Home Crag - What would you choose?

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
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Home Crag - What would you choose?

Post by Meadows » Thu Jul 28, 2005 10:33 am

So I'm doing a little thinking and research. I love the Red, but I know Lex isn't where I ultimately want to park (I know - some of you are shocked that I consider settling). I've climbed at the New, Smith, Red Rocks and I hung around Rumney a bit, but I wouldn't choose to live near any of those places. Well, Vegas is cool, but overwhelming. Portland is great, but Smith isn't my favorite place (very beautiful though).

So for a sport climber like me who likes a little city action, what would those of you who have traveled quite a bit recommend I consider?

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Post by Paul3eb » Thu Jul 28, 2005 10:35 am

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Post by Artsay » Thu Jul 28, 2005 10:44 am

I love Truckee, Nevada and Flagstaff, Arizona but those are very trad intensive areas. Those towns are waaaay cool and there's so much climbing nearby. I'm thinking your best bets maybe Salt Lake City, Utah or Denver, Colorado. Big cities, good job markets, and amazing climbing in all directions.
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Post by jim » Thu Jul 28, 2005 11:02 am

This is a very good question, and one that I would love to hear people's opinions on as well since I may be relocating in another year and we are making a list of acceptable places. Salt Lake City and Denver are on my list, as well as Vegas. Asheville seems like it would be good as well, although a lot more trad and bouldering than sport nearby. But, isn't the Obed about 2 hours from Asheville and the Red about 5-6 hours away?

BTW, what's wrong with Lexington? It is on my list, but mostly because of proximity to the Red than anything else. Is it not a fun, medium-sized town to live in?
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Post by charlie » Thu Jul 28, 2005 11:28 am

Can't put myself in the perspective of just clipping bolts but I'm thinking about this a lot lately. My choices are as follows (knowing that I dig bouldering -> multipitch trad -> occasional chuff if necessary).

1) Asheville -- best town but not so good job market, surrounded by my kind of climbing and a killer music scene.
1.5) Atlanta -- best job market, easy move for me with friends, killer bars and tons of music, lots of climbing within an easy drive.
2) Boulder -- decent job prospects, a few friends nearby, tons of climbing but it ain't the south and trustafarians kinda bug me. Damn there's a ton of shows rolling through there though. :?

If I were you, I'd open my horizons a bit and maybe not have to depend on bolts.

I <3 lex, awesome city to live in for me cause I can't go anywhere without knowing someone but I'm pretty bored with my current employment and prolly won't get as good a paycheck anywhere else in this town.

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Post by rhunt » Thu Jul 28, 2005 11:39 am

If sport climbing is your goal and you want to live near the best sport climbing in this country...I would stay right where you are. The Red and the New are the best sport climbing areas in the US. I live 4 hours between the two and consider myself very lucky.

The only other place I have ever considered is Vegas. Red Rock is super fun all winter and then the high elevation limestone is really fun all summer if you don't care about manufactured routes(I don't). Vegas is like every other city and you don't have to live on the strip.--plus the bars are open all night--I hate 2am closing time in Cowtown.
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Post by pawilkes » Thu Jul 28, 2005 11:40 am

St. George, Utah or maybe Mesquite, NV would be great as far as being close to sport crags. There's a bunch of stuff out there: Snow Canyon, Chuckawalla, Turtle Wall, etc are right outside of St. George, VRG is within 1/2 hour of St.G and im sure theres other stuff i don't know about. red rocks is only a couple hours away. i don't know what the town is like job or "scene" wise, doesn't matter too much for anti social people like me though. i've thought about moving there b/c of the good climbing and my brother lives pretty close by.
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Post by toddc » Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:30 pm

I just got back from a trip to the North West. Started in Seattle and drove up to BC. I’m not a city guy, but I like Seattle a lot, and I loved Squamish. That place has everything and it’s only about 3 to 4 hours from Seattle. If I move anytime soon, I would definitely consider the Seattle.

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Post by Wes » Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:39 pm

You won't find the amout of killer steep sport climbing that the red has anywhere else in the US. Esp. near any kind of cool city. Boulder/Denver/SLC are probably your next best choices. Or maybe Knoxville, Atlanta or Chattavegas if you want to hang out in the south. In my mind, the southeast has the best of all types of climbing (except alpine/ice/walls/really long routes) anywhere in the US, and esp. kicks ass for sport climbing. If only the weather was better in the summer.
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Post by discojett » Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:41 pm

Golden, Colorado.
You can avoid Boulder and Denver traffic, but hit either one very quickly when you need some "action". Great location, close to the mountains, tons of climbing, biking, boating, etc etc. I can handle Boulder and Denver is very small doses.

I have a good friend there who loves it.
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Post by squeezindlemmon » Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:41 pm


Or Asheville or Tucson or Phoenix or somewhere in the heart of the Northeast (plenty of climbing in all directions!)... we've considered Central NM too, but it's not much of the city action you might be looking for.
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Post by skychick » Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:47 pm

1. Asheville (awesome vibe kind of place)
2. Chattanooga (proximity to everything)
3. Reno (or, if you can foot the bill, Truckee) --which actually gets bumped up on the list, because that's where I'm moving! --[Spray] note that I was less than 3 hours from Reno, last weekend & had to hike through snow in my pants and tank top to get to the routes! [/Spray]
4. SLC
5. Boulder or somewhere Colorado-ish
6. SF -- wicked awesome city, but 4 hours from good climbing

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Post by J-Rock » Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:15 pm

Great thread! So many wonderful choices in so many beautiful areas. To experience the whole spectrum of climbing I would also recommend expanding your horizons and doing some trad climbing and bouldering as well.. I've thought about this often and I thought that the ideal method for me would be to spend 2 or 3 years in each area and then move on to another one. If you are only interested in steep sport climbing then stay in Lexington (route development will be continuing at the Red for many more years so there will constantly be new routes). New River is freaking awesome. I'd love to spend a few years living there. Same with Chattanooga - there is sport, trad, and bouldering all nearby.

The Ultimate Tour:

1. 2 or 3 years in the Northeast (New Hampshire)
2. 2 or 3 years in the Mountain State (WV) New River Gorrge and/or Seneca
3. 2 or 3 years in the Chattanooga/Atlanta area
4. 2 or 3 years in North Carolina
5. 2 or 3 years in Rapid City, SD (Needles, Mt. Rushmore, Sylvan Lake, etc.)
6. 2 or 3 years in the Boulder, CO area
7. 2 or 3 years in Moab, UT
8. 2 or 3 years in Phoenix, AZ
9. 2 or 3 years in Las Vegas, NV
10. 2 or 3 years in So Cal
11. 2 or 3 years in the Pacific Northwest
12. 2 or 3 years in Alaska

I can't decide!!! They are all good!!!
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Post by Ultra » Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:16 pm

I live in Mesquite and I gotta say this place is close to all the action. If I were a girl and wanted to do work other than construction I would chose St George Utah. Couple of reasons over Mesquite or vegas. St. George probably has a couple of hundred thousand people in it. You get a great stabile economy that offers all sorts of jobs across the economic spectum.Everything is not just Gaming oriented or a service industry.
(1) there is not a gym in St G beecause there is a climbing wall right on the edge of town. Chuckwalla wall.
(2) within an half hour of ST G. VRG, Veyo pool,Theres a bunch of stuff in Arizona. Bryce caynon, Brians Head,blah blah blah.
(3) Red Rocks is about a 90 min drive. Mt. Charleston, Clark,Potasi.
(4) J-tree is just down the road.
(5) Yosimite 4 hrs
San diego 4 hours

I'm no the one to tell you all of this Johnathan is. He's got all the places wired.

The main reason I would chose Mesquite over Vegas and St. G over both is..
Vegas has too much crime and illegal immigrants who will cut your throat for a nickel. Mequite is a much slower city but its economy is Gaming and retirement based. Its almost too small here. St G. has a diversified economy and a bigger climbing community. Plus St G haas more social control (less Crime) Mostly because they are all glassey eyed "true Believers". Another thing is Morman girls like it in the butt. :mrgreen:
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Post by spuzo » Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:27 pm

Well - Meadows.....Joe and I are in Mesquite, NV and I have to agree with pawilkes - I think though, having known you for a little bit, Mesquite might be too slow for you, or not enough city - the PLUS is that you are only 45 mins from Vegas - so you can get your city in if and when you want, but have the escape to nice towns when you don't. Mesquite is very very friendly...people talk to you in the stores and welcome you into their homes and families. I thyink you save money here, there is NO place to shop - no walmart even, but one is coming next year.

St. George, UT is the country's fastest growing retirement community - lots of mormons - has everything a bigger city has - lots of nice movie theaters, plenty of shopping, the crime is fairly low and it's 40 miles from Mesquite, about an hour and a half from Vegas.

THE CLIMBING: you're looking at day and weekend trips to LIMESTONE: Welcome Springs - recent advert for Prana in the recent Rock and Ice shows Lauren Lee climbing there at a crag called the Wailing wall and it's been talked about more in the last couple months in the mags...it's a great place - nice free camping, 20 degrees cooler in the summer up there and there is a spectacular cave called the Cathedral with just amazing climbs. Yas has been there, you can ask her about it.
Then there is Mt. Charleston in Vegas as well which is in season now, while Welcome SPrings season starts in about a month.

There is Red Rocks of course and for longer trips New Jack City, J Tree and the rest of Souther Cali.

Yosemite is 4 hours away.

All of Utah is at hand...Chuckawalla Wall - Veyo Pool (totally a great sport training ground. NO approach, pool side climbing...very fun).

Arrow Canyon, 15 miles from Mesquite. 300 ft limestone walls, drive thru the canyon and belay out of the back of your car....woo!

Lime Kiln Canyon - IN Mesquite...great after work crag if you live here.

Anyway, I could go on, but it's not neccessary. There may not be much work for you here in Mesquite, but St George would have a market for you. There are lots of jobs in Mesquite, but I doubt you want to work in a casino.

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