guidebooks for utah climbing

Access, Rehab Projects, Derbyfests and more...
THB
Official Nerd Notes Expert
Official Nerd Notes Expert
Posts: 273
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:26 am
Location: Lexington, KY

guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by THB » Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:35 pm

I'm taking a trip this summer to hit up some classic areas in Colorado, Utah, and maybe up to Wyoming. I've got 4-6 weeks. I'm looking for guidebooks for American Fork Canyon and for Mill Creek Canyon. All I've found are 3 books:

1) Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range (Falcon Guides by Stuart Ruckman)
2) Rock Climbing Utah (Falcon Guides by Stewart Green)
3) Climbers Guide to American Fork Canyon/Rock Canyon (Regional Rock Climbing Series by Stuart and Bret Ruckman)

I'm curious about beta of any other books for either American Fork or Mill Creek that I haven't listed. And I'm curious about which of the 3 guidebooks that I've listed here are best for the 2 areas that I'm interested in visiting. I primarily want to sport climb. I've already been to Indian Creek and a few other trad areas in UT, so this trip I really want to focus on sport climbing areas. I don't want guidebooks that focus on trad climbs.

Any beta would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Todd

EricDorsey
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:52 pm

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by EricDorsey » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:24 pm

I have used the first two and the Rock Climbing Utah one covers too big of an area and is really to vague for any one particular area. I remember rock climbing the wasatch range had a majority of the routes in American Fork.

I would post this question on the Utah Region section at mountainproject.com, you will get a much better response as there are probably not to many Utah climbers around these parts...

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:37 pm

No guidebook for Mill Creek and asking about it in Moab will score you some serious disdain. I guess they don't like to pimp out their good bolted weenie climbing like we do here. there is good info at mountain project and a few other sites though, and if the guy working at the climbing shop isn't a douche he will give you directions. Killer climbing!!

You guys would dig Namaste wall up in Zion too... RRG-like but with scenery. American Fork is kind of a pile. You should go to Maple tho, it's pretty good with squishy soft ratings.

User avatar
clif
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 5:24 pm

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by clif » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:40 pm

i'll throw you what i've got, i broke my arm biking about 3 a month after moving to SLC so didn't climb as much as i'd hoped. i doubt it's changed as much as the red since, but it wasn't a sport climbing destination then. my Wasatch Climbing North, Ruckman and Ruckman 1991 Chackstone has A PAGE for Mill Creek. As you know, the Ruckman's did American Fork separately, Chockstone, 1995. Someone must have told you that most of the canyons, Long Peak are trad? Though Mantels to Mazatlan was cool.

I have a 'guide' to Jackson and one to the Wind Rivers, but you should know better..?

Enjoy-
training is for people who care, i have a job.

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:43 pm

take a light rack of small-med pro, you'll be glad you did... some sport, some mixed, some trad. One of the best crags in the SW...

http://mountainproject.com/v/mill-creek/105716769

EricDorsey
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:52 pm

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by EricDorsey » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:50 pm

clif wrote:my Wasatch Climbing North, Ruckman and Ruckman 1991 Chackstone has A PAGE for Mill Creek.
Are you talking about the Mill Creek in the foothills of SLC? I think the poster is talking about Mill Creek outside of Moab... Mill Creek in Salt Lake looks like a horrible place to climb although there are a handful of routes.

User avatar
clif
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 5:24 pm

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by clif » Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:21 pm

right, though i'd forgotten about the Mill Creek you were thinking of. and i agree about American Fork, which could explain why going trad makes sense?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

camhead
Poser
Poser
Posts: 304
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:14 pm
Location: The Other River Gorge

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by camhead » Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:30 pm

dustonian wrote:take a light rack of small-med pro, you'll be glad you did... some sport, some mixed, some trad. One of the best crags in the SW...

http://mountainproject.com/v/mill-creek/105716769
The main area of Mill Creek (Wicked Crag and the cliff just across the river from it) are easy to find, and there is no need for a guidebook; the lines are pretty self-explanatory. You also definitely don't need any trad gear for those lines, though a stick clip is nice.

Also, if you're going to be in Northern Utah, check out Logan Canyon for sure. There's a guidebook for Northern Utah limestone climbing called "Northern Utah Limestone" or something like that. And, DON'T miss City of Rocks, it's less than 3 hours from SLC.
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

pawilkes
Sandy's Whipping Boy
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 1:45 am
Location: Salt Lake City
Contact:

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by pawilkes » Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:37 pm

I moved to SLC last summer and have been used all three guides. The are all pretty old and only kind of useful. You can borrow my Wasatch guide while you're out here. I don't have an AF guide yet. The Utah guide isn't that great. I also have an old Maple guide that at least gets you oriented to the area. If you need any local beta or someone to climb with let me know.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.

User avatar
ynp1
still a dumbass
Posts: 1324
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:54 pm
Location: Bishop, CA

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by ynp1 » Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:26 pm

Maple is a pile! I would never go back. The grades are soft if you are into that.
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.

EricDorsey
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:52 pm

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by EricDorsey » Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:34 pm

I loved Maple. Great camping, cool little canyon to hang out with friends, and tons of climbs you can walk to from your campsite. The rock can be a little loose but most of the popular routes are pretty clean. I liked it more than American Fork but maybe that was just me.

Check out the Uintas too. Sport climbing at 9,000 feet so if you are out there mid summer its the perfect place to go. Ruth Lake is still one of my favorite places to climb and camp.

Cromper
Poser
Poser
Posts: 335
Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:25 pm
Location: Lexington

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by Cromper » Tue Mar 06, 2012 12:11 am

I second Dorsey, I LOVED maple! Definitely worth a trip. Just remember to bring a helmet.

Shamis
bottom feeder
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:11 am

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by Shamis » Tue Mar 06, 2012 3:15 pm

maple's pretty cool. I recall Logan canyon being the slickest limestone I've ever climbed on...I wouldn't recommend it. American fork was pretty good. Little cottenwood canyon is good. Big cottonwood canyon not as good. Also lots of decent small crags up in the Uintas if you want to escape the heat in the summer.

robert birchell
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 120
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 11:13 pm

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by robert birchell » Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:31 pm

check out Ten Sleep Canyon in Ten Sleep Wy.
Great Summer Climbing.

THB
Official Nerd Notes Expert
Official Nerd Notes Expert
Posts: 273
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:26 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Post by THB » Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:07 pm

Thanks everyone for all of your beta!

Phil - I'll definitely try to hit you guys up when we are out there.

We have between 4 and 6 weeks and the places where we are planning on going are:

CO front range for sport climbing and bouldering (clear creek canyon, boulder canyon, rmnp for bouldering and route climbing, the monastery (which is technically rmnp i guess), eldo, mt. evans, etc, etc... i'm good on all the guidebooks for this area)

rifle, co (i'm good on this guidebook)

maple canyon, ut (i'm good on this guidebook)

american fork/mill creek, ut (this is why i asked for everyones beta... obviously the guidebooks for this area are less available and less specific)

ten sleep canyon, wy (i'm good on this guidebook)


little cottonwood and big cottonwood are mostly bouldering (which wasn't good during the summer time from my past experiences) and trad climbing (which i'm not interested in doing much of on this trip), right?

maybe i'll check out logan canyon if i have the time...

also, i've been to wild iris (up in wyoming), but i don't have a guidebook for this place... any beta for a good wild iris guidebook?

thanks again for everyones help!

cheers,

todd

Post Reply