Potential First Ascent on Phantasia Wall

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JohnBenningfield
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Potential First Ascent on Phantasia Wall

Post by JohnBenningfield » Sat Jul 18, 2009 10:02 am

To the left of Lord of the Flies before you go around the corner to Overlord, there is a 45 ft. left pointing flake. This crack starts with two hand sized cracks that lead up into an off width. Chicken wing up the crack. Climb out onto the face where the flake leans left overhead. Finish on the ledge, and rap off the same anchors as Overlord.

This is about a 5.7. I would give it a PG rating because of the loose rocks and breaking holds.

This climb was not in the book I have, and the party climbing next to my wife and I could not find it in their literature either.

If this crack is already named, please let me know; otherwise, I want to name it "Look Out Alex Super Tramp" because of the 10 lb rock that came out of the crack and almost hit my dog.

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Post by Josephine » Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:46 am

i thought forest service land was not open for new development.
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Post by captain static » Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:17 pm

To the Forest Service "development" means leaving any fixed gear: bolts, bolted anchors, fixed slings, fixed pro and clearing of vegetation or trail building. As long as none of that is involved, no prior approval is required. Also, since this is an existing crag, the Forest Service has already looked to see if there are any cultural or biological resources that could be impacted by climbing. If this was a new crag it might be a different story.
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Re: Potential First Ascent on Phantasia Wall

Post by Wes » Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:02 pm

JohnBenningfield wrote:To the left of Lord of the Flies before you go around the corner to Overlord, there is a 45 ft. left pointing flake. This crack starts with two hand sized cracks that lead up into an off width. Chicken wing up the crack. Climb out onto the face where the flake leans left overhead. Finish on the ledge, and rap off the same anchors as Overlord.

This is about a 5.7. I would give it a PG rating because of the loose rocks and breaking holds.

This climb was not in the book I have, and the party climbing next to my wife and I could not find it in their literature either.

If this crack is already named, please let me know; otherwise, I want to name it "Look Out Alex Super Tramp" because of the 10 lb rock that came out of the crack and almost hit my dog.
Heh, it is always funny to see "FA's" of easy cracks at established crags. Pretty sure that thing has been done more then a few times, just too nasty to bother with a guidebook entry.
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Post by schwagpad » Sat Jul 18, 2009 4:37 pm

Maybe so, Wes, but if it's the first confirmed ascent....maybe we should give it to Mr. Benningfield.

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Post by KD » Sat Jul 18, 2009 5:51 pm

He's jealous he didnt get. I know he's been training for it for years. :)

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Post by Wes » Sat Jul 18, 2009 5:59 pm

Hmm, maybe so I guess. Everyone should have their name in the guidebook at least once, right?
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Post by KD » Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:11 pm

lol im jus f'ing with ya

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Post by Xtant » Sat Jul 18, 2009 8:11 pm

Sounds like what we dubbed "So Hormonal," last year. Myself, Ditzy and Patrick. I'll let Ditzy tell that story if she'd like.

Patrick was gonna contact Ray about that route, but I don't know if he ever did...
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Post by p0bray01 » Sat Jul 18, 2009 10:15 pm

Yeah I forgot about that one...and I don't know if I would call it a 7....more like a 5 or 6.
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Post by hamsco » Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:40 am

Ask Jessie (aka ynot). He mentions it in a post in the online guide for " You Got Served", in 2006
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Post by Crankmas » Mon Jul 20, 2009 11:32 am

comment.

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Post by Mazz » Mon Jul 20, 2009 12:53 pm

I don't know when the thing was first sent, but there were some really, really old rap anchors up there when I bolted Overlord.
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Post by Ascentionist » Mon Jul 20, 2009 7:15 pm

This thing was climbed many years ago and has been reported as an FA by a lot of people. Get over it and go find another route to name.
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Post by ynot » Tue Jul 21, 2009 9:53 pm

Hamsco turned it in. Should be in the online guide as You Got Served. Ascentionist is right. I climbed it a couple times myself.
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