My prediction for 2008...

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What crag/area will see a catastrophic bolt failure?

Funk Rock City
15
30%
Muir
3
6%
PMRP (newer route)
1
2%
PMRP (older route)
1
2%
Motherlode
3
6%
Long Wall
0
No votes
Pebble beach
1
2%
Pistol Ridge
1
2%
Other
6
12%
None will fail
19
38%
 
Total votes: 50

Wes
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My prediction for 2008...

Post by Wes » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:49 pm

There will be a catastrophic bolt failure this year, where someone gets really hurt. The big question is where?

Could be one of the new routes in the choss rock, could be a lode route, could be anchors on an old trad route, but I think my money is on FRC. Those are some of the older bolts, they see some moisture, and they see more falls then the older bolts out 9a/b way. I have seen some of the stud bolts rusted and worn 4/5 of the way though, and watched them snap off with a flick of the wrist on the ratchet.
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the lurkist
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Post by the lurkist » Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:39 pm

Those routes need to be fixed. Capn Static? What say you?
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Saxman
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Post by Saxman » Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:13 pm

Until someone invents a drill that can be leg powered, who's going to go out there and hand drill that many holes? What if we organized some sort of bolt replacement day where people volunteer to go out and help drill the holes?
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Post by 512OW » Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:30 pm

Maybe we ask for a one day pass to let us go out and power drill, just to replace bolts.

It could potentially save lives.
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Post by Andrew » Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:15 am

So could closing the crag
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Post by 512OW » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:19 am

Thats why we ask nicely, Tree Boy.
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Post by Josephine » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:28 pm

disclaimer: Horatio, you can skip this post since it contains yet more of my oh so boring questions :wink:

exactly how many "catastrophic bolt failure(s)" have there been in the gorge since bolting began? and wes, what makes 2008 the year of bolt failure? anything specific about this year that's different than the others?
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Post by Wes » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:51 pm

I think there have been two bolt failures in the RRG proper, and maybe a couple that may not have failed in muir, but that came out or something goofy like that. Though I don't know if anyone was really hurt, except maybe the one on sand? Buster might know more about that.

Each year that goes by, the hardware weakens and weakens. And, in many cases, you are starting with the cheapest hardware that could be bought (or made) to start with. Many of the more well traveled routes have had at least one round of new hardware, but most of the older areas are sporting bolts that could be 15+ years old, and they are in areas that get wet, which seems to really speed things along. And, you have a lot of new routes going up on choss, so you have that factor as well. Maybe with a couple years of use and freeze thaw, some of those new bolts might be worse of then the older ones.

I kinda doubt that a full anchor set with fail, but I would not at all be surprised if a bolt break or pulls from a short fall, or even body weight this year. Unless, of course, they are all replaced. Which I doubt will happen anytime soon.

I wonder what the "other" crags are? I messed up, and put Pistol Ridge, rather then Purple valley, so take that into consideration as well.
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michaelarmand
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Post by michaelarmand » Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:16 pm

Purple valley is definitely my vote....and why can't bolts be replaced with a power drill? How could one even tell after the fact if the hole was drilled by hand or drill? My vote is for safety....
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Post by Wes » Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:19 pm

Power drill are only banned in wilderness areas - FRC, Wall of Denial, Tower??, Eagle point buttress, etc. All the other crags power drills are OK.

And, yeah, there is some serious mank at Purple Valley.
michaelarmand wrote:Purple valley is definitely my vote....and why can't bolts be replaced with a power drill? How could one even tell after the fact if the hole was drilled by hand or drill? My vote is for safety....
"There is no secret ingredient"

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Post by anticlmber » Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:02 pm

so whats to keep you from going out to said places wes and making your bet the shoe-in??

my votes for friction slab.
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flip
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Post by flip » Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:35 pm

Why not have a bolting day? I would gladly help replace bolts in the red but would like to have someone show me the do's and don'ts. I also don't know all of the forest service rules that go along with it. But if any one wants to re-bolt some routes I would be glad to help and pay for some gear.

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caribe
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Post by caribe » Mon Jan 07, 2008 5:24 am

I will cowboy up and pony up for rebolting.

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caribe
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Post by caribe » Mon Jan 07, 2008 5:53 am

Rethinking this, I just can't leave it alone. There is not going to be a bolt failure in 2008. People look at bolts and say I am not climbing on that; we filter and we are responsible! Furthermore we have a community composed of people like Wes who are worrying about it and who are capable of fixing really dire bolts. When stuff is rusted enough to worry about it, we just won't use it. The design parameters in the worst bolts are way more than the forces a hard whipper will but on the bolts. Thousands of people use this board and a good deal more climb in the Red. I have not heard of one bolt failure, not one.

On the other hand, some of the bolts I have seen on the older routes make me wonder a bit. They should probably be replaced. It would be damn stupid to wait for a bolt failure to do something about it. :|

All this reminds me of the Muir Valley incident when someone said that there were bad bolts at Muir. Rick closed the place and recruited the community to check every bolt on every route! THAT WAS BADASS!! That is what I call commitment. Think about it! We are going to wank off about this issue in this forum for a few pages. Makes me want to get a T shirt with 'What Would Rick Weber Do' printed across the chest.

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Post by anticlmber » Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:00 am

makes me want to wear a shirt with BBQ sauce on it.
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