Search found 286 matches

by chriss
Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:10 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Guides at Military today
Replies: 116
Views: 140702

Re: Guides at Military today

just as I thought it was our turn, two more from their group walked up and said that they were next (even though they had been at the other side of the Gallery up until that moment)--they were part of this group from Maine. Sounds as though you need to be more assertive. They are not next in line u...
by chriss
Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:17 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: I think Hugh left his gear up on Orange Juice!
Replies: 41
Views: 106051

Re: I think Hugh left his gear up on Orange Juice!

I also do not agree that it is common courtesy to replace that gear if you pull it. If you read the OP, we did put sacrificial biners up on the anchor. I don't keep a whole lot of extra gear, so I don't have stuff to leave. Just because I don't, doesn't mean I won't replace what looks bad. Continui...
by chriss
Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:43 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: I think Hugh left his gear up on Orange Juice!
Replies: 41
Views: 106051

Re: I think Hugh left his gear up on Orange Juice!

allah wrote:Seen way worse, and climbed on way worse and felt safe on way worse! If anything maybe you should have just replaced a biner or two.
Definitely looks like just 2 or 3 biners could have been swapped out. Did you replace the draws, or just remove them?
by chriss
Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:25 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: A first 5.13
Replies: 45
Views: 43777

Re: A first 5.13

Hey Phil, sounds like we have similar climbing styles. Good luck getting that first 13a. The 13a's that I found to be the easiest were hoofmaker and farewell to arms. FTA has a 10ish move v4 out the roof, followed by a good rest. Then 40-45ish feet of PE climbing. No stopper move, but no really easy...
by chriss
Wed Jan 26, 2011 12:53 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Replies: 84
Views: 6215

Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six

Sounds like Iniquity start is more like V5-6. I tried it for like 3 minutes at then end of a long day of climbing and then just pulled through the moves. But IMO I think Iniquity is deserving of 12c. Once I send it I will vote for that grade. I am not sure trying for 3 minutes at the end of the day...
by chriss
Mon Dec 20, 2010 12:54 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Recovery: What am I missing?
Replies: 107
Views: 130376

Re: Recovery: What am I missing?

I agree with Lateralus that cardio is very important. Not everyone is naturally fit - I assume ray and Kris are. It is hard to argue that being lighter and having a high level of cardiovascular fitness can hurt your climbing. It is a fine line though, to much cardio will hurt your recovery time. Whe...
by chriss
Wed Nov 17, 2010 3:45 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hardest sport route for the grade
Replies: 95
Views: 10183

Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

pumpout2004 wrote:Team Wilson!
Agreed!
by chriss
Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:11 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Replies: 22
Views: 2886

Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

toad857 wrote:
climb2core wrote:So, I need the easiest 13 in the Red ;)
try spank
Try Spank, hoofmaker, or farewell to arms.
by chriss
Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:57 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Miguels raising money for steel
Replies: 48
Views: 2713

Re: Miguels raising money for steel

pretty idiotic... ropes are only rated for a discrete number of factor 1 falls (or ONE factor 2), usually only 5 to 8 for typical sub-10mm sport climbing ropes. Ropes are rated on a finite number of factor 2 falls. They test them at the extreme end of the spectrum. As a sport climber this makes me ...
by chriss
Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:22 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Miguels raising money for steel
Replies: 48
Views: 2713

Re: Miguels raising money for steel

pretty idiotic... ropes are only rated for a discrete number of factor 1 falls (or ONE factor 2), usually only 5 to 8 for typical sub-10mm sport climbing ropes. Ropes are rated on a finite number of factor 2 falls. They test them at the extreme end of the spectrum. As a sport climber this makes me ...
by chriss
Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:10 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Brad, they are calling you out.
Replies: 47
Views: 5026

Re: Brad, they are calling you out.

Chris, Isn't this the route I caught you on right after it got opened? Didn't the original party rate it 12d? I remember you getting it 2nd go and thinking it was closer to easy 12 if Im thinking of the correct route. Yep that sounds about right. It sure took a lot of effort to put a toprope up and...
by chriss
Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:08 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Brad, they are calling you out.
Replies: 47
Views: 5026

Re: Brad, they are calling you out.

Chris, Which routes are you talking about? You haven't seen any cases of it removed from routes have you? I try to include whenever the FA is different than the equipper but I don't always know these things. Hopefully my comment didn't come off in the wrong way, just typing quickly before running o...
by chriss
Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:49 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Brad, they are calling you out.
Replies: 47
Views: 5026

Re: Brad, they are calling you out.

Is this the Africa route at sunnyside? If so, does the First Lead really matter? Just curious, as it has seen plenty of TR ascents. (Let the flaming begin as to what a FA truly is :)) To me a FA is fairly trivial compared to the person who bolted the line, at least at this level. I.e. had the vision...
by chriss
Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:40 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Missing some brain cells
Replies: 29
Views: 2706

Re: Missing some brain cells

Exactly. The chains should be placed high enough if you want to force a move. Sounds like they weren't placed high enough on Gold Rush since the draws can still be hung from the crimps. Exactly, if the bolter wants to force a move, raise the anchors. Probably harder to clip from the crimps instead ...
by chriss
Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:55 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Gyms near Pittsburgh
Replies: 12
Views: 3044

Re: Gyms near Pittsburgh

Its not the size of your bouldering, it's what you do with it. Yes, and http://www.theclimbingwall.net/ has totally missed that point. A ton of square footage, but barely a decent section of wall to climb with. 10 ft of 8 ft tall 40 degree, 10 feet of vertical, 2 feet of mini roof, ...., no clean, ...