Climbing photo thread, volume 1

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
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marathonmedic
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Post by marathonmedic » Mon May 02, 2005 9:01 pm

I stand corrected.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.

Meadows
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Post by Meadows » Tue May 03, 2005 9:37 am

diggum wrote:
And that you can see some of Meadows bumps, bruises, chalk on face, sweat...looks very accurate.
You should've seen me later ... blood needs to be added to the list. That and the funny sound effects. LOL

J-Rock
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Post by J-Rock » Tue May 03, 2005 11:31 pm

I'm very glad that there are no tick marks on an FA. Thank goodness! That would feel more like following colored tape and turning the cliff into an outdoor gym. I'm all for the protection bolts, but sometimes the tick marking gets a little bit ridiculous. Is it really that necessary to dumb down a route that much?
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

Wes
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Post by Wes » Tue May 03, 2005 11:43 pm

No tick marks on the FA? Then how do you know where the good holds are?

The amount of chalk from a tick mark is kinda marginal compared to the amount of chalk on the holds that very few people seem to brush. That is much worse to me. I am not a big fan of 3 inch X .5 inch stripes, but a nice thumb print for a foot, or shorter line for a hold or the sweet spot of a hold is totally within my ethical and stylistic standards.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

Huggybone
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Post by Huggybone » Wed May 04, 2005 7:50 am

I'm noticing more tic marks lately. Some are so big I can't tell if its a tic mark or a giant x, or if there has been a snow shower in the area.
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."

J-Rock
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Post by J-Rock » Wed May 04, 2005 9:02 am

Yeah, I think chalk on the holds definitely not the same things as tick marks. Tick marks are like a crutch (or aid) and it takes away from much of the experience for the next climber. It makes it feel more like a gym route with colored tape. I don't want to know where all of the sweet spots are on my onsight attempt. It will ruin the experience by dumbing down the route and eliminating the searching. Of course a route will feel much easier after it has been "wired" and tick marked. The chalk on the holds doesn't always show the "sweet spot" and it is not always obvious from below. Personally I think it is much more fun to find the good holds for myself (on the first go)... I guess I just have different ethical standards.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

dhoyne
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Post by dhoyne » Wed May 04, 2005 9:19 am

I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all. :wink:
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]

J-Rock
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Post by J-Rock » Wed May 04, 2005 9:22 am

Well, since Pigsteak is not here, then I will make a new ruling... I think that if you tick mark a route then you should automatically lower the difficulty by at least one letter grade since finding all of the right holds (on your first attempt) is part of it. :twisted:
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

Wes
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Post by Wes » Wed May 04, 2005 9:22 am

dhoyne wrote:I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all. :wink:
Maybe on some of the slabs, but not on anything very steep. You can read all kinds of hold beta by where the chalk is. Sidepulls, underclimbing, thumb catches all show up in the chalk patterens.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

lordjim_2001
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Post by lordjim_2001 » Wed May 04, 2005 9:24 am

Less talk, more pictures.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.

J-Rock
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Post by J-Rock » Wed May 04, 2005 9:26 am

Ever noticed that many times when you get to a crux that often the worst holds have the most chalk? Or all of the holds will have chalk? Or people will experiment with about 3 or 4 different grips before they decide. And then sometimes the best holds don't have any chalk on them. Ya never really know, but with the tick marks, well, that's different because then you do know.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

lordjim_2001
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Post by lordjim_2001 » Wed May 04, 2005 9:29 am

And since I said that I'll back it up with action. Dial up users are warned:

Me in South Mountain Park, Phoenix AZ, in Janurary.
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Dean on the 3 pocket problem at Clack
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sirtoots on a fun slab at Clack
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Hopefully I'll have more next week.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.

JB
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Post by JB » Wed May 04, 2005 10:22 am

if a problem comes along
you must tick it
if your onsight skills aren't strong
you must tick it

so tick it
tick it good

go upward
get it sent

lower off
after you send it

you brush it
brush it good

on topic:

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Michael Tryon (where are you?) on Roadside

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Chocolate Waterfall... yummy

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Me on Foxfire

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Steve at Stone Mt.

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Sometimes it's good to get up early - J-Tree January 2003

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me on the Lost Coast, northern Cali
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]

Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb » Wed May 04, 2005 10:28 am

first time on andromeda strain i noticed that the hand jams were ticked.. the hand jams were ticked!!! that's going a bit far..

by the way, great pics, jb. the headless climber is particularly inspiring ;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins

Huggybone
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Post by Huggybone » Wed May 04, 2005 11:34 am

I just love it when I GIANT jug, that you couldn't miss if you were blind, has a 4 inch scrape for a tic mark. Who needs something that big?
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."

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