Climbing Around Colorado Springs

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Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby The3rdear » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:09 am

Hey folks, I recently got a new job and my wife and I will be moving to Colorado Springs in two weeks! I've only been out there for the interview, but that was enough to get me pumped about the move. One of the things I will miss most about The Midwest is climbing at The Red, but I'm sure there will be plenty to keep me busy out there. I've done a little research, and see that the main areas are Shelf Road, Red Rock Canyon, and Garden of the Gods. Has anyone ever climbed at these areas and have any advice or comments to offer? I'm not expecting anything like The Red, but I hear Shelf is pretty good. If you have any other comments for a young couple moving to Colorado Springs, let me know. Thanks.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby pigsteak » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:28 am

if you love the Red, all of those places will suck royally. Lived in CS myself, and moving back here was the best move for sport climbing, hands down. Enjoy all the other things life has to offer in Colorado, because sport climbing is not one of them.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:34 am

Red Rock Canyon? You mean the music venue near Denver?

Trad is where it's at on the front range... lots of world-class areas. The sport climbing is pretty lackluster. Shelf is fairly decent.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby milspecmark » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:07 am

The Sport Climbing in Boulder Canyon is awsome. I think it is an hour and 45 min drive from Colorado springs but you will love it.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby The3rdear » Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:24 pm

Haha, thanks pigsteak. I guess I'll have to get into backpacking...or trad climbing.

@ Dustin:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Nort ... ck_Canyon/

Sounds like a newer place right near town.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby pigsteak » Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:45 pm

again, that place is very mediocre to average....I have friends who live right at the mouth of red rocks and they rarely climb there. you think our sandstone is soft...wait until you touch this stuff. it is almost all slabby, if you are into that sort of thing. but the trad is superb in colorado..switch gears for sure.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby goodguy » Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:49 pm

CS is pretty cool. Pueblo is close and there are some really cool towers down there. Also, Shelf Road isn't too far and it's good sport climbing on bullet hard limestone, not to mention the drive out there is awesome. Keep in mind, John Gill lives in Pueblo so if it's good enough for him you should love it!
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby The3rdear » Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:24 pm

pigsteak wrote:if you love the Red, all of those places will suck royally. Lived in CS myself, and moving back here was the best move for sport climbing, hands down. Enjoy all the other things life has to offer in Colorado, because sport climbing is not one of them.


I understand that these places won't hold a candle to The Red. In fact, I think I'd be setting myself up for major dissappointment if I expect to find anything like The Red out there. But is Shelf a worthy enough destination of it's own? Is it a good enough place to be motivated to go often and project different routes? Also, how about Rifle? I've heard a lot about it, but have never been. Would it warrant driving like 10 hours in one weekend to climb there? (I'm an 11 climber)

I know the best answer is "Find out for yourself in two weeks", but humor me. I need something to do/think about the last few days of this job. Thanks.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby pigsteak » Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:41 pm

Shelf is mostly vert limestone. You will have a grand time there in your climbing range. Limestone can feel sharp and "pockety" when you first climb on it, so be forewarned. If you climb 11s at the top, Rifle is not the place for you to go. You'll enjoy the area for sure....
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby milspecmark » Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:57 pm

Did you not look at boulder canyon. You can find it on rockclimbing.com
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby The3rdear » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:37 pm

To be honest, I didn't look at Boulder Canyon. Not really sure why either. Maybe it's because I've got some friends up around Denver. I figure they'll have the beta and I'll make it up there from time to time. I don't know anyone around CS, nor do I know anyone who's climbed around CS, so I'm mostly curious about that area. But yea, it looks awesome! Thanks for the advice.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby milspecmark » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:39 pm

Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby vertical1 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:45 pm

Shelf and the South Platte areas are best for outside of CS. Shelf is a lot of fun, and you can chase sun or shade to climb year round there. Less than an hour from CS. There is a ton in the South Platte area, and a new guidebook just came out. Also, you are prob not far from 11 mile canyon as well. Get the Mountainproject app for $5. It is the best bang for your buck.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:48 pm

milspecmark wrote:Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.


HAHAHAHAHA good one!!!!!! Boulder Canyon = 3 or 4 good trad routes and a million grid-bolted chosspiles.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby vertical1 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:49 pm

milspecmark wrote:Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.



Dude, I live in Boulder and I just spent the month of August in KY because its so good. Spent part of the last three summers there, not counting some springs and falls. BOCAN is good, but no F-ing comparison to corbin sandstone. There are some classics, but no where near the concentration of quality lines like just about any crag at the Red.

Please come to your defense and list some of these high quality routes/crags that can even closely compare to Military, Left Flank, Funk Rock, The Gallery, Drive-By, Bruise Brothers, or The Lode. I tried to hit a wide range of grades, BTW.
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