The ongoing weekend idiot report

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pigsteak
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by pigsteak » Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:41 am

Shamis wrote:Some idiot showed up st my local crag today after noon...looking hungover. He proceeded to warm up on an 11 and get flash pumped. Then while cleaning the anchors he dropped the rope and had to be rescued by some other climbers at the crag...
anyone we know...let's hope he doesn't come on our site and spray about safety issues like proper use of a gri gri....
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climb2core
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by climb2core » Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:04 am

You know, I was taught to just pull and bite the rope when untying. Old bad habits die hard... Keep wondering if one day I will be perching at the anchors. I think most of my climbing partners would make sure I had a couple hours to enjoy the view and contemplate my gum ball ways...

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by tbwilsonky » Sun Dec 04, 2011 6:55 pm

Shamis wrote:Some idiot showed up at my local crag today after noon...looking hungover. He proceeded to warm up on an 11 and get flash pumped. Then while cleaning the anchors he dropped the rope and had to be rescued by some other climbers at the crag...
to be fair, i was REALLY hungover.... and high.

sorry.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Clevis Hitch » Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:02 pm

nice...
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by ynp1 » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:04 pm

I was just looking at the newest R&I and in the Accident section, page 22. They talk about the decking at the dark side. One of the prevention tips is, "On really dicey clips situated close to the ground, you can always use double-rope technique. The belayer can give slack for the clip on one rope while keeping the slack out of the rope through the lower piece...".

Does or has anybody ever done this!!! I can see how it would work, but wow!
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by rockman » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:09 pm

Of course. That it typical double rope technique. But I think stitch plate devices are banned from the Dark Side. Only Jedis and some ewoks can use them.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Saxman » Wed Dec 07, 2011 10:45 pm

Found it interesting the description didn't quite match multiple eyewitness accounts.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by stix » Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:40 am

i watched the accident at the darkside and this account was inaccurate in a number of ways.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Josephine » Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:36 am

stix wrote:i watched the accident at the darkside and this account was inaccurate in a number of ways.
i hope you write a letter to the editor then.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by cinciclimber2 » Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:45 am

climb2core wrote:When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.
My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Andrew » Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:35 am

cinciclimber2 wrote:
climb2core wrote:When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.
My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.

Are you sure this is the local ethic?
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by camhead » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:16 am

cinciclimber2 wrote:
climb2core wrote:When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.
My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.
Actually, even rapping off of fixed anchors wears them down minutely, which adds up over time at a heavy-use area like the RRG. The local ethic is moving towards the last climber getting to the anchor, unclipping both draws, and throwing himself to the talus 100 feet below. This puts almost no wear on the anchors. You should try it sometime.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Andrew » Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:05 am

camhead wrote:
cinciclimber2 wrote:
climb2core wrote:When you down climb, you would do the reverse of leading. Start by taking your gear of anchors, then down climb to the draw below, un-clip and remove that draw, and so on until you are on the ground. It is no more dangerous than leading climbing up.
My point exactly. Apparently a lot of people aren't aware either that its frowned upon in the red to lower directly through fixed anchors. It wears them our much quicker than rapping off them.
Actually, even rapping off of fixed anchors wears them down minutely, which adds up over time at a heavy-use area like the RRG. The local ethic is moving towards the last climber getting to the anchor, unclipping both draws, and throwing himself to the talus 100 feet below. This puts almost no wear on the anchors. You should try it sometime.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by ReachHigh » Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:18 am

Andrew wrote:
camhead wrote:
Actually, even rapping off of fixed anchors wears them down minutely, which adds up over time at a heavy-use area like the RRG. The local ethic is moving towards the last climber getting to the anchor, unclipping both draws, and throwing himself to the talus 100 feet below. This puts almost no wear on the anchors. You should try it sometime.
Correct
wrong, doing so would leave pre hung gear. you must solo then deck, or have a member of your party remove the draws then deck at the end of the day.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by stix » Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:45 am

i was contacted by R&I for info before the writeup was put out but returned the call too late. the climber and belayer know they chuffed hard and their quotes are just trying to save a little face. if they or anyone else who feels they need to not chuff so hard they can call RRO and hire me as a guide. i don't care to donate any more of my time to dumbass climbers for free. maybe once march rolls around i'll care enough to write R&I and explain how the belayer didn't take an inch of rope through the device and all the other details. until then i'm on vacation from chuff and get to enjoy the next few months of my life without climbers falling out of the sky, spraying about falling out of the sky, tattling on one another by writing petzl big wigs, complaining about their trips getting ruined, writing local business owners about shit that doesn't concern them, people from the other side of the mississippi telling me how to go about my climbing in my backyard, bitches getting world wide acclaim for onsighting a route that she had beta sprayed to her the whole way for, "do you know who I am?" bullshit, colored tick marks, sucker punches, manufacturing chossy routes, the absurd notion of a global consenus, fucksticks doing backflips off of easy rider and getting their head smashed in (that's a new one their....would love to see them put a positive slant on that bit of stupidity), arguing over who owns what piece of which cliff and where...

once you know the basics, staying off the deck is largely common sense. you either have the self preservation urge or not. reading a write up about a dude falling with clipping slack out at the 2nd isn't gonna change shit. if you can't figure out that if you fall at the 2nd on many routes at the red you may hit the ground then you'll get what's coming
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