: 7701

Dicey at Best is a beautiful multi pitch 8. Wankers do the first pitch and bail, but it's good all the way to the top.
by L K Day
Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:12 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Do trad climbers have a lot of gear...
Replies: 33
Views: 6996

Real traddies sling their junk over the shoulder.
by L K Day
Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:33 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Does a "TRAD RULES" mentality = weakness?
Replies: 113
Views: 19366

Believe me, the face pitches that I've "protected with gear" in the Red were pretty cheap leads.
by L K Day
Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:25 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Does a "TRAD RULES" mentality = weakness?
Replies: 113
Views: 19366

Really? There are many face climbs in the Red that can be protected with gear? If that's true, and I'll trust you on that, you've come to exactly the wrong conclusion. Any face climbs that can be gear protected should never have been bolted in the first place.
by L K Day
Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:57 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Does a "TRAD RULES" mentality = weakness?
Replies: 113
Views: 19366

Dude! Why let clipping bolts get in the way of the pure movement of climbing. Just set up a permanent pulley system from the anchors so you can TR everything. Now that would be real climbing.
by L K Day
Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:39 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Does a "TRAD RULES" mentality = weakness?
Replies: 113
Views: 19366

Glad to hear that, cool lines. Today's traddies must be too modest to spray.
by L K Day
Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:05 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Does a "TRAD RULES" mentality = weakness?
Replies: 113
Views: 19366

Trad's rad = Can't climb 5.10 What y'all now call trad, we once called clean climbing. In fact, we were quite aware that what we were doing was anything but traditional. We saw ourselves as proponents of a radical new style - no pins, no bolts, and, to the best of our abilities, no trace. The first ...
by L K Day
Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:30 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The ongoing weekend idiot report
Replies: 647
Views: 110739

Somebody ought to kick the crap out of a few litterbugs. Maybe then the word would get out that climbers, ah, "encourage high standards" in the Red.
by L K Day
Sun Mar 22, 2009 2:57 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The ongoing weekend idiot report
Replies: 647
Views: 110739

I'd have been in the thick of things for sure. I used to dream about the big overhanging pocketed walls, but I knew that using 1/4" bolts was bullshit, and big fat bolts had not yet been introduced to the American climbing scene. I would have lobbied against grid bolting though, and there probably w...
by L K Day
Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:38 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The ongoing weekend idiot report
Replies: 647
Views: 110739

I remember a time when there were maybe eight to ten "regulars" active in the gorge. A time when almost every line was a potential first ascent, when there were hiking trails but no trails to the crags, no erosion, no cigarette butts, no wads of tape. Plenty of idiots, but no idiot climbers. The who...
by L K Day
Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:48 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Red Green!
Replies: 19
Views: 4908

Just took a look at the spray list of one of the chief tormentors of the poor downtrodden traddies. Tons of 10s, 11s, and quite a few 12s on lead - all sport. Hardest trad leads? Two little ol' 10s. 10a that is. Hmmm, looks like we can finally quantify it. 10a trad equals 12a-b sport. You know, just...
by L K Day
Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:27 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...
Replies: 213
Views: 33069

clif wrote:yeah....so i've been trying for months to read through this thread and just can't do it. was it explained why, if placing gear is no harder than clipping bolts, one would want to bolt cracks?

thanks.
No, it was not explained. Because they're being duplicitous. :lol:
by L K Day
Mon Feb 16, 2009 7:13 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Ohh this is going to be fun.
Replies: 27
Views: 7183

Some of the things I've seen from "brand name" manufacturers over the years. SLCs that could too easily lose their cams off the ends of the axels. Force limiting draws that caused caribiner failure. Locking carabiners that would become locked in a gate open position after having been carefully locke...
by L K Day
Sat Jan 24, 2009 5:04 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Blackburn and Bee Branch
Replies: 14
Views: 4212

Sorry, never been there.
by L K Day
Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:30 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9838

I pledge.... To promote the voice of the voiceless pussies of sport, and raise awareness of the toprope heroics of chickenshit traddies. Really, I do. Nahhh!