Tendinitis

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JeffCastro
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Tendinitis

Post by JeffCastro » Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:50 pm

I have had tendinitis in both elbows for 3 months, I finally decided to go to physical therapy today (thanks Ahmad) and was not very happy with the results. I was basically told that climbing is similar to running in that some peoples bodies are not designed for the activity and I should probably quit. Can anyone recommend a therapist who is in the UK system that would have some familiarity with climbing injury?

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by caribe » Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:36 pm

I think that is utter bullshit. We are primates. We can all climb.

Try that are massager thingie. People have success with it.

Have you tried getting on a push-up exercise program? Fingers turned in, fingers pointing forward then fingers turned out.

Take the grade down a notch for a while. Climb light. Then slowly bring the grade back up.

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by 512OW » Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:30 am

2 words. Theraband Flexbar.
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Re: Tendinitis

Post by Shamis » Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:35 am

1. Never boulder 2 days in a row.
2. never climb 2 days in a row if you're having issues.
3. do pushups to build opposing muscles.
4. stretch your bicepts.
5. warmup extensively. If your limit is 5.12 you should warm up on 10a/b then slowly progress to your limit. warming up on 11b isn't sufficient.
6. take ibuprofen before and after climbing.
7. ice your elbows after every session.
8. If you are having issues DO NOT DYNO. DO NOT DEADPOINT. Climb smooth, climb static.

Follow the above for a month, and you'll be fine.

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by pumpout2004 » Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:43 am

Andrew will jump on this - but sleeping with your arms straight, rather than bent can actually have wondrous effects. Takes a little getting used to, but cleared my tendinitis right up!
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climb2core
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Re: Tendinitis

Post by climb2core » Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:27 am

JeffCastro wrote:I have had tendinitis in both elbows for 3 months, I finally decided to go to physical therapy today (thanks Ahmad) and was not very happy with the results. I was basically told that climbing is similar to running in that some peoples bodies are not designed for the activity and I should probably quit. Can anyone recommend a therapist who is in the UK system that would have some familiarity with climbing injury?
Get a new therapist. I have successfully treated many people (including climbers) for elbow tendonitis. Things to consider trying:

1.) Anti-infammatories. I am not a doctor so I won't tell you what to take, but my patient took 2 x 200mg of Ibuprofen 4x daily.
2.) Counter-force elbow brace. Padded strap that helps take pressure of tendon. Wear during climbing (and daily activity if it hurts with your daily activity)
3.) Give yourself 48 hours between climbing
4.) Ice for 15 minutes a couple times a day.


Things you therapist should consider doing
1.) Ultrasound. 3 mHz, 1.5 w/cm2 for 5-6 min.
2.) Iontophoresis. Uses dexamethasone (steroid anti-inflammatory) that is driven into area of inflammation topically via a process called iontophoresis (basically uses electricity to drive in medication)
3.) Gradual wrist/forearm strengthening program. Often may be helpful to focus on eccentric resistance.
4.) Cross friction massage
5.) Ice/Electrical Stimulation- I usually do Hi Volt.

Send me a pm if you need more direction. Isn't Pigsteaks wife a CHT (certified hand therapist). Go see her if you can.

Man, I think I need to open up a seasonal PT clinic at the Red...

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by shear » Fri Dec 16, 2011 10:49 am

Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea.

Warm up, stretch, cool down each day of climbing.

Do proper antagonist exercises to strengthen.

Ice massage

Cross friction massage

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by climb2core » Fri Dec 16, 2011 10:59 am

shear wrote:Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea.
Please show me the study. I am sure that effect would be with chronic use. Steroids weaken tendons too... but it also helps get rid of inflammation and jump start the healing/tissue repair process. Anti-inflammatories can and do play a beneficial therapeutic role in helping people get better. They are best for a short duration used during the acute onset of the injury. It is not as simple as"Taking them regularly is a bad idea".

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by SCIN » Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:53 pm

It's medial, right? AKA Golfer's Elbow but starting to become known as "Climber's Elbow" as climbing is becoming more popular. Read this guy's blog:
http://www.colinmcnulty.com/blog/2008/0 ... ondylitis/
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Re: Tendinitis

Post by tutugirl » Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:55 pm

I can't tell you how much the Flexbars have helped my elbows for both inside and outside tendinitis, they are cheap easy to carry around and take everywhere to warm up etc. please look at the tabs because the exercises are different for inside and outside elbow tendinitis. I thank my good friend Tony Berlier who showed me the bars...we only use the red and the teal...the blue is way too hard.
http://www.flexbar.info/
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Re: Tendinitis

Post by Andrew » Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:02 pm

There are a lot of good suggestions in this thread, but honestly do you really want to have to do all of that. I have yet to find a person who this hasn't fixed there elbow tendonitis... assuming they actually did it.

Sleep with your arms straight!!!! Actually they don't have to be completely straight, but most of the way. When most people sleep they keep their arms tightly bent, from my understanding this keeps the tendon inflamed all night long, thus giving you no healing time. Actually you get the opposite, a whole night of making it worse. This is especially frustrating if you have spent your whole day doing what everyone else suggested, just to make it worse at night... hard work gone.

I know a lot of people who did all of the above suggestions to no avail, but then started sleeping with their arms straight and dumped the rest of their rehab and it fixed it. Once you train yourself to sleep that way its easy, it only took about a week, and I didn't even sleep bad that week.

Don't waste your time with the other stuff, except for maybe push-ups and ibuprofen.
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Re: Tendinitis

Post by bcombs » Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:08 pm

Do Corpse Pose until you eventually fall asleep

http://online.prevention.com/beatinsomn ... t/12.shtml

Or, get some 4 inch PVC and make some arm sleeves. :lol:

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by climb2core » Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:12 pm

Andrew wrote:There are a lot of good suggestions in this thread, but honestly do you really want to have to do all of that. I have yet to find a person who this hasn't fixed there elbow tendonitis... assuming they actually did it.

Sleep with your arms straight!!!! Actually they don't have to be completely straight, but most of the way. When most people sleep they keep their arms tightly bent, from my understanding this keeps the tendon inflamed all night long, thus giving you no healing time. Actually you get the opposite, a whole night of making it worse. This is especially frustrating if you have spent your whole day doing what everyone else suggested, just to make it worse at night... hard work gone.

I know a lot of people who did all of the above suggestions to no avail, but then started sleeping with their arms straight and dumped the rest of their rehab and it fixed it. Once you train yourself to sleep that way its easy, it only took about a week, and I didn't even sleep bad that week.

Don't waste your time with the other stuff, except for maybe push-ups and ibuprofen.
Andrew,
Please stop suggesting such nonsense. If people start healing their elbow tendonitis but just sleeping with straight arms how will we profit from it. There would be no need for

1.) Cure all books
2.) Physical therapy (Yikes!!!!)
3.) Rollers
4.) Pharmaceutics
5.) Bands, grippers, twisters, and thing-a-ma-jigs
6.) Elbow braces
7.) Doctor visits

It is this type of thinking that has caused the current economic depression. For the love of God, please stop!

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Re: Tendinitis

Post by tutugirl » Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:33 pm

Andrew is not wrong before the Flexbars I had to use a ribbon to tie my arms down to my thighs to cure the habit of sleeping curled up...it was funny but it helped a lot now I don't sleep with them curled up but I still us the Flexbar because it helps in so many ways... :D


Also phone to you ears for long periods of time hurt them too...
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Re: Tendinitis

Post by Andrew » Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:41 pm

tutugirl wrote:Andrew is not wrong before the Flexbars I had to use a ribbon to tie my arms down to my thighs to cure the habit of sleeping curled up...it was funny but it helped a lot now I don't sleep with them curled up but I still us the Flexbar because it helps in so many ways... :D


Also phone to you ears for long periods of time hurt them too...

100%

Still do the therapy, but it will all be a waste if you are sleeping with your arms bent. Also, if I talk on the phone a long time, my elbow definitely hurts... same thing as sleeping except sleeping is for much longer. I no longer have any climbing tendonitis despite non-stop bouldering, dyno's, deadpoints, and everything else that shamis said to stop doing.
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