What makes it classic?

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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby Andrew » Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:55 pm

graniteclimber wrote:It's a classic if you have to wait in line to climb it and it's covered in chalk. Everyone you know has climbed it or wants to climb it and the spray about it is insufferable. On a trad route, it's been buffed to a high gloss, not a speck of dust on it, and no adventure left to be seen. On a sport climb... well everyone knows there is no such thing as a classic sport climb. Just fun moves covered in a layer of chalk and man-slime.



You are not from around here are you. Even the chosspiles are covered in chalk and people spray about them... Same for trad
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby captain static » Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:32 pm

This thread needs to contain a poll.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby Meadows » Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:34 pm

pigsteak wrote:Speaking only about the Red, for you, how do you define a classic? Does it have to be at least ten years old? Is there such a thing as an instant classic?


Recalling this conversation we had on here some years ago (I think Ray started it), we tend to think of "classic" in the terms of age such as a classic car or classic rock. However, here are the definitions per Dictionary.com:

1. of the first or highest quality, class, or rank: a classic piece of work.

2. serving as a standard, model, or guide: the classic method of teaching arithmetic.

3. of or pertaining to Greek and Roman antiquity, especially with reference to literature and art.

Unless you are Greek or Roman, disregard any definitions of a classic climb in terms of age.

pigsteak wrote:Is it the perfect rock, perfect movement, or perfect view that makes it so? Does it have to have a "story" behind the Fa?


What does an FA story have to do with a route being classic? Don't most routes have stories? What if Stay Left at Military had a cool story? The only "classic" I would apply to it is a classic case of a choss pile.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby Meadows » Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:35 pm

Andrew wrote:can't be bolted by Kipp, unless it was first bolted by someone else and then rebolted by Kipp with extra bolts added


Like.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby graniteclimber » Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:17 pm

Andrew wrote:
graniteclimber wrote:It's a classic if you have to wait in line to climb it and it's covered in chalk. Everyone you know has climbed it or wants to climb it and the spray about it is insufferable. On a trad route, it's been buffed to a high gloss, not a speck of dust on it, and no adventure left to be seen. On a sport climb... well everyone knows there is no such thing as a classic sport climb. Just fun moves covered in a layer of chalk and man-slime.



You are not from around here are you. Even the chosspiles are covered in chalk and people spray about them... Same for trad


No, not from around there. I have visited a couple times and done a bunch of routes. I would say 90% of them were fun to very fun, but 0% were classic. The spray you've got there is so pervasive it is downright humid.

I usually love a good chalked up climb so I know where to put my feet and hands but good grief it's a bit much down there. I think the most interesting climb I did was Hakuna Matata.. mostly because it had almost zero chalk on it and required more than forearm fitness.

Still, you guys got a good thing going down there. Truth is I did most of the classics here years ago, and now find myself enjoying weird munge piles with foliage and actual friction. The only trick is convincing people to climb them with me.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby Andrew » Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:44 pm

graniteclimber wrote:
Andrew wrote:
graniteclimber wrote:It's a classic if you have to wait in line to climb it and it's covered in chalk. Everyone you know has climbed it or wants to climb it and the spray about it is insufferable. On a trad route, it's been buffed to a high gloss, not a speck of dust on it, and no adventure left to be seen. On a sport climb... well everyone knows there is no such thing as a classic sport climb. Just fun moves covered in a layer of chalk and man-slime.



You are not from around here are you. Even the chosspiles are covered in chalk and people spray about them... Same for trad


No, not from around there. I have visited a couple times and done a bunch of routes. I would say 90% of them were fun to very fun, but 0% were classic. The spray you've got there is so pervasive it is downright humid.

.

Speaking of spray... you are good at it. Subtle, but good.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby climb2core » Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:56 pm

graniteclimber wrote:No, not from around there. I have visited a couple times and done a bunch of routes. I would say 90% of them were fun to very fun, but 0% were classic. The spray you've got there is so pervasive it is downright humid.

I usually love a good chalked up climb so I know where to put my feet and hands but good grief it's a bit much down there. I think the most interesting climb I did was Hakuna Matata.. mostly because it had almost zero chalk on it and required more than forearm fitness.

Still, you guys got a good thing going down there. Truth is I did most of the classics here years ago, and now find myself enjoying weird munge piles with foliage and actual friction. The only trick is convincing people to climb them with me.



Andrew wrote:Speaking of spray... you are good at it. Subtle, but good.



Hakuna was good, but I felt that Soul Ram was a much more fulfilling and classic send.






(Ok, I didn't send SR. But I just practicing spray for when I can. Need to be more subtle?)
Last edited by climb2core on Thu Jul 19, 2012 2:03 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby dustonian » Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:58 pm

There are dozens of face climbs in the Red at least as good as Hakuna and Soul Ram.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby pumpout2004 » Thu Jul 19, 2012 2:53 pm

I think Andrew and Graniteclimber are going to go find some dank, forgotten climb (like altar boy's dilemma) to felate one another under.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby graniteclimber » Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:24 am

pumpout2004 wrote:I think Andrew and Graniteclimber are going to go find some dank, forgotten climb (like altar boy's dilemma) to felate one another under.


I am always looking for someone to do that with.

Thanks for the kind words, and accepting a mention of Hakuna Matata as spray. I didn't think it would fly as a mere one two minus in this land of 135lb sport men.

I sort of wish I had tried more of your techy vert stuff... but I climb that shit all the time out here. It does seem to be highly regarded in the Red though? All Things Considered got 4 or 5 stars in the guidebook? What comedians you fellows are!
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby dustonian » Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:38 am

Do you enjoy spraying because part of the stream hits you in your own face, is that it?
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby bcombs » Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:43 am

If you didn't like All Things Considered you're doing it wrong. :lol:
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby dustonian » Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:53 am

People who climb mostly granite have dimunitive Johnsons, so they only like big, long routes like those on El Capitan as a form of compensation.
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby graniteclimber » Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:59 am

bcombs wrote:If you didn't like All Things Considered you're doing it wrong. :lol:


I liked it... but 5 stars? Really?
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Re: What makes it classic?

Postby graniteclimber » Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:01 pm

dustonian wrote:People who climb mostly granite have dimunitive Johnsons, so they only like big, long routes like those on El Capitan as a form of compensation.


I don't do many routes... going more than 3 pitches is so much fucking work. Or there's just too much 5.9 up there. It does make my johnson look bigger though.
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