Search found 86 matches

by shear
Tue May 03, 2011 2:06 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: New river gorge must-do-classics?
Replies: 16
Views: 5978

Re: New river gorge must-do-classics?

Andrew wrote:Mango Tango
Super Mario.
by shear
Sun May 01, 2011 6:45 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: What to do on a rest day?
Replies: 15
Views: 2788

Re: What to do on a rest day?

I usually like to go running up in the gorge. Many good trails up there. Distillery tours are pretty rad too.
by shear
Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:39 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Attire
Replies: 64
Views: 10761

Re: Attire

Manpris' are only acceptable if you're from the following places:

Norway
Finland
Switzerland
Germany
Sweden
etc...


Anywhere else = not cool and most likely gay. I also predict an overload of locking carabiners and an atc on your harness too, even while climbing.
by shear
Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:39 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Maine climbing
Replies: 6
Views: 1221

Re: Maine climbing

Yep. They just fixed the whole crag with climbtech draws too.

http://mountainproject.com/v/maine/shagg_crag/105964909

...and if you're gonna trad climb in Acadia, you only need a single rack.
by shear
Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:31 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Maine climbing
Replies: 6
Views: 1221

Re: Maine climbing

I guided in Maine for a few summers. Acadia is pretty cool. Gorgeous. Great Head is amazing, all of the projects listed in the old guide have been done. there are a few fantastic long, steep bolted lines coming out of the main cavern. http://mountainproject.com/v/maine/acadia_national_park/great_hea...
by shear
Tue Apr 19, 2011 2:09 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Guides at Military today
Replies: 116
Views: 147937

Re: Guides at Military today

Give it a rest. Go to any crag on a sunny saturday in October and you'll experience the same thing. What's the difference? It was a busy day at the Military Wall.. Alert the presses! Get in line like everyone else. Turns out there is no other sport climbing mecca in this country with a larger amount...
by shear
Fri Apr 15, 2011 7:44 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: How best to Send?
Replies: 22
Views: 3988

Re: How best to Send?

I would much rather do it first try. Then you get to climb more routes. Yep. If the route looks easily readable (ala the red), then I'll usually go for it w/o beta...but will not hesitate to yell down if I get turned around. Otherwise...I'd much rather take the blow by blow beta and do it first go....
by shear
Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:29 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Work for routes
Replies: 26
Views: 3653

Re: Work for routes

Yeah, because finding a cliff, making sure it has no access issues and adequate parking, establishing a trail, bushwhacking to the top of the cliff and putting in anchors, clearing out the base of the cliff, and pruning any limbs that go near the route take no time at all. Sure, throwing in a few b...
by shear
Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:29 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Work for routes
Replies: 26
Views: 3653

Re: Work for routes

I can't compete in the volunteer hours for sure. But I bet a lot of people would make a donation to RRGCC for a raffle to get an FA. Just a thought.... I imagine it would take fewer work hours to just go out, find your own cliff (there are a few I hear in the Red these days) and bolt your own route...
by shear
Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:15 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Work for routes
Replies: 26
Views: 3653

Re: Work for routes

Andrew wrote:Good luck. I am trying to give away a route for free, and can't get any takers.
Your sister almost got on that route last weekend...but instead chose to prove to me, once and for all, that she does, indeed, hate Dogleg.
by shear
Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:05 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Beta for Bohica
Replies: 18
Views: 4137

Re: Beta for Bohica

...don't let the first move shut you down.
by shear
Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:27 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Top 10 Sport Routes at the Red- What's your list?
Replies: 136
Views: 46476

Re: Top 10 Sport Routes at the Red- What's your list?

Love these games:

in no real order:

Ultra Perm
Golden Boy
Dracula
Kaleidoscope
Check Your Grip
Mercy
Table
Cell Block Six
Flour Power
Nagypapa

I've by no means sent all of these...
by shear
Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:13 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sidepulls
Replies: 12
Views: 2501

Re: Sidepulls

so it's like an undercling then? the way you position yourself? is this a joke post?
by shear
Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:03 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sidepulls
Replies: 12
Views: 2501

Re: Sidepulls

ha...what? parallel to the ground? so you're horizontal when you use a side pull?
by shear
Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:25 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Perma Draws Deal from ClimbTech
Replies: 21
Views: 28025

Re: Perma Draws Deal from ClimbTech

What's the deal with these? Are they still around? If possible, I'd like to buy some off of you guys to put on Ultra Perm...as the draws on that route are horrible. Who should I get in touch with?