Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

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Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby climb2core » Thu May 24, 2012 10:28 am

I boulder very little, maybe 10 to 15% of my total climbing. I normally can only make it to the gym 2x/wk being a business owner and a family guy. I can only get out to climb every other weekend in the spring and fall. My gym only has about 25 ft. vertical, so I train endurance by doing from 2-4 laps on routes, depending on difficulty. I try to make my goal being able to climb V3-V4 problems on average while on route.

My thinking is that most 5.13s do not have harder problems than V4 and that when I fall, 95% of the time is because it is I am pumped (assuming I have the beta). I also am a fat old dood and I find myself prone to injuries with bouldering.

Edit: I also am aware that weighing less is of benefit. I am 5'11" and I am really close to going under 170 lbs, which I haven't been since I graduated highschool.

So for all those 5.13 climbers:

Recognizing all of my limitations, what would you do different?
Last edited by climb2core on Thu May 24, 2012 11:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby One-Fall » Thu May 24, 2012 10:45 am

I'm not a 13 climber, but I've climbed a few. I would suggest that in the Red there are 13s you do not need to be a good boulderer to send. And if you are able to link v3s while pumped, you will be able to do those.

Now if you fall in love with the gently overhung crimpfests with marginal feet, I feel that finger strength/weight ratio is paramount with a strong core being second.

That being said, I rarely see the Hester's crew do anything enduro related beyond something akin to density blocks. Their collective bouldering ability allows them to get through just about any crux without being too fatigued.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby der uber » Thu May 24, 2012 10:45 am

My buddies just boulder. And work in a little weight lifting, hangboard, cardio from time to time. But basically the guys I climb with just boulder during the week and then do routes outside on the weekends.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby climb2core » Thu May 24, 2012 10:56 am

der uber wrote:My buddies just boulder. And work in a little weight lifting, hangboard, cardio from time to time. But basically the guys I climb with just boulder during the week and then do routes outside on the weekends.


How many days a week do they get to the gym? How many days/month on the rock?
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby tbwilsonky » Thu May 24, 2012 11:04 am

maybe. but increasing your max strength/power can't hurt.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby der uber » Thu May 24, 2012 11:06 am

climb2core wrote:How many days a week do they get to the gym? How many days/month on the rock?


2-3 days during the week. Usually 1 day per weekend.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby Andrew » Thu May 24, 2012 12:09 pm

Daniel woods seems to sport climb well.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby kafish2 » Thu May 24, 2012 12:11 pm

The toughest part of a Hesters workout is the hour long CF training warm up and the few hours of EA training to cool down.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby camhead » Thu May 24, 2012 12:16 pm

climb2core wrote:I boulder very little, maybe 10 to 15% of my total climbing. I normally can only make it to the gym 2x/wk being a business owner and a family guy. I can only get out to climb every other weekend in the spring and fall. My gym only has about 25 ft. vertical, so I train endurance by doing from 2-4 laps on routes, depending on difficulty. I try to make my goal being able to climb V3-V4 problems on average while on route.

My thinking is that most 5.13s do not have harder problems than V4 and that when I fall, 95% of the time is because it is I am pumped (assuming I have the beta). I also am a fat old dood and I find myself prone to injuries with bouldering.

Edit: I also am aware that weighing less is of benefit. I am 5'11" and I am really close to going under 170 lbs, which I haven't been since I graduated highschool.

So for all those 5.13 climbers:

Recognizing all of my limitations, what would you do different?


While it is true that quite a few RRG 13a's don't have moves any harder than v4, climbers who max out at v4 in the gym and can still send 13a are outliers, and incredibly rare. I'm not sure why, since I'm pretty new to the training thing myself, but I'd predict that, by the time you send a 13a, you will be bouldering harder than v4; either because of specific training, or because repeated runs on your project will by default make you stronger.

Oh, and you're in Columbus, right? If you want to really train for fall sendage over the summer, shoot me a message and I'll hook you up with our co-op gym. Way better facility for power-endurance than VA.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby toad857 » Thu May 24, 2012 12:26 pm

climb2core wrote:Recognizing all of my limitations, what would you do different?


more cheeseburgers.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby climb2core » Thu May 24, 2012 12:35 pm

Andrew wrote:Daniel woods seems to sport climb well.


Yeah, we have almost identical lifestyles.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby climb2core » Thu May 24, 2012 12:40 pm

camhead wrote:While it is true that quite a few RRG 13a's don't have moves any harder than v4, climbers who max out at v4 in the gym and can still send 13a are outliers, and incredibly rare. I'm not sure why, since I'm pretty new to the training thing myself, but I'd predict that, by the time you send a 13a, you will be bouldering harder than v4; either because of specific training, or because repeated runs on your project will by default make you stronger.

Oh, and you're in Columbus, right? If you want to really train for fall sendage over the summer, shoot me a message and I'll hook you up with our co-op gym. Way better facility for power-endurance than VA.


I can boulder harder than V4, V5 or I think V6 if I work a problem. Man, I just don't know if I a down with hitting a gym associated with TR.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby Shamis » Thu May 24, 2012 12:58 pm

I would think most 5.13 climbers don't have any trouble with v6.

Training endurance is probably sufficient for the red though.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby 512OW » Thu May 24, 2012 2:37 pm

The short answer is no, you don't need to.

The better answer is yes, you should anyway. If you're already approaching 5.13, I'd suggest that you're training be mostly bouldering, focusing in blocks of power and power endurance. General juggy endurance comes fast... in just a couple of weeks... faster if you've had it before. Power is a much harder thing to gain, and will allow you to do harder moves without ever becoming anaerobic, thus increasing your "endurance" by default.

Not to mention, if your time is limited, power training is far more efficient. 4 or 5 hours a week in the gym is more than plenty to grow your power.
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

Postby allah » Thu May 24, 2012 4:09 pm

Like I've said before just go do Paradise Lost, I know it gets 13a but it's super easy and soft for the grade and no moves harder than v2! I you can do it :)
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