Search found 1281 matches

by pawilkes
Sat Dec 24, 2011 5:36 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Climbing is no longer popular
Replies: 15
Views: 3571

Re: Climbing is no longer popular

The off season is great but totally intermitten. it's hard to commit to a multi-hour drive when the weather is questionable. much easier to look outside, see its sunny and drive an hour to awesomeness are you now promoting a visit to Utah for us all? I'll put you up whenever you want to come out he...
by pawilkes
Sat Dec 24, 2011 11:55 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Climbing is no longer popular
Replies: 15
Views: 3571

Re: Climbing is no longer popular

The off season is great but totally intermitten. it's hard to commit to a multi-hour drive when the weather is questionable. much easier to look outside, see its sunny and drive an hour to awesomeness
by pawilkes
Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:15 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Cold Weather 11's
Replies: 14
Views: 4156

Re: Cold Weather 11's

If you type two consecutive 1's in a post pawilkes gets notified by email. ;-) Torrent is a decent choice. If you Red Shift...well, is super hard but really fun. I don't think Highway Turtle and the other thing over there pretty good sun. I'm glad Kipp and crew bolted some new ones so that I don't ...
by pawilkes
Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:06 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Cold Weather 11's
Replies: 14
Views: 4156

Re: Cold Weather 11's

Torrent is a decent choice. If you get there early you can climb over by Seek the Truth and then roll over to the 11 wall in the afternoon. Indy Wall is really nice on sunny days as long as it's not dripping off the top, so just think about what the weather has been doing. The slabs on the far left ...
by pawilkes
Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:09 am
Forum: Classifieds
Topic: Lost Northface coat
Replies: 2
Views: 927

Re: Lost Northface coat

I'd check with Liz Weber if you haven't already. She does a pretty good job of keeping track of found stuff at Muir
by pawilkes
Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:26 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The ongoing weekend idiot report
Replies: 648
Views: 134499

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

no comment about the fraying wires on the cam and how they have no structural purpose, i'm a little disappointed
by pawilkes
Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:20 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: FRC Update
Replies: 33
Views: 5584

Re: FRC Update

great work Jeff. Just make sure the top is dry. the last holds tend to hold water and it is heart breaking to get all the way up there just to find wetness
by pawilkes
Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:54 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: @crossroads b4 boilerplate
Replies: 35
Views: 6806

Re: @crossroads b4 boilerplate

dustonian wrote:Better style would be to lead the crack on gear, chop the bolts, and put the hangers on something worthy.
if its that crack immediately next to Banjeloero it's lready been lead on gear by lazy folk who never went back to put in proper anchors.
by pawilkes
Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:15 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: The ongoing weekend idiot report
Replies: 648
Views: 134499

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

An idiot report from the west. I was at gumby magnet crag today (6 sport routes under 5.10 about a 2 minute hike from the road). We got there early to avoid the crowds but a group of four was already there. They had at least one competent person in their group although he did leave a draw mid-route ...
by pawilkes
Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:46 pm
Forum: Classifieds
Topic: For Sale: GriGri 2
Replies: 16
Views: 2724

Re: For Sale: GriGri 2

Sport Climbing Is Neither. ironic isn't it?
by pawilkes
Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:33 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: More dropped climbers
Replies: 53
Views: 11741

Re: More dropped climbers

Didn't the climber know you shouldn't fall until your belayer says he/she is ready? Please belay me with an ATC. Leave your fancy mechanical belay device home. are you an idiot? have you ever got extensive experience using a "fancy mechanical belay device"? any style belay device is only as good as...
by pawilkes
Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:00 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 8197

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

it does work in auto locking mode but like a ATC Guide or Reverso, not like a Clickup. That is why you clip the device into the anchor through a specific hole
by pawilkes
Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:00 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 8197

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

It's totally a preference thing. I have not used the device enough to be super comfortable with its functions. In the hands of experienced people I have no issues. An alpine version might motivate me to use one though
by pawilkes
Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:22 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 8197

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

I am not a huge fan of the click up, I mean it works well but I'd still rather have my grigri. The Alpine Up is pretty sweet though b/c it serves the functions of the ATC Guide and Grigri. I could see getting one if I didn't already have 10 belay device or if i could get a deal on it. Art, I think t...
by pawilkes
Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:31 pm
Forum: Hooking Up
Topic: Visiting from the UK in September
Replies: 18
Views: 3976

Re: Visiting from the UK in September

Miguel's rents out a couple rooms above the bathrooms, I think they're around $40/night. You should be able to meet people there although you might need to bribe them with beer and pizza to compensate them for the use of their rope and gear unless you can really turn on that british charm