Lock offs

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One-Fall
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Lock offs

Post by One-Fall » Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:45 pm

Trying to work on my weakness this winter. My main one is the inability to keep my elbow fully flexed during big cross thru moves. Its not my grip or shoulder that opens up, my elbow starts straightening.

What do you do to keep this from happening?
Can't we all just get along?

gripster
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Post by gripster » Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:04 am

Offset pull-ups, dead hangs, 90 degree hangs and everything in-between are probably the best way to improve lock off strength. In case you are unfamiliar with what an offset is, just grab a decent hold up high on a hangboard with one hand, and a bad hold down low with your other hand. enjoy, this will help!

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Post by dhuff » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:42 pm

That's good, and so is just doing a lot of campus training.

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Post by gripster » Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:40 pm

to clarify, the bent arm hangs and dead hangs need to be done offset as well. sorry i didn't know if the original post made since or not.

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Post by Wes » Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:12 pm

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Post by Crankmas » Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:02 am

on Sonnie's blog he is now relating his efforts to heal, I think he says he added weights too early in his workouts that had followed his surgery-heed the man

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Post by JR » Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:08 am

I also have a big problem with crosses. Never really thought about it being a lock-off problem. It could be a number things. Getting stronger almost always helps but might not fix the problem, you might want to consider working on the technique. There is a ton of nuance to crosses. I have difficulty doing moves where I am not square to the wall. Being super frontal is a strong position but hurts you when it comes to performing big crosses. Locking off might be your weakness One-Fall but it might not be the root of the big cross troubles.

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Post by TankAzz » Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:31 pm

also something to consider: while it may be your elbow straightening, perhaps finger/shoulder strength are also playing a hand. i've had discussions lately with fellow climbers who suffered injuries in say, their elbow, only to discover that this was actually caused by underdeveloped muscles elsewhere (i.e., back). just don't lose focus on the bigger picture.
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Post by Izzy » Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:37 pm

TankAzz wrote:also something to consider: while it may be your elbow straightening, perhaps finger/shoulder strength are also playing a hand. i've had discussions lately with fellow climbers who suffered injuries in say, their elbow, only to discover that this was actually caused by underdeveloped muscles elsewhere (i.e., back). just don't lose focus on the bigger picture.
Good call. Every time I spend a few days focusing strictly on a weakness (i.e. crimpy verticals), I find that my core is where I get the most soreness. Similarly, I find that strengthening my core (which usually results in cleaner technique) has solved most of my problems in that regard.
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anticlmber
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Post by anticlmber » Thu Jan 07, 2010 1:36 pm

one that has worked for me is just practicing that move or any move i suck at, (all of them.) for this particular one just grab a decent side pull for the angle and place the other foot on the hold backstep. {right hand on a jug, left foot backstep just under you} d take this stance, cross up/over to a hold but dont grab it jst pause and return to start. switch sides and repeat thenn rest. three-five reps and 2-3sets. increase hold time as you go.

that and holding one-arm lock-offs and trying to lower controlled. careful though.
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dhuff
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Post by dhuff » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:02 pm

Yeah, backstepping is key in big crossover moves. Drop the knee and twist the hips.

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Post by bcombs » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:10 pm

It's also possible your body is sagging which will pull you out of the move. Try some chest lifts with rotation. It will help with the twisty motion while allowing you to stay drawn in.

http://pilates.about.com/od/pilatesmat/ ... tation.htm

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Post by anticlmber » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:47 pm

what about a magnetic nipple ring to help suck you in(at least if the move is near a bolt (ala' american dream) they will help draw you in.

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