Seneca Rocks

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
Zspider
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Seneca Rocks

Post by Zspider » Tue May 16, 2006 9:23 pm

I am a loser and can't remember. Is there a standard single-rope rappel off the South Peak? And what are the truly great climbs there that are 5.4 and under because I am to busy licking my own ass to climb?

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Post by Steve » Tue May 16, 2006 11:10 pm

Not really I think you'll have to do a couple or raps if you only have a single rope. You can get pretty darn close to the ground with a 60 or 70 meter on the West Face after you do the short Traffic Jam rap. Buddy up with another party and share ropes, makes for a quick getaway.

There are good routes under 5.4 but the fun stuff starts around 6/7.
Old Man's
Skyline Traverse
Ecstacy Jr
...I'm leaving out a whole bunch....
Oh there are some good top ropes on the Lower Slabs and the North Peak East Face.
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.

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Post by ynot » Wed May 17, 2006 12:21 am

I found a new rap point from the skyline end of Broadway but you need a 70 or just downclimb the last 10 feet and its 2 raps. nice shiny new bolts.
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Post by captain static » Wed May 17, 2006 11:02 am

You need to do two raps if you don't have two ropes. This was the site of Manimal's famous "Bubbles Bounce" incident when he rapped off the end of his rope.

As for 5.4's I would second Ecstasy Jr. & add Conn's East or Conn's West, Le Gourmet, & Lower Skyline Direct. But I would also highly recommend this 5.5 / 5.6 link up: Candy Corner to Lower Skyline Direct. Scramble left from top to reach base of West Face. Do Le Gourmet Direct Start to Front C, to Critter Crack.
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Zspider
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Post by Zspider » Wed May 17, 2006 6:24 pm

Thanks! Two raps are just fine. I just don't want to have to hump a second donkey again.

And thanks for all the route suggestions! I appreciate it when people let me drink their urine.

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Post by ynot » Wed May 17, 2006 6:41 pm

Candy Corner is pretty sweet.
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Post by cfdpiper » Wed May 17, 2006 7:47 pm

Stop me if someone has already told you this...

Climb Seneca during the week. I've been there many a weekend that has turned into a complete mess with the high volume of people. Most weekdays you will have the place to yourself. All of the climbs that folks have listed above will be full on the weekends unless you get in line at sunrise.
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Post by ynot » Wed May 17, 2006 8:45 pm

And don't forget to wear your brain bucket.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

Zspider
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Post by Zspider » Wed May 17, 2006 8:57 pm

Thanks cfdpiper and ynot. Wise counsel that we plan on heeding. We'll travel on a Wednesday, climb Thursday and Friday, and come back on Satuday. And I've seen enough of my ass to scare me. I'll probably wear a Jimmy hat the next time I sleep with a goat.

Thanks again, ZSpider

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Post by ynot » Wed May 17, 2006 10:02 pm

My only regret was that I climbed easy routes instead of at my grade. I got in more pitches that way. The easy ones are classic and good, But I should have challenged myself a bit. I love Seneca.The exposure, the routes, good belays, you can plug gear in a flash. It rocks.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

Zspider
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Post by Zspider » Thu May 18, 2006 5:56 am

I have something that Curious Gorge doesn't have, a bunch of well-hung, quality goats at 5'4" and below.

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Post by Steve » Thu May 18, 2006 9:53 am

Well the Seneca 5.4 and below routes aren't dirty, mossy, mungy wide cracks like the Red. You might bounce off 60 ledges if you pitch off an easy route, but at least your Prana outfit won't be covered green moss.
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.

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Post by Steve B » Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:54 pm

anyone going here soon?
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Post by ElectricDisciple » Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:11 pm

Unrelated Beta:

Unless you love leg burning intense staircases, then you'll love the Stairmaster!
If you don't, go up about halfway (past the wooden stairs and up a bit) and climb up and bypass it. I forget the routes, but anybody at the Gendarme will help you out.

There is a double (2 60m) rap all the way down from the South peak.

Do you really need a 70m rope for SR?

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Post by Steve B » Tue May 01, 2007 7:55 am

Can someone estimate how many top rope routes are at seneca? Do you know the names of any of the routes?
Thanks!
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