Search found 232 matches

by L K Day
Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:44 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9946

Your ignorance is showing there, smart ass, because you have no idea what Super Alpinism is. But go ahead, call sport climbing Super Duper Sport Climbing if you want to.
by L K Day
Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:42 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9946

Alpinism is the most traditional of all recreational climbing. Super Alpinism is just the current cutting edge.
by L K Day
Fri Jan 16, 2009 10:46 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9946

Climbers that are doing 5.12 grade VIs in the Karakorum crush at sport. They climb sport because they enjoy it, because it's a challenge in itself, and also because it's good training and a stepping stone to the really hard stuff. You can argue that a RRG sport climb is "just as hard" as grade six h...
by L K Day
Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:26 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9946

512OW - Where you're wrong is in assuming that the cutting edge super alpinist is not also a bad assed sporty. All his big wall, ice climbing, and high altitude experience is stacked on top of his ability to climb 5.13 when he's clipping bolts. Tomo Cesen comes to mind.
by L K Day
Fri Jan 16, 2009 3:51 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Any ice forming?
Replies: 130
Views: 23906

I take it that wasn't a real big year for ice.
by L K Day
Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:52 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9946

And to beat all, the super alpinist has to pull off his climb while mentally and physically debilitated by the lowest blood oxygen levels ever measured in living human beings. http://www.popularmechanics.com/science ... 98495.html
by L K Day
Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:26 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Skills, you need mad skills.
Replies: 47
Views: 9946

Skills, you need mad skills.

It's not about what's hardest, man, but what takes the greatest skills set. Technical skills. And in the great skills set continuum, with scrambels at the bottom, and high altitude big walls somewhere near the top, hard trad outranks hard sport, by fucking miles. Every time.
by L K Day
Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:57 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Any ice forming?
Replies: 130
Views: 23906

Problem is, it's very rare to have two solid weeks of really cold weather in the Gorge. Back in the '70s there was some pretty impressive ice, but modern tools didn't exist. What I get all weak in the knees about is the waterfall that comes off the big rockhouse up by Eagle Point Buttress. How high ...
by L K Day
Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:02 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...
Replies: 213
Views: 33334

Cool. And only eight pages to get there.
by L K Day
Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:28 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...
Replies: 213
Views: 33334

What? Are you saying "excuses make you weak"?
by L K Day
Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:13 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...
Replies: 213
Views: 33334

Trad is stll the real deal, while sport turns climbing into a pure game. I don't think anything will ever change that. For example, the experience of doing a hard alpine route onsight can't be replicated on a sport climb. Real climbing is not only harder, it's better. That said, you should be spendi...
by L K Day
Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:31 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Frenchburg Overhangs webbing
Replies: 12
Views: 3909

Don't really need a knife. To untie even a rock hard knot, just pound on it with any sort of hammer ( a rock will do) or stand on the knot and roll it under your shoe for a few seconds, it will soften up and untie easily. You can cut through any piece of webbing, in seconds, with another piece of we...
by L K Day
Fri Dec 26, 2008 9:58 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Gaia.... terrifying.
Replies: 28
Views: 6075

Climbers always confuse style with ethics. Guess that will never change, at least until there are no ethics and style doesn't matter.
by L K Day
Wed Dec 24, 2008 5:57 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Gaia.... terrifying.
Replies: 28
Views: 6075

It doesn't surprise me that Americans kick Limey ass. Still, I think the gritstone classics are cool as hell. Their time as any kind of cutting edge of bold cragging may be past, but that's OK. Some of the British climbers I've met, arrogant louts living on the dole, could stand a dose of humility.
by L K Day
Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:56 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Gaia.... terrifying.
Replies: 28
Views: 6075

Twenty years after the fact.