Getting It Back

Quit whining. Drink bourbon. Climb more.
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Artsay
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Getting It Back

Post by Artsay » Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:31 pm

Three big injuries and eight months later I'm finally back to climbing. I'm climbing less than two number grades below what I was previously climbing and man, does it feel hard.

Has anyone been there and have a ballpark as to how long it takes to get it back? I've had to take six weeks off before for an injury but this is much different. Fortunately I can climb outside three days a week and train in a climbing gym.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Michelle
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.

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Post by Horatio Felacio » Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:33 pm

i took roughly 9 months off of climbing once...on my best tries, i was climbing 3 to 4 number grades lower than what i previously could. i think it took a month or two to get back to about the same level.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast

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Post by rhunt » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:16 pm

I am right with ya Artsay. I was off for 5 months and I am still not 100%. I couldn't on-sight 10c on Saturday and I have been climbing consistantly now for about 4 weeks. It does take some time and it depends on if you were able to stay fit without climbing. In my case I did pretty much nothing for 5 months, so I am very unfit and carrying some extra weight. I don't expect to be climbing back to 100% until winter/spring.

I'd say keep doing what you are doing but be very careful not to over do it too soon. Lower your expectations and try to enjoy the process. After my last bad shoulder injury and surgery, it took me about a year to come back but when I did I climbed better than ever before.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist

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Post by rhunt » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:20 pm

oh and I took Spragwa's advice and climbed at the Shire this past weekend. It's a great rehab cliff, lots of comfy moderates to do laps on, just bring warm clothes, it very very cold at that cliff!
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist

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Post by Meadows » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:20 pm

8 months off and I watched her send an .11 on Saturday. :roll: I think it will come back quickly, Artsay!

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Post by Meadows » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:21 pm

rhunt wrote:oh and I took Spragwa's advice and climbed at the Shire this past weekend. It's a great rehab cliff, lots of comfy moderates to do laps on, just bring warm clothes, it very very cold at that cliff!
Although I didn't have 8 months, that is where I started with 6 weeks off and it was great!

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Post by pigsteak » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:35 pm

can we rename it the gumby/old fart/rehab cliff?
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Post by kirker » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:58 pm

pigsteak wrote:can we rename it the gumby/old fart/rehab cliff?
No don't do that it will draw a crowd. :P

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Post by Artsay » Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:17 pm

Meadows wrote:8 months off and I watched her send an .11 on Saturday. :roll: I think it will come back quickly, Artsay!
HA! Yea right...you walked up the cliff *after* I already fell all over the place. And getting to the top took every ounce of my being (unlike you who floated to the top of your warmup).

I'm like you rhunt...I didn't (couldn't) do anything upper body wise the whole time I was off and feel like a sack of potatoes with all the weight I've gained. Everything feels so dang hard...

One thing's for sure...
I have a whole lot more appreciation for how hard 5.10 is now.

Thanks for all the responses you guys...
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.

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Post by ynot » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:00 pm

Falling off routes you sent 2 years ago is a bit disheartning. I just keep at it and take each day on the rock for what it is. Some days I send ,some days I go home with a smile in spite of not sending. You are young, you'll snap back.
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Post by redpointron » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:38 pm

pigsteak wrote:can we rename it the gumby/old fart/rehab cliff?
i thought about naming it "washed up wall" (since washboard was already taken), but i called it "the shire" for quicksilver (goodguy's dad) -- he loves him some science fiction -- who is recovering from surgery right now. hope to see that old fart rehabbing out there in the near future. get well soon.

don't have any specific answers for you michelle, but i have, more than once, taken several months off and come back. i just enjoyed being outside again and took the pressure off myself. enjoy the fall, train this winter, and tear it up again come spring.

regards.

r.r.

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Post by Horatio Felacio » Tue Oct 10, 2006 4:35 am

pigsteak wrote:can we rename it the gumby/old fart/rehab cliff?
i think you should rename all those crags...unless you like gay shit.

north 40? crag in arkansas...you know that pigsteak.

the shire? hmmm...the homosexual misadventures of frodo and sam...c'mon.

roadside? it's not that close to the road.

drive by? not quite.
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Post by pigsteak » Tue Oct 10, 2006 6:57 am

yeah I agree Ho..it is quite gay, and leave it to a twirler to point it out.

the original name was Ho's Happy Haven...should we go back?

it's called curbside sally, and we are expecting you to apply for a job as a carhop once it is ready for service.
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Post by Meadows » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:21 am

Horatio Felacio wrote:
roadside? it's not that close to the road.
I thought most of the crags were renamed by SikMonkey ... Chodeside, Left Skank, Miliscarey, etc.

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Post by SikMonkey » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:44 am

Yes Meadows, it's true. I have spent countless hours renaming most of the cliffs. Unfortunately, not enough people appreciate true artistic creativity and want to follow in my path and support my renaming of these cliffs using these sacred monikers which I have lovingly bestowed upon them. It's a sad sad day. In fact, I am SO sad, I think I am going to go solo something at the Lode to take my mind off things. Oh, and midgets are strange.

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