Search found 79 matches

by Day
Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:06 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Concept2 ERG
Replies: 15
Views: 7050

Good technique is certainly important. The training DVD that comes with the machine provides excellent instruction, so there's no reason to hurt your back. I'm more concerned about working up to high mileages too quickly and ending up with sore knees. Patience. Boring? So what aerobic exercise isn't...
by Day
Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:28 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Concept2 ERG
Replies: 15
Views: 7050

Concept2 ERG

I got a Concept2 rowing machine (ERG) about a week ago. It provides a killer good workout. I couldn't be happier with how things are going so far. For those of us that find it hard to schedule sufficient exercise time during the short days of winter it's extremely convenient to just roll out of bed,...
by Day
Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:16 am
Forum: Lost in the woods
Topic: Best hikes in the Red
Replies: 19
Views: 9799

I just called the DBNF office in Stanton. The fellow I spoke with conferred with a law enforcement ranger there in the office and said there were two ways for the public to access Tight Hollow. They said that one way was off of 715 - take Glencarren sp? road to a small gravel road on the right. The ...
by Day
Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:35 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: I am i new climbing, i need some help
Replies: 26
Views: 10428

Read a lot. Climb a lot. Get the technical side down cold. Don't cut yourself or your partner any slack on that point. When you try something and it seems impossibly difficult ( like you'd need to be 100% stronger) you're probably a lot closer to doing it than you think.
by Day
Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:57 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Cerro Standhardt reading
Replies: 9
Views: 5032

You're welcome.
by Day
Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:40 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Cerro Standhardt reading
Replies: 9
Views: 5032

gulliver - Bridwell, Smith & Smith climbed Cerro Standhard in Jan/Feb of 1988. I believe Bridwell's article on the first ascent appears in the 1989 issue of the AAJ on pages 57-65. Sorry, I don't have a copy. If you can't find it in a library, let me know.
by Day
Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:57 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Cerro Standhardt reading
Replies: 9
Views: 5032

I'd be surprised if there isn't a good article in the American Alpine Journal. Have you checked there?
by Day
Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:53 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Great Climbing Trips
Replies: 35
Views: 15976

ynp1 said - "Tom Evans is my hero and spirtual leader..."

Say what? There's a story here. Please share it with us.
by Day
Wed Feb 07, 2007 7:28 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Great Climbing Trips
Replies: 35
Views: 15976

Mazzystr, I met Tom in the spring of '77 in Yosemite. He was my main climbing partner for the couple of years that I lived in California. Then I moved to Colorado, and have only climbed with him once since. I haven't seen him since about '81 or '82. If you run across Tom, please say hello for me.
by Day
Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:37 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: How do you protect this?
Replies: 39
Views: 15571

The pin is (was) on Red Garden wall. It's been around twenty years ago, and I can't remember which route it was on. A related note, the park rangers started putting in a limited number of retro bolts on some of the scarier classics in the mid '80s. They had an understandable interest in making the r...
by Day
Fri Feb 02, 2007 4:25 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: How do you protect this?
Replies: 39
Views: 15571

That's not very efficient. But you've done a nice turn for the next party.
by Day
Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:49 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: How do you protect this?
Replies: 39
Views: 15571

Maybe I didn't describe my solution right, or give enough details. The crack is vertical. So the load will be more or less straight down through the eye of the pin. The only offset would be due to the pin flexing. Even if the wire is bent a bit the nut will slide back up over this spot. The orientat...
by Day
Tue Jan 23, 2007 2:34 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Mixed climbing wisdom
Replies: 77
Views: 23155

No, historically, cragging was trad climbing. Sport climbing is a relatively new style of cragging. Not sure what the confusion is about. Or, likely, I just don't get the joke.
by Day
Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:58 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Mixed climbing wisdom
Replies: 77
Views: 23155

OK, let's go back to the original post. "what is a mixed route, anyway?" In the larger world of climbing a "mixed" route means mixed rock and ice. That's all. In the Red River Gorge "mixed" is a protection note, as is "TR". "Mixed" means some gear and some bolts, "TR" means protected by top rope. Wh...
by Day
Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:47 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Mixed climbing wisdom
Replies: 77
Views: 23155

It can be 100% fixed gear and still be trad. Many Tuolumne and Joshua Tree classics are 100% bolt protected. These routes were established ground up, on lead, and are most definitely not sport climbs.