Sport lines in wilderness areas

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Wes
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Sport lines in wilderness areas

Post by Wes » Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:50 pm

This is kinda an expansion to the funk rock thread:
captain static wrote:
I personally think us climbers as a community need to pursue how we can maintain the fixed anchors in Clifty in a manner that meets or exceeds the ideals of the Wilderness Act.
This is a conversation we climbers need to have. While these routes were bolted with power drills, the area wasn't part of the cliffty wilderness then. But, to maintain those routes today, would mean hand drilling. FRC is the main area with sport routes, but the anchors at Tower, Eagle point, Wall of Denail, the small walls, and maybe a couple more would be effected.

If we are going to keep these routes reasonably safe, and follow the law, then we need to think about hand drilling, or about stripping some of them.

And, if we decide to try to keep them safe with hand drills, we need to use hardware that will last the longest, even if it means more work with the hammer and drill.

I, personally, am not super psyched about hand drilling, but if we can get 15 or 20 people to commit to doing one route, we can probably get it taken care of. It isn't rocket science...
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caribe
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Post by caribe » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:30 pm

|| posted this before I saw your post, I think we are on the same page now Wes ||
This might be one of those situations in which many hand drills make light work. The RRGCC might think about organizing a trail day in which legions of climbers are armed with hand drills and we go en mass to FRC with the worst bolts on the most popular routes as our targets.

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bcombs
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Post by bcombs » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:36 pm

Maybe we can get a donation of a dozen or so hand drills from Petzl.

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Post by Meadows » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:53 pm

Stainless would be best. Or, how about popping the bolt and re-using the hole with a glue-in?

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Post by RRO » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:57 pm

1 person could easily do a route in a day with a hand drill. count me in and name the day.
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff » Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:05 am

As Ive always said - I'm in.
It just needs to get organized.
Hand Drill donations would be great.
I agree with stainless. Glue-ins would be great, but the fact that people might stop using bail 'biners and start lowering directly off of glue-ins and wearing them out should be considered.

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Post by pawilkes » Tue Dec 01, 2009 7:21 am

I don't have a hand drill and I've never drilled a bolt hole but I'd be up for giving a few days to this effort. I know a bolt popped on Campfire Crank at Wall of Denial last year, not on a fall just pulled out.
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Post by Gregory » Tue Dec 01, 2009 8:34 am

Count me in too. Just need a date and a hand drill.

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Post by ahab » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:18 am

i heart FRC.

i'll donate:
a) time/effort
b) cash
c) all of the above

whatever is needed most. just give me a date.
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Post by krampus » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:25 am

I may bail on my trad partners but don't usually bail on work. I'm in, sounds like a great idea.
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caribe
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Post by caribe » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:39 am

I don't own a hand drill, but I am going to buy one before the week is out. This sounds like a great plan. I have visions of the Amish coming over the hill in that scene in the movie Witness (1985, Harrison Ford, Kelly McGillis (HOT), Danny Glover).

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Post by Wes » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:52 am

I don't think that you can reuse the current holes - those stud bolts are hard to get out without trashing the rock. But, I think big, fat glue in rebar type stock is the way to go, if possible. I have no experience with that kinda stuff though.

You can still hang quicklinks off them at the anchors, to keep wear on the bolt down.

Guessing about half the routes at frc need new gear this year, the rest will need it as time goes on, but some routes have OK hardware now. Guess "someone" should get a list of what needs it, then start getting people to adopt a route. Wouldn't have to all get done in a weekend - then you could just pass a hand drill on for someone the next weekend.
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Post by quicksilver » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:09 am

Checking with Eric Ulner (Drapers Bluff) might be a good way to go on glue ins. The ones he has placed at Drapers and Jackson Falls are huge and look like they would last forever. I personally have not noticed any degredation of them in the last 15 years. He is definitely an expert at how to install them and what materials work best. Just a thought.

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Post by Meadows » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:09 am

Do we have hand drills within the community that we know of? People could solicit for the use here and on FB.

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Post by camhead » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:15 am

Hey Wes,

Right on for pushing something like that; it would be cool to fix up the routes at FRC in a style completely within wilderness area guidelines.

I would definitely be for taking a day or two and coming down from Columbus to help out.

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