Openings

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clif
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Openings

Post by clif » Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:31 pm

hey, i was wondering if someone could familiarize me with the current (rrgcc?) strategy for getting crags reopened. i guess there are some differences, the southern region walls oil crack. arena..., roadside-waiting for recovery? -couple of years? pocket-state park-any hope?

or is there consolidated agreement that acquisition is the way forward? thanks-
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pawilkes
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Re: Openings

Post by pawilkes » Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:44 pm

I'm pretty sure Pocket Wall is a lost hope.
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clif
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Re: Openings

Post by clif » Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:51 pm

i'm a carpetbagging muckracker obviously, but has anyone actually talked with state park officials about why the hardline? you have state land designated for hunting, so it's not really a danger issue, is the machine really so rigid and unservicable?
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Re: Openings

Post by ynp1 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:37 pm

Yes.
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Re: Openings

Post by pawilkes » Fri Jan 20, 2012 12:08 am

the land was purchased and then given to the state with the specific term that climbing would not be allowed. I've also heard that the state doesn't allow stipulations like that on donations but climbing isn't allowed on state park land anyhow so its a mute point anyhow. first you would have to get climbing legalized on state land and then you'd have to go after that specific area.
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Re: Openings

Post by KD » Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:20 am

I can't recall any crags that have been closed or temporarily closed to have been reopened. So I guess the strategy is not very effective: Pocket wall, Military, Dip Wall, Oil Crack, Arena, Roadside ....

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ynp1
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Re: Openings

Post by ynp1 » Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:27 am

KD, what are you talking about. Are you being sarcastic? If so your list is kind of odd. Pocket wall closed forever, dip wall... I didn't know it was ever closed. Oil and arena are still closed and so is roadside.

Am I missing something?
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Re: Openings

Post by toad857 » Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:45 am

clif wrote:hey, i was wondering if someone could familiarize me with the current (rrgcc?) strategy for getting crags reopened.
I think the only reasonable strategy is to go find new crags & not make the same mistakes with them.

Or, buy the land outright & continue making mistakes--but without the threat of closure.

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Re: Openings

Post by Meadows » Fri Jan 20, 2012 12:18 pm

Pocket Wall is now part of a nature preserve ... I doubt the laws allowing climbing on nature preserves will change anytime soon.

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Re: Openings

Post by dustonian » Fri Jan 20, 2012 10:21 pm

clif wrote:hey, i was wondering if someone could familiarize me with the current (rrgcc?) strategy for getting crags reopened. i guess there are some differences, the southern region walls oil crack. arena..., roadside-waiting for recovery? -couple of years? pocket-state park-any hope?

or is there consolidated agreement that acquisition is the way forward? thanks-
You should get in touch with Rick, Bill, Paul, Shannon, or Josephine (among others) if you are motivated and enthusiastic to work on these issues & can bring some ideas or resources to the table. It is a volunteer organization and I know they can always use the help!

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Re: Openings

Post by KD » Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:00 pm

ynp1 wrote:KD, what are you talking about. Are you being sarcastic? If so your list is kind of odd. Pocket wall closed forever, dip wall... I didn't know it was ever closed. Oil and arena are still closed and so is roadside.

Am I missing something?
No I'm not being sarcastic, I'm pointing out that once a crag in the dbnf has been temporarily or forever closed - that I have never seen them reopen. For all practical purposes, there seems to be no distinction between a temporary and a permanant closure. I am also stating that when it has come to reopening closed crags, the coalition hasn't been very effective. Also, Dip has at least three closed routes to my best recollection. So to sum, the list isn't really odd, its just a list of the crags that have been closed and never reopened.

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Re: Openings

Post by captain static » Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:13 pm

The RRGCC strategy is realy quite simple. We regularly communicate with the owners of those closed crags. In those communications we leave all options open. We also solicit input and advice from the Access Fund. We are optimistic that with patience and perserverence this strategy will pay off with some areas being re-opened in the near future. I should point out that the RRGCC measures its' success by the number of open climbs. By this measure, I don't thnk the overall success of our advocacy can be disputed.

Yes, Pocket Wall area is part of Natural Bridge State Park Nature Preserve. Rock climbing is not permitted in a State Nature Preserve. For more information on State Nature Preserves visit - http://naturepreserves.ky.gov/naturepre ... erves.aspx

We do, however, communicate and work with the State. Our $50,000 grant for the mountain bike trail is from the state.

BTW, Bentley and I are in SLC right now at the Outdoor Retailer show. Bentley is working on sponorships for this year's Rocktoberfest where we will celebrate paying off the PMRP mortgage. I am exploring industry grant opportunities, networking, and meeting with the Access Fund.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

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Re: Openings

Post by KD » Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:21 pm

captain static wrote:The RRGCC strategy is realy quite simple. We regularly communicate with the owners of those closed crags....I should point out that the RRGCC measures its' success by the number of open climbs. By this measure, I don't thnk the overall success of our advocacy can be disputed....
I am not stating that any one else would have done a better job regarding getting closed resources reopened - but this an area of growth for the coalition as to date closed crags have remained closed. Regarding keeping them open - this is an area of success without dispute, however the thread was concerning reopening closed crags - an area of negotiation that needs improvement.

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clif
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Re: Openings

Post by clif » Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:23 pm

Thank you Bill.

Dustin, you're hopeless, but thanks.
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Re: Openings

Post by dustonian » Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:37 pm

clif wrote:Thank you Bill.

Dustin, you're hopeless, but thanks.
I don't consider it "hopeless" to suggest an avenue for contributing, rather than idly mewling on the internet.

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