This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Redpoint » Wed Jan 08, 2014 3:07 pm

Some of my latest trip reports:

Cherokee:

I recently established a couple new problems at Cherokee, rated at about V4/V5, probably height dependent, but they felt like 5's to me. You should print off these descriptions and bring it with you if you want to try them:

The first one has the same first two moves as the high traverse. Start on the big jug for the middle bolted route, make the big move out left to the super good rounded incut hold, and then make a huge move up and right to the left sidepull used on the middle bolted route. From here all holds on the middle bolted route are out, staying left of that problem. You match up on that sidepull, it's got a good slightly slopey crimp on top for your right hand. Make a giant move out left to the extremely hard to find bad crimp (it juts out of the wall and you can even put your thumb under it utilizing it as a pinch) that isn't used on any other already established line, and then bump that hand to the sloper. Good luck finding the positive part of that sloper, but it is possible, I've done it. During the top out, you will be extremely temped to cut right use the slopey crimp hand/foot hold used on the middle route, but it's not part of the problem. There are feet to top out, they are just hard to see.

The second problem starts on that horizontal finger lock crack used on the low traverse. Match up on it. My goal was to try and climb strait up from here. Make a big move out left to the very good incut crimp used on the left bolted route. Next make a long move up and right to the very good full pad crimp that's used on the high traverse. From here you will see two bad diagonal crimps in front of your face, grab one of them, and then put your foot in the horizontal finger lock crack. Next make a super hard long move up and left to a sharp 2 finger pocket that isn't used on any other already established line, then right hand on the diagonal crimp. Now I know I've bumped my hand left to the extremely good rail that's used on the left bolted route then topped out, and I'm pretty positive that I've also ignored that rail and made a move up and right to some new holds and topped it out.

Knobs:

So my long standing project has finally fallen, and it's fun as hell. I'm naming it Lost and Found V5. It's taken me about 5 trips to send it. You know how they say the problem is always harder for the FA, well that was definitely the case here. If someone told me all the beta, I probably would have gotten it on my first trip. This first description is just where the line goes and I'm going to try and avoid beta here:

Start with your right hand on the triangle crimp and your left hand on the diagonal, slightly slopey, but very positive crimp. Make some moves out right, then some moves out left, and the line tops out to the right of the overhang.

I also developed about 5 other problems on my last trip, 4 were very easy beginner problems, but they made for a good warm up. All are located in what I call the middle area, which is in between the Lost and Found boulder, and the other giant boulder with the majority of the problems on it. The one good problem I found (Flakenstein) is about a V1, easy I know but it's fun. There is a giant scoop feature (like The Scoop at Rocktown) on a giant boulder, and right behind it is a 2-3 foot tall boulder that should be padded, especially since one of the key holds doesn't appear to be the strongest of holds.

Funny story, so I go to leave and see what I thought was a hiker but it ended up being a climber looking for the boulders. I couldn't believe I randomly saw another climber at Knobs, I never thought I would see the day. He most likely couldn't find the boulders because he didn't print out my map(http://i45.tinypic.com/13z5zd0.jpg), and he also neglected to turn left in to the forest and bushwack his way down to them. I showed him a bunch of problems, and after a bunch of attempts he got the 2nd ascent of Lost and Found. Now we are good climbing partners, developing tons of quality sandstone problems in Indiana, just 30 miles from downtown Louisville.
Last edited by Redpoint on Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:46 pm, edited 16 times in total.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby WDW4 » Wed Jan 08, 2014 3:18 pm

Redpoint,

After seeing some of the boulders in the Knobs,as well as one of your videos online, I put the area up on mountain project a good while ago. If you'd like, I'd be happy to hand the page over to you so you can update it as much as you like.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/knobs-forest-knobs/108412222
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Redpoint » Wed Jan 08, 2014 3:38 pm

I'm working on a guide, it should be pretty good. It won't have any photos, but it will have an overhead view of all of the boulders, problems, and of course I'm going to have descriptions. Ya I would love to manage that page, just pm me the deets. Some of your comments on that page had me cracking up.

I forgot to add that I also cleaned all of the holds not long ago, so they should all be dirt/moss free.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby WDW4 » Wed Jan 08, 2014 3:59 pm

Redpoint,

As far as I know, you can register on Mountain Project and will then be able to add areas and routes. If you want to start over and/or use the info I already put up, go for it.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Redpoint » Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:38 pm

I went to Knobs recently and shot video of all the new problems: http://vimeo.com/90253134
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby dustonian » Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:55 pm

Sick, the uncut footage of Lost and Found!! I didn't believe you sent that monster til I saw that... is it up on DPM yet??
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby nik » Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:21 pm

i'm not quite sure what's happening, but that was the most fun i've had on the internet in a long time.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby dustonian » Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:27 pm

dig the bitchin Christian rock soundtrack
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Redpoint » Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:56 pm

Na, the trolls at DPM are even worse than here. And hey I put a lot of thought in to that soundtrack; I heard Volbeat the other day on AT&T's cheesy rock channel, it said they even opened for Metallica once. I heard that Q Lazzarus song at the gym and thought it would be a good 80's song to put in a climbing video.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby tbwilsonky » Fri Mar 28, 2014 8:37 am

this really underscores the awesomeness of climbing. no scary gut check. no aesthetic draw. no difficulty. still out there climbing.

bravo.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Redpoint » Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:47 pm

"no scary gut check"
= the more fun you'll have.

"no aesthetic draw"
I think the place and the rock is beautiful myself. I even found Mountain Laurel around the boulder field, I think it has it's own micro climate. For instance, at the end of fall when all the leaves have fallen, the trees at this boulder field all still have leaves.

"no difficulty"
Looking at your spray list, Lost and Found is about as hard as you can possibly climb, unless you're like me and endurance seams to be the limiting factor when sport climbing. I blame bouldering :)

Three douchey comments from Lexington, coincidence? Ha ha just messing with yall. I think it's pictures like this:
Image
that are provoking the emanate war.

But really, this place isn't for everyone, but if you live in Louisville and only feel like driving 12 miles to go hiking and to boulder on some sandstone, this place is pretty cool for that. The above video, regardless of what you old people think, is not to boast but to be used as a guide, or just to let people know what it's like there. If you watch the video and think the place sucks, I'm glad I saved you the trip. But if you watch it and say, hey it looks like a bunch of climbs I would like to try, get out there and try them. I'm just glad I could help bring some local climbing to some people who live in the Louisville area.
Last edited by Redpoint on Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Cromper » Fri Mar 28, 2014 5:09 pm

Let's go bouldering sometime redpoint, I spend too many weekends in Louisville
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby tbwilsonky » Sat Mar 29, 2014 3:30 pm

i wasn't trying to be a dick. the Louisville 'bouldering' is really a testament to the draw of climbing. not something i'm interested in, but its cool as shit someone took the time to do it.

and just to clarify... there's no way i could do Lost and Found. v4 is the end of the road for me. i do appreciate the Ticklist review though.
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby pwrdbykimchi » Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:57 pm

Are those boulders really small, or are you hyoooooge (i.e., 10 ft giant)?
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Re: This might be a good place for Louisville boulderers

Postby Redpoint » Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:12 am

Cromper wrote:Let's go bouldering sometime redpoint, I spend too many weekends in Louisville


I go 30 minutes in to Indiana a lot, I wish I had gone today. I'll be climbing at Cherokee Park a lot before the chiggers get there. O and I sent you a PM.

tbwilsonky wrote:i wasn't trying to be a dick. the Louisville 'bouldering' is really a testament to the draw of climbing. not something i'm interested in, but its cool as shit someone took the time to do it.

and just to clarify... there's no way i could do Lost and Found. v4 is the end of the road for me. i do appreciate the Ticklist review though.


I know, I thought everyone's comments were funny.

pwrdbykimchi wrote:Are those boulders really small, or are you hyoooooge (i.e., 10 ft giant)?


The vast majority of the problems are lowballs, but I can think of at least 6 problems that are normal height.
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