Attention New School climbers

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will
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Attention New School climbers

Post by will » Sun Oct 25, 2015 4:57 pm

why the fuck are you leaving ropes up?!??? spent 7 days in the red .. i've never saw a bigger
group of pussies. Are you leaving it up to announce you lead a route ? no one cares that you lead "Eureka" ..
are you leaving it up to top rope it later ? how much later? why would you top rope it after a lead ? why
would you be so bold to tie up a route so others wont get on it ? why do you think anyone would want
to climb on your draws? seriously WTF are you thinking ?

And trad gear placed? I get to the base of "whiteout" some asshole has trad gear plugged.. why would you leave your gear?
it's the best 5.8 in the area .. do you think no one will want to get on it on a saturday ? OH you left
your gear in so your buddy could lead it .. do you really want your buddy leading on your poorly placed
gear ? what if he/she falls and your gear blows .. do you want he/her injury/death on your shoulders ?
and again .. no one gives a shit about your 5.8 lead ..

if you are climbing where other people are in view and your climb has a star .. chances are
someone wants to LEAD it .. lead .. the goal of climbing. you can do your top roping in the gym...
people climb outside to lead.

it seems like the new generation needs trophies..
trophy words .. trophy phases .. ya all need a little pat on the back. " i onsighted that !" you cant onsight
on top rope .. you cant onsight on top rope especially after sitting on the rope to take off your miguels
hoodie at the crux. ONSIGHT IS A CLEAN LEAD WITH NO PRE PLACED GEAR. no draws .. no trad gear
and sure as hell no fucking toprope. You dont deserve "onsight" you have to earn that shit.

Please stop treating outdoor climbing like a gym .. pull your ropes .. pick up your gear.. be humble and most of all
STFU with your trophy words.

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Rx2Climb
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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by Rx2Climb » Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:27 pm

"Please stop treating outdoor climbing like a gym .. pull your ropes .. pick up your gear.. be humble". I agree with you. Maybe not in such harsh words, but i definitely agree.
Drugs are Cool!

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J-Ru
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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by J-Ru » Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:46 pm

Agreed, but If you want to reach the New School Climbers, you might want to take a picture of your post and spray it on Instaspam, Farcebook, Snapcrack, and Tweeter.

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clif
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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by clif » Mon Oct 26, 2015 8:02 am

hilarious. (tweaker?)
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by GaryO » Mon Oct 26, 2015 10:24 am

I take it you fulfilled your role as an experienced mentor by kindly approaching these uneducated and inexperienced climbers to help them understand the importance of respecting other climbers at the crag and generally appropriate ethics. If so, thank you for your service. They will look back fondly on your leadership and will surely continue to pass on the valuable wisdom to future generations! If not, at least they have this inflammatory PSA to guide them :(

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by lena_chita » Mon Oct 26, 2015 11:32 am

Gee... someone is really pissed.

Are you really so out of touch with the world that you do not know that new climbers travel in packs, usually consisting of only 1 or two leaders, barely capable of dogging to the top of the route, and a whole bunch of people who want to top-rope the same climb afterwards, but have no ability to lead it? And that the said pack of new climbers will be as slow and inefficient as humanly possible?

Your options are:

1) do not go to a crag that has a 5-star 5.6 on a Saturday in high season, for god's sake! You've been here for a week? Why didn't you go on Wednesday?

2) approach the group politely, if the rope is hanging untended, and ask to quickly run up the route. Promise to hang their rope back if they hesitate (but they might say that it's O.K., someone will lead it again). Continue the conversation by mentioning that it is considered polite not to leave ropes hanging on popular routes at a busy crag.

3) pull the rope and throw a tantrum. Maybe pee on the rope to make your point, and throw their draws into the tree. And stomp on their packs, maybe?

4) post a rant online, where these climbers will never see it, butr it would provide entertainment for people who already know.


1 and 2 are more productive, but 3 and 4 certainly provide better entertainment. So if you plan on doing 3, please post in advance, I might overcome my aversion for a day and stop at Practice wall to observe and cheer.

will
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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by will » Mon Oct 26, 2015 7:44 pm

GaryO wrote:I take it you fulfilled your role as an experienced mentor by kindly approaching these uneducated and inexperienced climbers to help them understand the importance of respecting other climbers at the crag and generally appropriate ethics. If so, thank you for your service. They will look back fondly on your leadership and will surely continue to pass on the valuable wisdom to future generations! If not, at least they have this inflammatory PSA to guide them :(
I have not voiced my issues .. yet .. but i will. things need to change ..
lena_chita wrote:Gee... someone is really pissed.

Are you really so out of touch with the world that you do not know that new climbers travel in packs, usually consisting of only 1 or two leaders, barely capable of dogging to the top of the route, and a whole bunch of people who want to top-rope the same climb afterwards, but have no ability to lead it? And that the said pack of new climbers will be as slow and inefficient as humanly possible?

Your options are:

1) do not go to a crag that has a 5-star 5.6 on a Saturday in high season, for god's sake! You've been here for a week? Why didn't you go on Wednesday?

2) approach the group politely, if the rope is hanging untended, and ask to quickly run up the route. Promise to hang their rope back if they hesitate (but they might say that it's O.K., someone will lead it again).

3) pull the rope and throw a tantrum. Maybe pee on the rope to make your point, and throw their draws into the tree. And stomp on their packs, maybe?

4) post a rant online, where these climbers will never see it, butr it would provide entertainment for people who already know.


1 and 2 are more productive, but 3 and 4 certainly provide better entertainment. So if you plan on doing 3, please post in advance, I might overcome my aversion for a day and stop at Practice wall to observe and cheer.
I am pissed .. 1) the only day it didn't happen was on tuesday 2) "Continue the conversation by mentioning that it is considered polite not to leave ropes hanging on popular routes at a busy crag." i may do this . 3) would be more fun.. 4) done.

not so out of touch .. i've watched the progression to complete "pussy-ness". it's great people are leaving the chalk dust filled gyms .. they just need to learn they are not the only climbers outside.
option 5) climb 5.9(trad) and up..those routs are usually vacant.

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by Ascentionist » Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:22 am

Who are all you people? "Will", "GaryO"?

JB, can we have a little moderation? We need to rein in the foul language and houliganism on this BBS! 512OW and SCIN cause enough trouble without letting these youngsters get fired up.

Haha! There was a day it was Sunshine and Moonbeam were the gumball magnets. Before that it was Fortress Wall. I started climbing in '94 and gym rats were a problem even then. And there was no internets forum to rant on. You just had to sit in a rhodo thicket and stew.

The problems were all the same. I hated climbing on the weekend as I tried to move up through the grades. Never failed, whatever route I was aiming at there would be a group of bros and their...ladyfriends all strung up with nylon.

We spent an hour trying to get on Face Up once and a group was leisurely hogging it. Finally I was annoyed enough I stopped a guy as he was untying and getting ready to walk around to dog Brother Stair. Can we cut in, I implored.

"Well, I'm kinda saving it for my wife to give it a try," he said unapologetically.

About that time the missus came lumbering around the corner from the direction of To Defy. All 300 pounds of her, barely contained in a narrow band of spandex 'round her bossums and lycra stretched to its limit of modesty.

I shoved my draws in my pack and stormed off. Probably went back to town and rented a movie.

The next time I went back to Left Flank it was a group of rednecks leading on a static rope and some eastern European folks who didn't know how to clean anchors.

The next time I met a nice couple from Indy who were taking their spanking new rope out of the plastic at the base of Bro Stair. They didn't know how to clean anchors either.

And back then seemed every other week some gumball was breaking an ankle on Maypop. Never understood that. You can top rope it from Mr Bungle.

Finally I gave up and became a trad climber.
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will
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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by will » Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:44 pm

oddly I'm not that young .. just immature .. i started climbing in '96 ... still have rigid cams on my rack .. haha
i've always been a trad climber .. hated (still hate) sport climbing but i respect the grades they are putting up.

the problem is .. the top roper gym gumbies are starting to impose there 'style" on the trad routes. Its just rude..
this attitude, behavior or whatever we call it would not go un-confronted anywhere else in society .. but when
it's climbing we are just supposed to let it go? No way .. if you are an asshole ..your mom wont tell you.. it's up
to society to tell you. I'm starting a movement ! lets tell rude asshole climbers that they are rude assholes.. why
not?

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ray
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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by ray » Tue Oct 27, 2015 9:31 pm

Since we're complaining I've witnessed one and heard of another climber on red tagged projects. The one I encountered had no explanation as to why they were doing it.

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by whoneedsfeet » Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:21 pm

Sorry ray, I just had to give that 18 inch dyno a go for myself. In all seriousness I tend to make rude and crude comments to help clear out the crag of the uptight fucks, seems to work for most except those god damn euros and their stupid fucking footwork.
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by Lateralus » Wed Oct 28, 2015 9:49 am

will, you sound like a rude asshole and you likely know it but in case you weren't sure.
You also sound dumb as the rock you live under.
There are rude people pretty much everywhere, driving, restaurants, on the trail
, movie theater, everywhere... I've never seen hostile confrontations go well in any scenario
with those folks either. Yelling at them doesn't actually make them stand down
or all of a sudden become respectful, it just escalates a bad situation ,guess your mother didn't teach you that.
Also, you don't own the rock those toolbags can do whatever they want , they aren't breaking any laws.
Courtesy is nice but 1/2 the people don't have it and it's been that
way for a long time. Take up a new sport before you give yourself
an aneurysm, mma might be good for you and us.
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by lena_chita » Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:26 am

ray wrote:Since we're complaining I've witnessed one and heard of another climber on red tagged projects. The one I encountered had no explanation as to why they were doing it.
I've heard of some, too. They didn't know they were doing anything wrong, or potentially-sometimes-dangerous, they were just psyched to have found this nice route to climb... and quite eager to tell me about it. After my (very long and emphatic) explanation, they now do know better.

Nothing is new under the sun, but with more people climbing we will see more things happening more often.

I remember feeling really bewildered when my 1st draw was stolen off a route a few years ago. I didn't leave the draws overnight, they were hanging on an 11c at the Summersville Lake called Maximum Overdrive, and a friend asked to leave them so he would do a lap at the end of the day. The route was baking in the sun, so we pulled the rope and went around the corner to do something else. When we came back, the first draw was gone. The crux is around the 3rd draw. So someone must have gotten on it, gotten to the 2nd draw, and then taken the first draw on the way down... Or picked it off with a stick clip. One of those, seriously? wtf, people?!?!

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by milspecmark » Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:47 am

After climbing in Seneca this weekend and seeing an absolute huge crowd, I have come to the conclusion that rock climbing is becoming very popular. Even Trad climbing is getting popular. However, there are some benefits to this, like all the effort and funds raised by the rrgcc and them opening up new climbing areas and developing new routes on existing walls. Just look at the evolution of Red River Gorge over the last 8 years. I see it is an opportunity to keep climbing areas growing and having new routes become available. Also motivates me to climb harder and become better so I can get on the routes no one else is on on a busy day. I have also found these new climbers to be late sleepers. Get up early and go climb at empty crags, they dont show up till 9 or 10. Also, do a bit of leg work and get a permit to climb at torrent or roadside where seating is limited. If you are creative, you can avoid crowds and take advantage of new and ever growing routes in the red.

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Re: Attention New School climbers

Post by EricDorsey » Wed Oct 28, 2015 1:23 pm

OMG I cant believe the most popular 5.6 in the area had people on it during the most popular time of the year! Shocking...

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