Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...

Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby vertical1 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:54 pm

dustonian wrote:
milspecmark wrote:Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.


HAHAHAHAHA good one!!!!!! Boulder Canyon = 3 or 4 good trad routes and a million grid-bolted chosspiles.


BOCAN does have about a dozen high quality sport routes also, mixed in with the 1000 or so mediocre to poor quality, grid bolted, chipped, chossy, dirty, or just plain not fun routes that it has.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby milspecmark » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:00 am

I guess I just don't have the experience to make a good comparison. I climbed only 2 days in Boulder Canyon and I prob. jumped on the classics. They were great. I have climbed in the Red prob 30 times and I love it as well. In my experience, climbing "Lust" at Avalon was much better than climbing at Bruise brothers. I also like how you can do multi pitch sport routes in boulder canyon. I loved wrinkles in time, and all of those climbs next to it. There are over 50 3 or 4 star climbs in boulder canyon (On a 4 star scale). I guess I just can not see living in CO and being like, man.....this place sucks....Sorry if I sounded like I was putting down the Red, the Red is still my favorite.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby vertical1 » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:14 am

Living in CO does not suck, but comparing individual climbing areas here to the Red does not weigh in favor of this place. Now on a different note, you do get more variety of rock/choss to climb on here. I can do granite, gneiss, sandstone, conglomerate, basalt or limestone, where as the Red is just one type of rock. But that type is probably the best climbing medium there is. Weather is also MUCH better here in CO.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:18 am

I don't know about that, Eldorado Canyon, Lumpy Ridge, RMNP, and South Platte are world-class trad areas and blow the Red away for sheer "climbing experience", IMO.

Oh yeah, Clear Creek Canyon near Golden has some decent sport too. Rifle is worth driving too for sure, but probably not for the 11's. That said, you can do a couple trips there and have fun on the incredibly polished, glassy 11's there.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby milspecmark » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:30 am

Eldorado Canyon was breathtaking. I loved the hike there. I like how they had a sign that said no running. Mountain lions might chase you.lol
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:31 am

Really?? I never saw that... ran there for years but never got eaten.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby RRO » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:51 am

dustonian wrote:Really?? I never saw that... ran there for years but never got eaten.


we can all dream you will go try again someday....
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:21 am

Heh that would be a pretty glorious way to go out, wouldn't it??
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby graniteclimber » Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:02 pm

Eldo is world class trad? That place is pretty fun but it's best quality is the proximity to Boulder. If it were 3 hours away no one would climb there.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby vertical1 » Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:26 pm

I think "world famous" is slightly more appropriate than "world class" but don't let the locals hear me say that.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:40 pm

graniteclimber wrote:Eldo is world class trad?


Absolutely. I can't think of many routes in the US that measure up to Naked Edge in terms of rocK quality, position, movement, or history. Rincon Wall is a completely stellar crag, and the moderates on Wind Tower & Bastille are second to none. There are dozens more classics in 5.10-5.11 range as well.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby graniteclimber » Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:40 pm

Hmm. Haven't done the Edge (it snowed and I left town, damn!) but one route doesn't make an area world class. I can think of a dozen routes I suspect would rival the Edge though... and they're all at the Needles.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby dustonian » Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:55 pm

The Edge was better and more memorable than Don Juan and Atlantis IMO, though those are very good routes too. All are in the same category as the Rostrum and Astroman in the Valley, the Prow at Cathedral, anything on the Diamond, maybe Silk Road at Calaveras. To each their own of course, and even though I love a good splitter crack, they are a dime a dozen out west. The Edge is just an incredibly unique and varied route and sits front and center at the proudest, most exposed location amidst a dramatic concentration of great routes. That said, it is not the only classic route in Eldo.
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Re: Climbing Around Colorado Springs

Postby zdordai » Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:49 pm

Looking for sport? Clear Creek Canyon (CCC) outside of denver, South Platte areas like Elevenmile Canyon and Thunder Ridge are excellent, Devils Head up on Rampart Range Road (check to see if the road is still closed before you head up there or its a $25,000 fine due to the fires...); there is excellent steep and vert sport climbing to be had. Yes, shelf is awesome. CCC has more varied terrain, as does Elevenmile. These areas are all on Mountainproject...
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