Search found 795 matches

by Shamis
Fri Dec 16, 2011 3:28 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Tendinitis
Replies: 58
Views: 12019

Re: Tendinitis

Oh, I almost forgot. Never neglect to assess your work ergonomics when dealing with tendinitis. I really believe that poor ergonomics at work setup tightness in the muscles/tendons around the elbows which then quickly flares up into tendinitis when you go out climbing. All the more reason why you ne...
by Shamis
Fri Dec 16, 2011 3:24 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Tendinitis
Replies: 58
Views: 12019

Re: Tendinitis

As I mentioned in my original post, I think stretching the biceps is important. The number one trigger for me when I start to get tennis elbow is really tight biceps. I haven't found anything as telling for golf elbow. Ice/ibuprofen/rest days were the only solution I could find for that. Doing a few...
by Shamis
Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:35 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Tendinitis
Replies: 58
Views: 12019

Re: Tendinitis

1. Never boulder 2 days in a row. 2. never climb 2 days in a row if you're having issues. 3. do pushups to build opposing muscles. 4. stretch your bicepts. 5. warmup extensively. If your limit is 5.12 you should warm up on 10a/b then slowly progress to your limit. warming up on 11b isn't sufficient....
by Shamis
Sat Dec 03, 2011 6:18 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The ongoing weekend idiot report
Replies: 647
Views: 77384

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Some idiot showed up st my local crag today after noon...looking hungover. He proceeded to warm up on an 11 and get flash pumped. Then while cleaning the anchors he dropped the rope and had to be rescued by some other climbers at the crag...
by Shamis
Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:11 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Proof there is a God
Replies: 39
Views: 4764

Re: Proof there is a God

Nice job.
by Shamis
Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:05 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Wait. So the guy who's training tips you guys keep pushing on this site doesn't climb 5.14? Surely that destroys any argument that normal people can train their way there.
by Shamis
Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:11 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

I think the biggest issue for normal people is the amount of time it will take to get there. A naturally gifted climber might do 5.14 in his first 2-4 years of climbing. That is probably coupled with consistent workouts 3-4 times a week, 10-11 months out of the year. For the 'normal' people it proba...
by Shamis
Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:30 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

I did run into a chunky young chick at the gym the other day who was giving me pointers on the v8 I was attempting. She had the body of a milf porn star...so i guess anything is possible.
by Shamis
Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:09 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

I think 5.15+/ 5.16 will be all about endurance. People really aren't moves harder than v14...and i suspect the new harder grades will just be multiple v12-v14 moves stacked on top if each other.
by Shamis
Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:35 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

There will be tons of 14 climbers just like there are tons of pro basketball players...but I'm pretty confident that 5.14 will NEVER be the norm for devoted climbers with day jobs.
by Shamis
Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:05 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

I don't think you could claim that everyone can do 13 let alone 14. I know it'll take an immense amount of training for me to do 13.
by Shamis
Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:24 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?
Replies: 136
Views: 23516

Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Andrew wrote:I think you all underestimate the power of the mind. That is the biggest limiting factor, not genetics.
I think it's funny you believe the power of the mind is not related to genetics.
by Shamis
Mon Nov 28, 2011 2:14 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Taylor on the Tube...
Replies: 33
Views: 4686

Re: Taylor on the Tube...

Cool moves
by Shamis
Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:56 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: not just PDs...bolt standards?
Replies: 19
Views: 1847

Re: not just PDs...bolt standards?

Bolt more cracks.
by Shamis
Sat Nov 19, 2011 7:50 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Southern Smoke Direct
Replies: 36
Views: 133222

Re: Southern Smoke Direct

Awesome work adam!