Search found 79 matches

by Day
Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:11 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Mixed climbing wisdom
Replies: 77
Views: 23038

There are probably no "mixed routes" in the Red. There are sport routes and trad routes. Some of the trad routes have some fixed gear. The use of the term "mixed" to designate a trad route with at least one bolt is a rather quaint local custom.
by Day
Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:33 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: An e-mail I just got sort of climbing related.
Replies: 9
Views: 3947

Wes, I suspected there was some artful framing going on. Still, looks like a stupid stunt. Once, coming back from Mountain Film with some friends,we stopped at a scenic overlook. Walking out to the edge, the ledge we were standing on formed a visor that hung out over a deep canyon. It literally jutt...
by Day
Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:37 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: po
Replies: 94
Views: 27536

It all comes down to the games climbers play. There are lots of them, all fun in different ways. Though I've soloed some, I never thought it made a lot of sense, fall just once, you're dead, game over. The game I think I most enjoyed was minimalism. In the early '80s quite a few Colorado climbers we...
by Day
Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:54 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: po
Replies: 94
Views: 27536

SCIN, Those must be "Sensitive New Age Traddies", not Traditional Traddies.
by Day
Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:13 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: po
Replies: 94
Views: 27536

OK, that's it, the true definition. End of discussion. The next person that dares offer a dissenting opinion is a weeney. Sez me.
by Day
Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:16 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: po
Replies: 94
Views: 27536

Not so much.
by Day
Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:57 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: po
Replies: 94
Views: 27536

Of course Pat was talking about traditional climbing, and I agree with what he said. When I lived in Colorado I met more than one self described "5.11 climber" that couldn't consistently lead 5.9. I'm no sporty, but I would have thought that if you had a bunch of 5.13s under your belt, even though y...
by Day
Sat Jan 13, 2007 3:45 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The passing of my good friend, Mason Allen.
Replies: 55
Views: 35845

Knowing how he died might help save the life of someone else. It is kind of important.
by Day
Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:49 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Charlie Fowler
Replies: 3
Views: 2039

Charlie Fowler

Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff have been missing for more than a month in China. MSN is reporting that the unidentified body of one of the climbers has been found. Both are presumed dead. This is terribly sad news. I didn't know Christine, but I knew Charlie. He always had a smile on his face,...
by Day
Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:40 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: with permission
Replies: 20
Views: 7957

It's this kind of stuff that lead me to realize that while a few of my best climbing experiences were with pick up partners, ALL OF MY WORST experiences were with same. It just isn't worth it. The first time I climbed in Eldorado Canyon, we were relative beginners, and felt like we were ready for th...
by Day
Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:29 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Todd Skinner
Replies: 81
Views: 24878

OK, Time for me to eat some crow. I've never been crazy about belay loops and still think they should a replaceable component. I've always been worried that some poor climber would push it too far, and that this is the kind of thing that would happen. That said...... This may be the first known fail...
by Day
Sat Oct 28, 2006 11:38 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Todd Skinner
Replies: 81
Views: 24878

Right. We certainly don't know how old the harness was, or what it looked like. My point is, that to Todd, it must have looked "safe enough". Maybe this is just a statistical error, one in a million, etc., but I've never liked the idea of belay loops, always thought they looked like a liability, and...
by Day
Sat Oct 28, 2006 9:31 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Todd Skinner
Replies: 81
Views: 24878

Kneebar, we really don't see this stuff very differently. As a climber I embraced technology. I was always trying to cut the weight of what I carried. Because of my tendency to be an early adopter, I often relied on gear that I am glad I never fell on. Unfortunately we usually learn about the shortc...
by Day
Fri Oct 27, 2006 6:51 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Todd Skinner
Replies: 81
Views: 24878

Exactly! Although I can't see what kind of a backup the belay loop would provide if the swami belt itself failed. In my opinion the belay loop's main function is to hold up the leg loops in front. Not something you really need. What I'm interested in knowing is if it was a webbing failure, or a stic...
by Day
Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:36 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Great Climbing Trips
Replies: 35
Views: 15901

Then there was the time Tom Evans and I went to Tuolumne for a month of climbing. Our transportation was my motorcycle. Of course we had a tent, sleeping bags, foam pads, ropes, gear, shoes, cameras, rain gear, sweaters, helmets and cooking gear. All on a GS 550. We climbed almost ever day, all mult...