Search found 86 matches

by shear
Tue Dec 21, 2010 9:29 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Best 12a in Muir
Replies: 19
Views: 3057

Re: Best 12a in Muir

What's the story on Abiyoyo after the hueco? Something tells me it isn't easy 10 climbing after the hueco, ala Banshee, but goddamn I want to get on that rock. Sooo nice looking. If you want to get on it...then you should. That route is fantastic, 12a, 12b, 11d, 12c, whatever it is...it's really go...
by shear
Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:05 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Best 12a in Muir
Replies: 19
Views: 3057

Re: Best 12a in Muir

Galunlati, Super Best Friends, Mirage, Magnum Opus, Abiyoyo, and Summer Subshine...all about 12a imo and super bitchin. Ok maybe Mirage has a 12b move on it. Also, Cosmic Trigger is amazing, but that's 12b in my book. WOW, that sure was some elitist spray. So... for some beta that doesn't make you ...
by shear
Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:24 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Anti-spray
Replies: 64
Views: 111894

Re: Anti-spray

it's all about divergence from the mean difficulty (like a difficulty stdev). for instance, Chainsaw is 'resistant' inasmuch as the hardest move is about the same as the average difficulty. in a comments field it would go down as "no hard moves, but the pump was killer". a climb like Blood Bath, ho...
by shear
Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:21 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Anti-spray
Replies: 64
Views: 111894

Re: Anti-spray

Actually, I would not say that resistance and power endurance are the same thing....so therefore it is not, in fact, the cool way of saying power endurance. You can have a PE route that has rests in it. A pure resistance route does not have any rests (or a logical resting point). Even using the wor...
by shear
Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:43 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Anti-spray
Replies: 64
Views: 111894

Re: Anti-spray

Actually, I would not say that resistance and power endurance are the same thing....so therefore it is not, in fact, the cool way of saying power endurance. You can have a PE route that has rests in it. A pure resistance route does not have any rests (or a logical resting point). Even using the word...
by shear
Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:21 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Anti-spray
Replies: 64
Views: 111894

Re: Anti-spray

JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go. Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line. JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true. Kris: Specificity. Learned that lesson hard this yea...
by shear
Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:21 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Anti-spray
Replies: 64
Views: 111894

Re: Anti-spray

Got to with in one move of sending Golden Boy (at least in my head it was the last move I SHOULD have fallen on)...then left for a few weeks, only to come back and take 2 days to get back to one hanging it again. I'm hoping for a few days in the coming weeks to make the short drive up and give it so...
by shear
Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:29 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Developing at a wall being developed
Replies: 124
Views: 21041

Re: Developing at a wall being developed

Exactly...I didn't see anything from the actual parties involved initially...just some outlier needing to get involved for drama's sake.
by shear
Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:28 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Developing at a wall being developed
Replies: 124
Views: 21041

Re: Developing at a wall being developed

This is stupid. He apologized, and everyone is so quick to jump on the bandwagon and crucify the guy...give it a rest. I still don't understand why this had to be aired out on the internet...seems a little overly dramatic and poor form. Email is a pretty awesome thing...and more tactful.
by shear
Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:50 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Help the SCC win a $250,000 Grant!
Replies: 15
Views: 27175

Re: Help the SCC win a $250,000 Grant!

Also,

You can vote 3x a day. Once with your facebook acct (if you have one) and once with your pepsi refresh acct, just log in with one, then sign out and log in with the other. Then texting to vote. Easy.
by shear
Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:06 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Grid Bolting at the Red
Replies: 46
Views: 17751

Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Well, upon further investigation, seems the 'linkup' is a better start to a hard boulder-y route. I'll let this one slide.
by shear
Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:41 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Grid Bolting at the Red
Replies: 46
Views: 17751

Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

NICER is indeed a word.


...and linkups in the red are retarded. WTF is a 2 bolt link up doing at Drive by?
by shear
Wed Nov 17, 2010 6:30 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hardest sport route for the grade
Replies: 95
Views: 15550

Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Golden Boy is feeling pretty damn hard for it's grade.
by shear
Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:33 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen
Replies: 89
Views: 18200

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Mama Benson is all 5.11 to one move of V2. does not = hardest 12a in the red. Might as well call Abiyoyo the hardest 12b too then...
by shear
Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:38 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Congrats Dario!
Replies: 12
Views: 1933

Re: Congrats Dario!

I may be the only person who found that route to actually be hard.