Search found 795 matches

by Shamis
Tue Jun 05, 2007 12:43 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Belayed by a much lighter climber
Replies: 63
Views: 12972

Don't anchor if you don't have to. It dramatically increases the loads on the gear and the climber. Take a moderate fall low on the route/pitch and things will start failing. Do something different to reduce risks. Its very hard for even my fat ass to generate the kind of force needed to make anyth...
by Shamis
Tue Jun 05, 2007 11:48 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Belayed by a much lighter climber
Replies: 63
Views: 12972

To answer your original question, though, I don't think I would have let go, since everything tensed up and I was in the brake position, but perhaps since an ATC isn't auto-locking, the weight differential would've ripped the rope through the device and given me rope burn? I've never caught someone...
by Shamis
Tue Jun 05, 2007 11:22 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Belayed by a much lighter climber
Replies: 63
Views: 12972

Being a bigger guy (180) Lightweight :P Anchoring the belayer should be fine, but it removes a lot of elasticity from the system and can dramatically increase impact forces. Older harnesses usually had a loop in the back that would probably work for tying some kind of anchor into. I would think giv...
by Shamis
Tue Jun 05, 2007 10:14 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Belayed by a much lighter climber
Replies: 63
Views: 12972

90 pounds seems to be too much. Yasmeen needs to fatten up.
by Shamis
Tue Jun 05, 2007 10:04 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Belayed by a much lighter climber
Replies: 63
Views: 12972

Just let them belay. Its always fun passing your belayer on the way down...especially when you hit the ground and look up to see them screaming...
by Shamis
Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:07 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: cliff jumping ban- aka end of dws
Replies: 40
Views: 9838

I was nice of them to give us a list of lakes in the area that have cliffs...
by Shamis
Wed May 16, 2007 7:10 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Can You get Ahold of Pigsteak?
Replies: 4
Views: 1726

I certainly hope it wasn't to save that make-believe rock art.
by Shamis
Wed May 16, 2007 6:35 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Maple Canyon. Good?
Replies: 34
Views: 9019

I liked maple canyon. Didn't get on anything harder than 11 though. I don't remember loose rock, but this was 5 years ago. I'd guess the cobbles fall out on new routes.
by Shamis
Wed May 16, 2007 6:30 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: New Wall at Muir Valley - Midnight Surf
Replies: 24
Views: 6449

You forgot to thank Me and kris for testing all the holds with our fat asses before the real climbers came for the sends ;)
by Shamis
Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:05 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: going to font
Replies: 8
Views: 3549

There are font bouldering guides for sale in town. I think there's an outdoor equipment store in font, and there's also a tourist center of some sort that also sold guidebooks when I was there (they also rent bikes).

Study maps before you go, don't get lost like I did!
by Shamis
Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:52 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: ATC Guide or Reverso?
Replies: 42
Views: 13799

um...ME i don't know exactly what happened, either it was threaded backwards or the belayers hand got jammed in the device when i fell but i fell from the top of the gym to the ground, probably 30 feet. the only thing that saved me was the skin on my belayers hands, they were totally burned up. I'v...
by Shamis
Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:56 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Ro Shampo Training
Replies: 18
Views: 7007

The crux on ro is really just all about the heel hook placement in my opinion. But in order to send you have to have tons of endurance, especially if you're a big guy. I suggest finding some overhanging jug haul and running laps on it for training. Artificial or man-made should make no difference. J...
by Shamis
Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:53 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Mixed climbing wisdom
Replies: 77
Views: 19435

Is thas what you meant to say? So... if you get there first is what it comes down to. You run up to it, bolt and call it good. An 5.X climber, (who only uses bolts) can bolt a crack, (blasphemy, well maybe not) then that route is being done by someone who climbs at that grade with the gear THEY use...
by Shamis
Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:29 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Mixed climbing wisdom
Replies: 77
Views: 19435

I think mixed routes are typically put up by cheap route setters. Or avid trad climbers who don't like death. I love sport climbing, but if a route can be safely done on gear by a climber who normally climbs at that grade...then perhaps it should be left alone. I don't mind bolts, but the rock doesn...
by Shamis
Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:16 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: What happens?
Replies: 45
Views: 15684

stress, lack of sleep or fear can all cause a quick pump.