The ongoing weekend idiot report

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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby climb2core » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:07 pm

The gumby move is climbing at Johnny wall ;)
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby clif » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:48 pm

i can't believe i'm advocating violence on the internet. rubicon anyone?
training is for people who care, i have a job.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby lena_chita » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:08 pm

climb2core wrote:The gumby move is climbing at Johnny wall ;)


I wasn't climbing, It was my rest day. I belayed a friend and walked around in between belaying, offering a stick-clip to people who were about to break ankles.

There were a bunch of people who idolized you at that wall though... you should have told then that climbing at Johnny's wall was not O.K., and they would have listened, because they totally hang on to your every word. I have heard a lot about mighty Ian in couple hours that i was there. I heard you can climb, gasp, 5.12!!!!!! no kidding, really!! :D oh, and also, apparently you wouldn't take when people ask for a take, because you are tough that way.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby der uber » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:35 pm

lena_chita wrote:
powen01 wrote:We really need to start rating tickmarks.

(eyeroll)


I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.


Wow that sounds like a lot of work. I hope you are just kidding about that, unless Super Safe deems it a good idea.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby jordancolburn » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:48 pm

lena_chita wrote:I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.

Can we just replace all tickmarks with colored tape?
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby dustonian » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:58 pm

lena_chita wrote:I have heard a lot about mighty Ian in couple hours that i was there. I heard you can climb, gasp, 5.12!!!!!! no kidding, really!! :D


debatable...
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby climb2core » Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:31 pm

lena_chita wrote:
climb2core wrote:The gumby move is climbing at Johnny wall ;)


I wasn't climbing, It was my rest day. I belayed a friend and walked around in between belaying, offering a stick-clip to people who were about to break ankles.

There were a bunch of people who idolized you at that wall though... you should have told then that climbing at Johnny's wall was not O.K., and they would have listened, because they totally hang on to your every word. I have heard a lot about mighty Ian in couple hours that i was there. I heard you can climb, gasp, 5.12!!!!!! no kidding, really!! :D oh, and also, apparently you wouldn't take when people ask for a take, because you are tough that way.


LMAO. That would be Amir. He is a goofy guy, but one of the nicest people you will ever meet. When you made your original post I cringed... I had a sinking suspicion that would be my gumby gang LOL. Your observations reveals the true sad state of the climbing scene in Columbus. I introduced them to this crazy new thing while climbing we do called "falling".

BTW, glad you are ok.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby lena_chita » Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:42 pm

jordancolburn wrote:
lena_chita wrote:I am thinking that every tickmark should have a note attached, explaining whether this is supposed to be a jug or a crimp, whether it is meant to be used as a gaston, sidepull or undercling, and which hand should go there. Oh, and also, instead of a tickmark the holds should be labeled with brackets, showing the best part on the hold to grab, painted in nail polish-type compound, to avoid accidentally erasing them.

Can we just replace all tickmarks with colored tape?


Not unless you have figured out a way to make it stick well, for at least as long as the bolts are expected to last. If you only need to retape once every 10 years or so, maybe during rebolting, that could work. Otherwise...

Who is going to walk around and maintain all the tape on all the routes? Unless climb2core volunteers?
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby dustonian » Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:49 pm

I've noticed that blue chalk is rather hard to clean off...
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby climb2core » Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:53 pm

lena_chita wrote:Who is going to walk around and maintain all the tape on all the routes? Unless climb2core volunteers?


That was my next initiative after the fixed gear thing. The Red River Gorge Tape Inspection Troop. aka RRG TIT
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby lena_chita » Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:20 pm

climb2core wrote:LMAO. That would be Amir. He is a goofy guy, but one of the nicest people you will ever meet. When you made your original post I cringed... I had a sinking suspicion that would be my gumby gang LOL. Your observations reveals the true sad state of the climbing scene in Columbus. I introduced them to this crazy new thing while climbing we do called "falling".

BTW, glad you are ok.


Thanks.

Yes, they seemed like nice people. But they didn't think much of your falling idea.

I didn't realize how many people would actually be at those walls on a spring weekend. My friend was able to climb everything he wanted without waiting, because he pulled the "it is just me, I'll be quick" card, while at the same time offering to set up topropes for people, or hang their draws. But there have been people there who had showed up in the morning, same time we did, and by the time we were leaving, around 4-4:30p.m., had only climbed ONE route.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby climb2core » Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:32 pm

Normally that crew is like locusts... the swarm in and take over the wall. ;)
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby Savage » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:03 pm

Cromper wrote:Saw some boner get dropped off the third bolt of Reliquary on Sunday. Climber was 'okay' and got right back up and wanted to climb again with the same belayer.


When did this happen? I was there on sunday but I bolted mid-day. No one was on Reliquary yet, just Tissue and gung ho.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby whoneedsfeet » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:04 pm

it was around three or four before we bolted for the day.
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Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Postby Savage » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:09 pm

were you the ohio crew (friends with Paul) that were on gung ho earlier?
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