Search found 795 matches

by Shamis
Wed May 09, 2012 12:45 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Advice to new climbers
Replies: 39
Views: 5787

Re: Advice to new climbers

Advice to All climbers. Weight test your anchor before going off belay. I see that a slice might hold momentarily. The other message is that redundancies should be real. :? Words to live by. Before transitioning between any 2 anchor points, I always make sure there is slack in my 'good' anchor, and...
by Shamis
Mon May 07, 2012 11:37 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Advice to new climbers
Replies: 39
Views: 5787

Re: Advice to new climbers

Wow
by Shamis
Mon May 07, 2012 2:41 pm
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: so bored
Replies: 4
Views: 784

Re: so bored

The diamond is definitely on my to do list. But I just booked my big climbing trip for the summer.
by Shamis
Fri May 04, 2012 9:32 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Don't you know that's why Roadside closed?
Replies: 19
Views: 2355

Re: Don't you know that's why Roadside closed?

I think this qualifies as one of the top 10 dumbest threads on this site. Good work.
by Shamis
Tue May 01, 2012 11:06 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14337

Re: Trad as a Fad?

you just have to walk up to a needles route with no old filled in bolt holes or other crap (yeah, aside from some chalk) to feel what's real climbing. Undoubtedly... probably the best climbing area in the US!! I feel bad for folks who haven't had that experience. Yeah, Atlantis is clearly no more d...
by Shamis
Mon Apr 30, 2012 4:01 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14337

Re: Trad as a Fad?

512OW wrote:Onsite solo some of the 11s in the Red, and I bet they feel just as hard as Twilight Zone.
That's a ridiculous statement.
by Shamis
Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:06 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14337

Re: Trad as a Fad?

This is how it breaks down... "hard core climbers" are ego maniacs. So of course, whatever they are into seems like the best thing in the world . Same reason your aforementioned Scin and Odub thought Trad was cool back then and Sport is great now..... because that is what they were/are into. P.s. I...
by Shamis
Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:19 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14337

Re: Trad as a Fad?

The purest form of climbing is a ground up first ascent of a climb on gear or solo. That will never change.
by Shamis
Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:53 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: setting tricams in "active" mode
Replies: 12
Views: 2185

Re: setting tricams in "active" mode

As long as you've got a long sling to reduce rope wiggle they are fine in vertical cracks.
by Shamis
Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:05 pm
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: May 2-8ish, 5.11b-512d, smaller girl.
Replies: 8
Views: 1003

Re: May 2-8ish, 5.11b-512d, smaller girl.

Surprised nobody asked the obvious question yet.
by Shamis
Wed Apr 18, 2012 2:30 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Joshua Tree
Replies: 20
Views: 2266

Re: Joshua Tree

Tahquitz was awesome, but I don't recall any bolts. Some pretty ballsy 5 star trad routes though.
by Shamis
Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:11 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Joshua Tree
Replies: 20
Views: 2266

Re: Joshua Tree

So much to do in j-tree, asking for beta is a bit open ended. Plenty of good trad and bouldering with a fair bit of sport too. I found the moderate bouldering to be pretty stout, and there are some really nice high balls, so if you do that sort of thing make sure you have a nice pad. The trad isn't ...
by Shamis
Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:00 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Ely, NV
Replies: 12
Views: 3177

Re: Ely, NV

Good 'ol Ely.

I drove to Ely from Ibex one night, and did an impromptu bar crawl with my bouldering buddy. It was pretty good times. The brothel was disappointing though.
by Shamis
Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:24 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Climbing Cost (of a day out)
Replies: 26
Views: 3289

Re: Climbing Cost (of a day out)

I seem to recall piggie giving me a rough time for having 3 passengers cough up 5 bucks each for a round trip to the red.

I always preferred having a semi-gay long term partner and just alternating who drives. Seems to avoid any awkwardness (except for the sexual tension).
by Shamis
Sat Mar 31, 2012 11:51 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: need advice
Replies: 11
Views: 1513

Re: need advice

Plenty of good moderate multi-pitch in Eldo.