Unpublished sport climbs

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
schwagpad
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Unpublished sport climbs

Post by schwagpad » Tue Dec 01, 2009 12:58 pm

Probably been discussed before, but....
I can think of a handful of established unpublished crags at the Red, and I'm wondering 1) how many total unpublished sport climbs you think there are 2) Why are some crags not included (probably access issues, but in some cases it seems like access should be fine)

My guess: 100 unpublished sport climbs if you don't count ones where the bolts have been pulled (i.e. hominy hole)

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SCIN
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Post by SCIN » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:10 pm

2. Cuz I don't know about them.
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Saxman
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Post by Saxman » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:33 pm

Good job. Now pawilkes will have unfinished 11 nightmares.
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Post by caribe » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:40 pm

Saxman wrote:Good job. Now pawilkes will have unfinished 11 nightmares.
Nightmares? More like long-term psychological issues for which he should seek professional help.

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Re: Unpublished sport climbs

Post by lena_chita » Tue Dec 01, 2009 2:44 pm

schwagpad wrote:Probably been discussed before, but....
I can think of a handful of established unpublished crags at the Red, and I'm wondering 1) how many total unpublished sport climbs you think there are 2) Why are some crags not included (probably access issues, but in some cases it seems like access should be fine)

My guess: 100 unpublished sport climbs if you don't count ones where the bolts have been pulled (i.e. hominy hole)
Unpublished where? In the latest printed guidebook, or in the online guidebook?

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Post by Andrew » Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:47 pm

Unpublished anywhere. There are a lot of cliffs here and there that were never officially published because of access or people wanting to keep it to themselves.

For example Crossroads had bolts on it for a long time before it was ever published.
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bcombs
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Post by bcombs » Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:59 pm

You mean there are cliffs where people go and climb and they don't get points for it? What the hell is up with that?

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Post by Andrew » Tue Dec 01, 2009 4:49 pm

I agree with bcombs, what the hell
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ynp1
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Post by ynp1 » Wed Dec 02, 2009 1:01 pm

lower slabs at roadside... i think those are all known and no access issue that i know of.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN » Wed Dec 02, 2009 1:50 pm

I know of a large cliff with many routes that I won't publish because the developer doesn't want it to be published.
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schwagpad
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Post by schwagpad » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:02 pm

How about the crag near M-load but on the other side of the road, with a handful of long pumpy 5.12s? (I forget the name)

How about Briar Patch? Grott?
Serafina?

The two biggest unpublished crags I know of have access issues. doh.

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Post by Toy » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:23 pm

What are you doing DH? I never took you for one to stir the shit pot.

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Post by sendit » Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:30 pm

insert fight club quote here
all you haters die slow.

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Post by michaelarmand » Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:59 pm

SCIN wrote:I know of a large cliff with many routes that I won't publish because the developer doesn't want it to be published.
Why someone would put forth the effort and expense to develop a cliff and not want anyone to go there? I guess if there are access issues, but otherwise this makes no sense....
I've been a gumby longer than you've been climbing.

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Post by toad857 » Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:47 pm

michaelarmand wrote:Why someone would put forth the effort and expense to develop a cliff and not want anyoneto go there?
it's not that they don't want anyone to go there. it's just that they don't want YOU to go there.

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