Flat Irons

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
john e aragon
Fred
Posts: 287
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 3:45 pm
Location: Crockett, KY

Flat Irons

Post by john e aragon » Fri May 23, 2008 4:12 pm

I need to know about routes (5.8 or less), camping, how long would it take to drive there from Lexington, and any other info you want to share. Is it really as runout as I hear it is?
because i can

Wes
Believer
Posts: 5180
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 11:46 am
Location: Torrent!
Contact:

Post by Wes » Fri May 23, 2008 4:27 pm

Not done the routes there, but the drive is about 20 hours or so. The approach is long, and the camping options very limited. There may also be falcon closures on some.

Plus, all the front side routes are slabs in the sense that I think more the a couple dogs have gone up to the top, people in roller skates, etc. I would not drive all that way to just climb there, but eldo is close by, as is RMNP and Vedauwoo.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

schwagpad
innocent bystander
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:04 am
Location: the lab

Post by schwagpad » Sat May 24, 2008 7:48 am

I've only done the first flatiron, and I don't know much about the gear cuz I've only soloed it. The approach is 20 minutes or so. It's 5.7 and I can believe that it is a bit runout. Camping is a bit difficult around boulder...in fact I can't think of any place nearby, but I live here so I haven't been looking for camping recently. All that said, the climbing around boulder in general is awesome. There are at least three thousand routes (many of those multipitch) within 15 minutes of my house.

redpointron
Poser
Poser
Posts: 307
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 9:31 pm
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Re: Flat Irons

Post by redpointron » Sat May 24, 2008 12:10 pm

john e aragon wrote:I need to know about routes (5.8 or less), camping, how long would it take to drive there from Lexington, and any other info you want to share. Is it really as runout as I hear it is?
i have done the 1st, 2nd and 3rd. makes for a great day. the first pitch on the first has two bolts (5.6). i put a red alien in above the second bolt as well. my buddy led the second pitch and we simul-climbed the rest of the route. i cannot remember the decent. check once you get to boulder. i think we made it in one long rap (with twins).

simul-climbed second and third (5.4). three raps on the third. don't remember much about the second...not as worthwhile as the other two.

have a great time and check with anyone at neptune mountaineering...they can get you the specifics.

btw, you will find parties of all abilities on these routes. some soloing in approach shoes and others with a portaledge... :wink:

regards.

r.r.

Christian
Dharma Punk
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 9:57 am
Location: Evansville, IN

Post by Christian » Sat May 24, 2008 4:40 pm

The only camping I know of close enough to matter is at a lodge/motel a few miles up Boulder Canyon on the right. First come first serve. Otherwise you have to go up to Nederland and find Forest Service land or paid campgrounds. Wes is definitely right about Eldo being close but once again NO Camping. Boulder Canyon has a vast amount of trad and sport climbing and also some good and safe toproping. I would not limit myself to just the Flat Irons.
Get on Mountain Project web site and find all the info you'll need.
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu

john e aragon
Fred
Posts: 287
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 3:45 pm
Location: Crockett, KY

Post by john e aragon » Sun May 25, 2008 5:42 pm

THanks for the info everyone. If i get to go I will try to hit Eldo. THanks again.
because i can

User avatar
Josephine
Mean like vegetables
Posts: 2216
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:38 pm
Location: lexington at last
Contact:

Post by Josephine » Sun May 25, 2008 8:00 pm

i 2nded the 3rd flatiron. it was super fun and easy - but there's very little gear. the approach trail was a bit difficult when it got to the tallus and you had to look very carefully to pick your way across it. start early - between afternoon thunderstorms and huge lines and early start was key. we were in the parking lot at 5:30am and done in time to have breakfast at this really nice little place by neptune. pitty i can't remember the name of it.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun

Jay
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am
Location: Richmond

Post by Jay » Tue May 27, 2008 8:24 am

I absolutely love the East face of the Third. It's probably the best mega easy trad climb ever. There are a few places where pro can be scarce, but the climbing is so easy it really didn't bother me at all. (there is a pitch of fourth class on the route) It's well worth the drive, and when you get done, you can climb at one of hundreds of other spots in the Northern front range. As for the camping situation, there's National forest accessible outside of Lyons, which isn't too far, a Carter lake is only 1/2 hour away or so...

BTW, Josie, was it the Southern Sun?
"Always carry a large flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake." -W.C. Fields

User avatar
Ascentionist
Dream Catcher
Posts: 1081
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:23 pm
Location: Fifteen minutes from Martin's Fork
Contact:

Post by Ascentionist » Tue May 27, 2008 11:58 am

This is the closest public camping that i know of. There is probably more thati don't know of. You can also camp at Golden Gate Canyon State Park which is fairly reasonable and really cool with climbing at Ralston Roost and Thorodin Mountain as well.

http://www.co.jefferson.co.us/openspace ... 56_R57.htm

http://parks.state.co.us/Parks/goldengatecanyon

I have only soloed one route there (Flatirons). Gear looked sparse, but the angle is so easy that even harder routes would probably not feel too scary. Unless you are bent on pushing your limits I wouldn't worry about it.
There is no TEAM in I

charlie
BANNED
Posts: 3234
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 12:55 pm
Location: The Comfort of Strangers

Post by charlie » Tue May 27, 2008 12:26 pm

You'll be fine Dude. Run out, but gear wherever you need it and totally slabby.

From Lex you can get to Boulder in around 21 hours straight thru.

When not crashing w/ friends there is a decent campground up Boulder Canyon, close to Nederland, called Kelly Dahl. May have to make reservations there and check to see if it's open.

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Tue May 27, 2008 12:30 pm

there is actually camping right outside of boulder canyon, almost in town. it is a hotel of sorts, but it has places to pitch tents. it is on the right as you head out of town. rhunt, can you remember the name of this place?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

Crankmas
Fred Garvin, male prostitute
Posts: 3965
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 1:24 pm
Location: Winchester, KY

Post by Crankmas » Wed May 28, 2008 5:31 am

east face of the Maiden is fun, casual approach as long as the mule deer don't want to mate, I'd commute from Vegas if I was you

Rapunzel
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2004 12:04 am

Post by Rapunzel » Fri May 30, 2008 6:19 am

Breakfast place was probably Walnut Cafe. Really good food. Also nice bike shop in same strip mall.

Christian
Dharma Punk
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 9:57 am
Location: Evansville, IN

Post by Christian » Sat May 31, 2008 4:37 am

pigsteak wrote:there is actually camping right outside of boulder canyon, almost in town. it is a hotel of sorts, but it has places to pitch tents. it is on the right as you head out of town. rhunt, can you remember the name of this place?
It is on the right ,just before 4mile Canyon.
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu

haas
Choss Hunter
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 1:06 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Re: Flat Irons

Post by haas » Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:38 pm

john e aragon wrote:I need to know about routes (5.8 or less), camping, how long would it take to drive there from Lexington, and any other info you want to share. Is it really as runout as I hear it is?
John, we met at Tackett's a few years ago one night. Anyway, I wrote the new color guidebook to the Flatirons. If you need any specific info or maybe even a place to crash, email me directly at [email protected]

Post Reply