The ongoing weekend idiot report

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Postby L Day » Mon Mar 23, 2009 5:34 pm

It was fucked by '81 :lol:
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Postby flip » Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:30 pm

A very experience climber letting their non-climber friend climb a route with out his harness doubled back. Worst part was before they left the ground I asked if the harness was on right and they both said yes.
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Postby ditzywonder » Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:15 pm

haha, had to do it but i heard about someone (not a gumby) cleaning a route and they dropped the rope. fortunatly it was through gear and the belayer set up an auto belay and just had to lead out the last section, but still......had to laugh at that one.........


sorry.......won't mention names but i had to do it :D:D
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Postby 512OW » Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:16 pm

L K Day wrote:I'd have been in the thick of things for sure. I used to dream about the big overhanging pocketed walls, but I knew that using 1/4" bolts was bullshit, and big fat bolts had not yet been introduced to the American climbing scene. I would have lobbied against grid bolting though, and there probably would have been some fights over all the trash at the base of crags. I had a pretty hot temper back in the day.


Frankly, I see the most trash at mostly trad crags. They're the ones more easily accessed by idiots...
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Postby L K Day » Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:30 pm

Somebody ought to kick the crap out of a few litterbugs. Maybe then the word would get out that climbers, ah, "encourage high standards" in the Red.
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Postby gunslnga » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:21 am

I tell people to poilice they're shit up all the time when I'm there. I pack out at least a bag of someone else's garbage every time I can. Most of those types have zero back bone, if you use some verbal attitude adjustment techniques, they fall in line and clean up the AO(area of operation) every time. This is bullshit, I read these all the time and at'least 5 or 6 people hit on the answer and then nobody act's on it. I do not abdicate violence, however, L K is partially right, somebody has to put the idea that this will not be tolerated into there minds. All the fliers, signs, good vibes, etc, etc will not accomplish anything! Remember when Christian went off at Miguels, that scared the shit out of quite a few of the rookie onlookers who will now not come back to Miguels or the Gorge. It was talked about for ever on here, that is what works. A huge show of force that scares the shit out of the meek and mild and sets a chain of events in play by word of mouth.
Word of mouth is your best weapon in the Gorge, it's how you will win the hearts and minds of the shitbirds who wreck it for the rest of us. If that does'nt work, we can always Militarize the wildlife.... I'm half serious, half playing on here, but at heart you know I'm partially right......
The enemy of my enemy is my friend.....
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Postby elcapitan1974 » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:32 am

The sport o yuppie fags must be trashing the sport crags. We only go trad and rarely see garbage at those crags. At the bottom of Chimney or Half Moon has always been a dump. Most traddies say "its lighter going out than it is going in", so pack you shit out where ever you go. Take you trash back to the slum cities you come from. Obud your bringing all the trash to the trad crags, empty your douche bag buddy, it getting funky!
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Postby SCIN » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:25 pm

elcapitan1974 wrote:The sport o yuppie fags must be trashing the sport crags. We only go trad and rarely see garbage at those crags. At the bottom of Chimney or Half Moon has always been a dump. Most traddies say "its lighter going out than it is going in", so pack you shit out where ever you go. Take you trash back to the slum cities you come from. Obud your bringing all the trash to the trad crags, empty your douche bag buddy, it getting funky!


So are you saying that I'm a littering yuppie fag because I climb sport? What is a traddie anyway?
Last edited by SCIN on Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby bcombs » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:37 pm

A traddie is the person standing behind the main character in each of these idiot reports rooting them on so he/she can top rope the ultra hard AWOL.
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Postby pigsteak » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:56 pm

SCIN wrote:
elcapitan1974 wrote:The sport o yuppie fags must be trashing the sport crags. We only go trad and rarely see garbage at those crags. At the bottom of Chimney or Half Moon has always been a dump. Most traddies say "its lighter going out than it is going in", so pack you shit out where ever you go. Take you trash back to the slum cities you come from. Obud your bringing all the trash to the trad crags, empty your douche bag buddy, it getting funky!


So are you saying that I'm a littering yuppie fag because I climb sport? What is a traddie anyway?


I've seen your wardrobe...you ain't no yuppie.
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Postby krampus » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:57 pm

Hey now, AWOL is hard.....if your drunk and its 2am
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Postby L Day » Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:29 pm

Gunslnga - Of course what I said was half in jest. I don't really want to see it come to violence. But climbers that care about the place need to lean on those who don't, and let them know they will pay a price if they don't clean up their act. Like you said, word gets around.
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Postby Shamis » Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:54 pm

Large tri-cams with a sling attached make pretty nice weapons. Just sayin.
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Postby elcapitan1974 » Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:21 pm

pigsteak wrote:
SCIN wrote:
elcapitan1974 wrote:The sport o yuppie fags must be trashing the sport crags. We only go trad and rarely see garbage at those crags. At the bottom of Chimney or Half Moon has always been a dump. Most traddies say "its lighter going out than it is going in", so pack you shit out where ever you go. Take you trash back to the slum cities you come from. Obud your bringing all the trash to the trad crags, empty your douche bag buddy, it getting funky!


So are you saying that I'm a littering yuppie fag because I climb sport? What is a traddie anyway?


I've seen your wardrobe...you ain't no yuppie.


No, I'm saying you guys want to bash trad climbers, but it seems to me their not the problem. The problem is the young yuppie gym rats that have no respect for others and are playing around waiting for mommy and daddy to clean up after them. The trad crags seem to get less traffic which leads to less trash. All the trash talking about trad climbers is filling up this joint. As I remember, you and your buddy where strong avacates of trad climbing, what happened? Did the ego of putting out rap cds and a guide book get to your heads. Most people I climb with, loved your book and we enjoy it do to the fact it caters to traddies, for the most part. ( 1st edition). So when I get on here, main for the online guide, it pisses me off to here the trad guro's are sell outs! Bolting cracks , thats really going to bring the trash to the "trad crags"! Most backwoods people use NO TRACE ethics, so preach to your young yuppie disciples and maybe your sporting experience will be more priestine!
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Postby elcapitan1974 » Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:25 pm

bcombs wrote:A traddie is the person standing behind the main character in each of these idiot reports rooting them on so he/she can top rope the ultra hard AWOL.

Wasn't Awol a gear route at one time? You dont see "grid bolting " at the "trad crags". Bolts are considered trash in many places of the gorge and the country!
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