The ongoing weekend idiot report

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milspecmark
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by milspecmark » Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:57 pm

I left it there for 20 min.

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tutugirl
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by tutugirl » Mon Oct 22, 2012 1:07 pm

They must not know the outcomes of "Karma equipment" ...
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Redpoint » Sat Mar 16, 2013 12:13 am

A guy starts up 27 years of climbing and can't clip the first bolt so he jumps down. I offer a stickclip and he refuses, so I at least pointed out the clipping jug to him. He makes it to the second bolt and takes(an hour earlier I watched a 100 year old lady (well she at least moved as fast as a 100 year old) get to at least the fifth before she took). I'm talking to my friend and he points and says "what the hell". A spectator had run over to the girl belaying on 27 years of climbing and I hear him explain to her to never take her hand off the brake side of the rope. She says that her belay device is stuck and won't feed out any slack so that the leader can continue climbing. The guy helping is getting more paranoid by the second and grabs the brake end of the rope next to her as a backup while she tries to get her belay device unstuck. He then teaches her how to belay so that her guide and brake hand is on the rope at all times. She finally sort of gets the hang of it (I say sort of because there was plenty of short roping going on due to her short bursts of 1 inch of rope at a time) and the guy helping leaves. So what kind of belay device was it that was so hard for her to feed slack... an atc. I had to go, but I will always wonder: which one of them knew how to clean.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Syphur » Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:37 am

I had a grigri lock up on me once. So tight I was afraid the handle was going to snap off when I tried to open it. Weighed 210 at the time but it was a self belay on TR so wasn't even much of a fall.

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by KD » Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:08 am

Sometimes new belayers and spotters cant hear when people are on the ground spewing lots and lots and lots of beta. All the extreanous information and unsolicited beta from mentally retarted bystanders who spew all the time and never shut up, overloads the brain and then devices seem to not work properly. Especially when individuals continue to spew lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of beta all the time and wont shut up with the beta and then nobody can concentrate.

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Redpoint » Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:42 pm

The first time he tried to clip the first bolt, it was off of a 2 finger pocket instead of the jug to his right. He jumped down on top of a large, wet, mossy slab of rock, and I don't know how he didn't get hurt. Hey at least my beta got you up that V0 (with the slopey topout) you were having so much trouble with, you said you liked it then : )
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by KD » Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:00 pm

Dude note the plural useage everything aint about you

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Cromper » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:15 am

Saw some boner get dropped off the third bolt of Reliquary on Sunday. Climber was 'okay' and got right back up and wanted to climb again with the same belayer.

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clif
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by clif » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:32 am

pigsteak may need intervention. he is posting with some regularity in the online guide and i fear for his dignity. please help him if you can.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by monty4355 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:11 am

Watched a climber scream at his belayer about 5 times yelling for slack as his belayer just stood there talking to people on the ground. Finally I, belaying the route next to him, told the dumb ass to look up. All his friends on the ground thought it was hilarious.

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by EricDorsey » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:21 am

Watched a climber go in direct to the second bolt on a 50ft 5.9 so that his friends could swap out who was belaying.

The weird part is the new belayer proceeds to eat peanut butter out of a jar with a spoon the entire time while belaying. And the original belayer just stands back and watches the guy climb... Not sure what the point of switching was.

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by lena_chita » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:40 am

Not really, and "idiot" report, but I thought it was funny.

A climber on a 10a at Johnny's wall is hanging on the draw and complaining that she doesn't know where to go next.

Her belayer says, go for the tickmark.

She responds with: but I don't know what that tickmark MEANS. I see it, but what kind of hold is it? What if it isn't GOOD?

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by powen01 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:31 pm

We really need to start rating tickmarks.

(eyeroll)

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by lena_chita » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:56 pm

powen01 wrote:We really need to start rating tickmarks.

(eyeroll)
I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.

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clif
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by clif » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:02 pm

we must act to bring this full circle and put a stop to it. only when the costs of this type of thinking is greater than the benefit of having a complete lack of imagination, adventure, and courage will climbing be safe again.

for everyone involved, punch the person in the face if this happens again.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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