Gound Fall at Drive By Poll

Access, Rehab Projects, Derbyfests and more...

Whose fault?

Climber
19
37%
Belayer
4
8%
Both
17
33%
Other
12
23%
 
Total votes: 52

ND Clee
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:52 pm

Post by ND Clee » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:49 pm

Here, let me solve this for you. 100% MY FAULT. That would be me, the climber who fell, accepted responsibility that it was MY hand slipping off the hold while I went to clip the rope into the draw I hung, which subsequently led to my decking, et. al.

That said, there's nothing like well-informed speculation by people who witnessed via message board.

Once again, I thank all those who were present at the time who may or may not have seen what actually happened but certainly were privy to the aftermath. Without you, I really shudder to think what might have happened. I wish you all the very best.

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:06 pm

way to ruin another good rant ND Clee.....if it matters at all, I voted "both"...

seriously. accidents and mistakes happen, and I, for one, am very glad you escaped serious injury...
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

User avatar
clif
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 5:24 pm

Post by clif » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:34 pm

ND Clee-i'm not sure you'll be checking back at this site, but do you have any advice for climber's who want to avoid your situation and still lead climb?

User avatar
cliftongifford
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 650
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Omnipresent
Contact:

Post by cliftongifford » Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:25 am

both...
and this scenerio could've been any one of us. shit happens all the time. how many times when you're climbing you think to yourself, "fuck, i hope i don't fall right here!" knowing that if you did you'd get hurt? she just happened to fall at that moment... we've all experienced that moment a thousand times, we've just been lucky enough to not slip at that exact time. i'm glad to see the climber and belayer are both ok and learned from the experience. hindsight is 20/20, something always could've been done differently to change the outcome of any event, from 9/11 and the oil spill to this particular incident. unless bush and obama really are to blame, if that's the case........

User avatar
climb2core
Loser
Loser
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 12:04 pm

Post by climb2core » Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:24 am

It is Joe's fault :P

User avatar
krampus
Snake Charmer
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:31 am
Location: avoiding leaves
Contact:

Post by krampus » Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:35 am

ND Clee, clifton said it best when he said it could happen to any one of us. It can and does. Don't take any of these rants personal. We just needed something to get fired up about. The people actually involved are unimportant so long as we can argue ad nauseum about nothing. I hope you stay with us and enjoy the fun.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

Meadows
Puppy Pimp
Posts: 5425
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:03 pm
Location: Singing in the sunshine - laughing in the rain

Post by Meadows » Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:39 am

ND Clee - I'm really appreciating you. You sound like an awesome gal.

JR
Official Route Quality and Grade Accuracy Analyst
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 2:18 pm

Post by JR » Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:59 am

ND Clee wrote:Here, let me solve this for you. 100% MY FAULT. That would be me, the climber who fell, accepted responsibility that it was MY hand slipping off the hold while I went to clip the rope into the draw I hung, which subsequently led to my decking, et. al.
Got it.

User avatar
bcombs
Generic Jerry
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 12:20 pm
Location: Cincy

Post by bcombs » Tue Jun 08, 2010 12:39 pm

It's my fault. I was having an astral projection conversation with Pigsteak about the Money thread and disrupted the balance of the force, which rippled through the PMRP as I was hanging on a rope at the lode. Noticed I said hanging, not climbing.

The ripple caused Drive By to bend slightly which threw off ND Clee's balance. This is also the reason she landed away from the wall. The bend was at least 6 feet, which makes total sense to me now.

What sucks is that the bend opened a temporary portal where two crew members on the Zirulian ship slipped through into our dimension. I'm sure by now they are trying to siphon the oil from the wells on the PMRP because on Kordalla there is no more fossil fuel of any kind. This is mostly due to the invention of the Kordallian H2 which got .0025 miles to the gallon. However, it did stand 46 feet tall.

bonner1040
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 5:42 pm
Location: Cleveland Ohio

High First Bolts.

Post by bonner1040 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:13 am

Placing the first bolt higher is done with the intention of it being it stick clipped and greatly reduces the possibility of groundfall from the second bolt in many different cases.

(If the first bolt is at 10 feet and the second is anywhere from 12-15 feet you still risk a groundfall with slack and the dynamic nature of a belay. If the first bolt is 15-20 feet and the second is anywhere form 20-25 that risk is far less)

To abandon modern bolting principles, ie high first bolts, because some climbers dont come with stickclips is ridiculous... Just like trad gear is required to lead unbolted routes and cracks a stick clip is quickly becoming a necessary piece of safety equipment. You wouldn't try to climb a given route without a harness or a rope, why would you do it without adequate protection from groundfall?

If routes are developed with low first bolts by the time you get to the second bolt you are back in groundfall territory again so the safety of that first bolt is negated anyway.

I dont feel bad for the climbers that cannot repel because the only belay device they have is a grigri and i think, in my honest opinion, that a stick clip is an essential piece of equipment for the everyday sportclimber, just like an ATC, harness, rope and draws.

Added to that the fact that you can use a stickclip to: aid up routes, protect otherwise unprotected areas, retrieve gear from the wall in the event you have to bail and many other things in addition to the fact that they are cheap as all hell and it seems like a simple decision.

Bottom line is:

If you dont feel comfortable with the level of difficulty or safety you shouldnt do it.

If you dont have/want a stickclip, and cant use a tree limb or other readily available, free materials then take a pass on that given route for the day.

Lastly I truly hope all effected parties, climber, belayer, and onlookers are doing well and moving forward. (also i am sorry that i even voted on this poll topic, i thought it was something else entirely.)

Have Fun, Climb Safe
-Nick Bonner-

User avatar
clif
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 5:24 pm

Post by clif » Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:09 pm

if anything in bonner1040's post is news you need to seek professional help.

User avatar
Rotarypwr345704
I said I'd donate $100 to the RRGCC, and nobody posted in the MF thread after I said that
Posts: 393
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:27 pm

Post by Rotarypwr345704 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:12 pm

BCombs. That shits hilarious. Now excuse me while I go clear my nose of whiskey.
I fell for the everyone-shut-up-and-ill-donate-money scheme. -Ray Ellington, guidebook gawd

My name is Sam Douglass and I love to pose for photo shoots holding on to a jug with only one hand (and no feet!) with my best friend Ian.

User avatar
krampus
Snake Charmer
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:31 am
Location: avoiding leaves
Contact:

Post by krampus » Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:10 pm

clif wrote:if anything in bonner1040's post is news you need to seek professional help.
Like that of redpoint
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

User avatar
Clevis Hitch
My Name is Joe.
Posts: 1461
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:10 pm

Re: High First Bolts.

Post by Clevis Hitch » Fri Jun 11, 2010 12:45 am

bonner1040 wrote:blah blah blah, i'm a tool, blah blah blah
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!

JR
Official Route Quality and Grade Accuracy Analyst
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 2:18 pm

Post by JR » Fri Jun 11, 2010 8:38 am

Wow! What a mouthful Bonner!

I can only agree with the first and last line. As for the body of your post, thank god you don't actually get to lay down any of its dogma.

Post Reply