Being strong without climbing plastic???

Quit whining. Drink bourbon. Climb more.
User avatar
One-Fall
Good Egg
Posts: 843
Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 8:27 pm
Location: Louisville

Being strong without climbing plastic???

Post by One-Fall » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:05 pm

Can it be done? How many people out there feel that they are making gains and don't climb plastic? I can't seem to break from my current level to the next, but I rarely climb on plastic and I never boulder (because I can't believe how bad I am at it). Is some ego-shattering plastic pulling what is needed to reach the next level?

Both sides of the argument welcomed.
Can't we all just get along?

Wes
Believer
Posts: 5180
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 11:46 am
Location: Torrent!
Contact:

Post by Wes » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:07 pm

More power is never a bad thing, eh? If not plastic, then at least campus board. Or try to climb routes a few grades over your limit bolt to bolt. Kinda like bouldering on a rope.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

SikMonkey
Titty Purist
Posts: 1463
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 11:35 pm
Location: Headin' home

Post by SikMonkey » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:46 pm

Man, I used to DESPISE (in other words, I really disliked) bouldering, but found that when I focused on bouldering (on plaskit), my route climbing improved 100%. Dave Scott used to get on my case about it all the time and as bad as I hate to say it...he was right. I love it now though and I have my very own bouldering monolith in my garage!

Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?

User avatar
tbwilsonky
Chuck
Posts: 868
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 5:38 pm
Location: Lexington
Contact:

Post by tbwilsonky » Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:53 am

I think you can be emotionally strong without climbing plastic (though I remain skeptical), but if you want to climb strong, you need to saddle up on some urethane.

As an alternative, you can always quit your job and move to Slade.

--t

Toy
Mutant
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:16 pm

Post by Toy » Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:59 am

Climbing on plastic will certainly help you gain power, but there is no substitute for mileage on real rock if you want to become a better sport climber in the RRG

captain static
Hippifried
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:05 pm
Location: On Yonder Mountain
Contact:

Post by captain static » Tue Oct 04, 2005 11:25 am

From looking at your spray list I highly doubt that pumping plastic would help you break through to the next level. Have you made any assessment of what your weaknesses are that may be preventing your improvement? Whatever they are you need to identify and then work on them. If you plan on coming to Rocktoberfest this weekend you should talk to Arno & sign up for his clinic. One of the best things that I ever did to improve my climbing was to take a private lesson from Jason & Tiffany Campbell. They pointed out my weaknesses and gave me specific exercises to work on them. Any input you could get on your technique from people climbing at a higher level than you is very valuable.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

Meadows
Puppy Pimp
Posts: 5425
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:03 pm
Location: Singing in the sunshine - laughing in the rain

Post by Meadows » Tue Oct 04, 2005 12:13 pm

Maybe you should cut back on the two six packs of Ale-8/week. :wink:

tomdarch
Compendious
Posts: 2407
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 5:22 pm
Location: Chicago, IL
Contact:

Post by tomdarch » Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:28 pm

I checked out the spray list also :shock: You and I climb at, er, different levels, but what's working for me is a base on plastic, and then when I get on real rock, I can really feel an improvement. For you it might be the reverse: you mostly climb on rock, but if you add some gym/bouldering it could help.

One thing Horst promotes is periodizing your training. For endurance and power-endurnace, the Red is the place. But for working periods of pure power, you might need to hit the gym or go bouldering.

Do you take breaks from climbing? For Horst's cycle it's 9 weeks on, 1 week off of climbing completely. Once in a while, it's good to take a few weeks or even a couple of months off. Your body can heal and you'll come back fresh and potentially re-energized. I hate breaks - I usually come back a little weaker, but I feel like I can link movement better - something 'settled in' in my brain. I talked to one guy this weekend who said he was plateaued at V6, did a six or nine month deployment on an aircraft carrier (nothing but the weight room and fantasizing about climbing), and was sending V9 pretty soon after he got back.
Bacon is meat candy.

Wes
Believer
Posts: 5180
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 11:46 am
Location: Torrent!
Contact:

Post by Wes » Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:33 pm

More power is a good thing. Esp. when you are working on those hard 12's and easy 13's. The power to knock out v6 boulder problems means you can do the v4 - v5 crux moves while pumped way easier. So, start bouldering, or just start trying mid to hard 5.13's.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

mcrib
(from the board)
Posts: 1096
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:17 pm
Location: Flexington, Ky

Post by mcrib » Tue Oct 04, 2005 3:07 pm

I didn't slimb on plastic for a year. Not because of some moral stance but because there is no gym in Lex. While I did get out quite a bit I had my best year of climbing. I also think it is alot easier to get hurt on plastic. But I would also say if I had the oppurtunity I would boulder inside on a regular. Boy I doubt that helped at all.
"I just want to disappear"

mcrib
(from the board)
Posts: 1096
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:17 pm
Location: Flexington, Ky

Post by mcrib » Tue Oct 04, 2005 3:07 pm

Listen to Toy!
"I just want to disappear"

SikMonkey
Titty Purist
Posts: 1463
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 11:35 pm
Location: Headin' home

Post by SikMonkey » Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:51 pm

I am stoked as cat piss in a forest fire to do some bouldering this fall (on my wall AND.......*GASP*....outside). I JUST bought my first crash pad believe it or not! A big ol', fat-assed, keep-my-ass-from-falling-through-the-ground-all-the-way-to-Chna, Misty Mountain Magnum.

Anyway, to further add confusion, boulder indoors to intensely train your anaerobic endurance and then get your butt up as many routes as you can outdoors.

Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?

Meadows
Puppy Pimp
Posts: 5425
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:03 pm
Location: Singing in the sunshine - laughing in the rain

Post by Meadows » Tue Oct 04, 2005 9:49 pm

SikMonkey wrote:I am stoked as cat piss in a forest fire to do some bouldering this fall
Mj
Where the hell do you come up with these phrases? My favorite thus far is that coffee makes you "shit like a goose through a screen door."

You're actually going to travel away from the Red? Do you know that it requires camping [outside]? Just checking ... maybe I'll go too. :D

Sunshine
Steppenwolf
Posts: 567
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 1:20 pm
Location: To the right of Moonbeam
Contact:

Post by Sunshine » Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:55 am

We all feel your pain. But I must ask. How hard is hard enough? When you break on through, (loose weight) and you will break through, will that be hard enough? Will you be OK with just "easy 5.13"? Chasing numbers can be like acquiring wealth. As long as someone else has more (power/buying power) you won't seem to have enough. How many of us have said, "If I could only climb 5.? or if I just had more money I would be happy"? Yet, when we get there we find that nothing has changed. Well OK, now you can do more cool routes and belayers are lining up to give you a catch as you make your next breakthrough and you just bought a new crag. Priceless! What was the question?
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep

User avatar
One-Fall
Good Egg
Posts: 843
Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 8:27 pm
Location: Louisville

Post by One-Fall » Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:04 am

Good point, Sunshine. I have just noticed that almost everyone around me seems to be improving, and I have kind of stood still. One of the big things I have noticed about them (the improving group) is that they climb on plastic a fair bit.
Can't we all just get along?

Post Reply