Search found 857 matches

by Ascentionist
Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:49 am
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: FS Road 9B status
Replies: 35
Views: 19399

Re: FS Road 9B status

The gate is located where the Dip Wall parking has always been. There is about as much parking as there was before and there are some semi-developed camping spots just beyond the gate. I would agree with it being about a mile further to Purple Valley.
by Ascentionist
Wed Jun 15, 2016 4:15 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Lowering on anchors.
Replies: 14
Views: 4237

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Moving rope under load with embedded sand can wear through steel. I saw a diagram on the forces of lowering from a two bolt anchor in different configurations versus rappelling. I don't remember the details but I can say that clinched it for me: when in doubt rappel. But you have to realize I am abo...
by Ascentionist
Mon Jan 25, 2016 1:15 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Life Insurance for Climbers
Replies: 19
Views: 4555

Re: Life Insurance for Climbers

I had health insurance that once specific my policy would be null if I didn't disclose a whole bunch of activities that I actually had a fondness for (and made me a healthier person!). However, when it came to rock climbing I was primarily a boulderer at the time and they specified "mountain climbin...
by Ascentionist
Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:57 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: belaying through both parts of your harness
Replies: 21
Views: 8630

Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

My first harness was a BD Bod. It had no belay loop. When I bought my next harness (a Misty Mtn I think) I avoided using the loop because 1) it seemed less strong, and 2) I wasn't used to the configuration. After seeing a belay loop tested at the MM shop I was sold on the strength of belay loops and...
by Ascentionist
Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:48 pm
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: FS Road 9B status
Replies: 35
Views: 19399

Re: FS Road 9B status

It's a fun ride/adventure. Not enough of those around.
by Ascentionist
Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:40 am
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: FS Road 9B status
Replies: 35
Views: 19399

Re: FS Road 9B status

I have an old child trailer I fold flat and put packs on, or I ride my cargo bike and stow my backpack in the cargo bags. Or you could go alpine and one climber ride with rope mountaineer coiled and one ride with rack. That's what Chuck Norris would do if he weren't soloing that day. Somewhere on 9b:
by Ascentionist
Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:37 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Unpublished route left of Horny Bitch
Replies: 4
Views: 4213

Re: Unpublished route left of Horny Bitch

Regardless, one of the two cracks does not show up in modern guidebooks. The left-facing dihedral looks like a more appealing line, but the gb descriptions seem to point to the ugly wide right-facing flake/dihedral thing.
by Ascentionist
Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:30 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Unpublished route left of Horny Bitch
Replies: 4
Views: 4213

Re: Unpublished route left of Horny Bitch

I'm pretty sure this is Route 52 below. The left facing dihedral pictured above is between the route in the photo below and HB. The guidebook description seems to be ambiguous. The left facing dihedral is about 60 ft left of HB but the photo below is a right facing crack. The other distinction is th...
by Ascentionist
Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:42 am
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: FS Road 9B status
Replies: 35
Views: 19399

Re: FS Road 9B status

Still closed and I'm still in favor of that gate staying there forever.
by Ascentionist
Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:40 am
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: Is this Shiner? Wildcat Wall
Replies: 1
Views: 1133

Re: Is this Shiner? Wildcat Wall

Guidebook says its right facing. I honestly can't remember what it looks like which is rare for me. I did Close To Being Tricky and decided not to do another single route there because the rock quality was so bad. Spinal Column looked scary bad. Its a great area, but nothing down there looks to be g...
by Ascentionist
Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:37 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Unpublished route left of Horny Bitch
Replies: 4
Views: 4213

Unpublished route left of Horny Bitch

Anyone know anything about the left facing arching dihedral left of HB at Fortress? Seems like in the cobwebs of memory there was a conversation about this long ago. Maybe even on KY Wilderness. It looks like thin hands to fingers. From the approach I could see faded tat at the end of the crack with...
by Ascentionist
Sat Dec 26, 2015 7:50 pm
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: Pebble Beach OW Right of Ju-Ju
Replies: 9
Views: 2651

Re: Pebble Beach OW Right of Ju-Ju

Its always just been an alternate start to Sundance. Reckon the FA was probably sportos in the late 80s.
by Ascentionist
Fri Dec 25, 2015 5:05 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Xmas Booty!
Replies: 0
Views: 1430

Xmas Booty!

In my whole life I'ge never had more than one piece of brand new gear. Santa Claus brought me a shiny new BD rack.

It's time to go Elvis up some cracks...
by Ascentionist
Thu Dec 03, 2015 8:43 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Looking for info on climbing in morehead
Replies: 1
Views: 1187

Re: Looking for info on climbing in morehead

John and Grant who own Roadside are Morehead guys. Shoot them a msg through the Graining Fork site. They can probably put you in touch with someone or help you out. Likely you met John (Haight) if you were at Clack. He lives near there.
by Ascentionist
Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:42 am
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: Driving from Motherload/Sore Heel to Solar/Gold Coast
Replies: 10
Views: 3062

Re: Driving from Motherload/Sore Heel to Solar/Gold Coast

My paternal grandfather worked in the Big Sinking area his whole life. He died in '89 ate up with cancer. I'm sure there's a connection. He used to knock around in a VW bug. That was his car of choice for work. He and his car always smelled of that goopy hand cleaner. My mom grew up in the oil field...