Elbow tendonitis/tendonosis

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512OW
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Elbow tendonitis/tendonosis

Post by 512OW » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:19 pm

I've been plagued for years with serious elbow pain when I boulder or sport climb alot. I recently read an article in Rock and Ice or Climbing about exercises to do to strengthen those tendons...

Basically, you do reverse wrist curls, with a fairly heavy weight, and instead of curling the weight back up, pick it up with the opposite hand, so as not to engage the muscle so much.

To make a long story short... I initially tried it like a "rehab" type exercise.. not really pushing it very hard. Did nothing. I gave up on it. 3 days ago, the pain got unbearable, so I started it again, this time going until failure as if I was actually working out. I iced afterward. The pain is 90% gone... even after two of the most intense training sessions of my life.

Forget drugs and all that shit. Old fashioned workin out, if done right, does the tricks.
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Post by whadam00 » Thu Jan 18, 2007 4:56 am

I found the same thing--reverse wrist curls that is--to work for some nagging wrist tendonitis I've been having for years. It's all but gone now.
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Post by krampus » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:35 am

Its amazing what not being lazy can do for your aches and pains
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Post by captain static » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:01 am

After one of my partners was put out for a whole year with elbow tendonitis I did some research and started following Horst's advice (http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training%20 ... itis.shtml) doing the reverse wrist curls & pronators.
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Post by Dhaulagiri » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:24 am

I have been on the shelf the past month with the exact same thing. I had been trying to do the wrist exercises and icing and the progress was slow. The past 2 weeks though have been great as I have re-doubled my efforts to do the exercises and ice religiously. The key probably has been that I have not climbed for once while injured. I have also been taking it easy now that I am climbing again and I got one of those tennis elbow bands that seems to help although it doesn't allow my arm to expand enough when I get pumped on those 5.7's!

Too bad I am now having joint pains from typing detailed in another thread here :?:

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Post by krampus » Thu Jan 25, 2007 5:32 am

I have been trying the work out for the last several days and so far it has only agitated my elbows into hurting, I will continue however to see if that is just a necessary evil in the recovery process.
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Post by Lateralus » Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:59 am

OW you could always just use the other arm for repetitive activities
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Post by 512OW » Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:31 am

I've been ambijackerous forever. No worries there.
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Post by mcrib » Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:03 pm

my elbow just started hurting I've actually been climbing a little less. the pain started after going on a road ride. So I am hoping it is something besides tendonitis
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Post by Christy » Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:14 pm

What about wrist tendonits? Any beta on that? I went to therapy & all they did was ultrasound & heat therapy, which is a pain in the ass with a baby on your lap and didn't even help. They also told me that there weren't any exercises to do to help it. About that time I declared th full of shit.
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Post by dmw » Tue Apr 03, 2007 9:49 pm

Christy, look at what whadam-something-or-another wrote about that... it does definitely work.... i was having a lot of problems with it until i incorporated the wrist curls and reverses into my lifting schedule....

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Post by bcrock » Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:04 pm

I have been plauged with elbow tendonitis for many years. For me it is brought on by too many pull ups and push ups. I have tried the wrist curls, they work as long as I slack off the ofending activity. I even tried the elbow straps. The straps do something, but, I am not sure it is a good thing.

Experience with other soft tissue injuries has taught me that if I cam get blood to the problem tendons without damaging the tendons that nothing but good will come of it.

I have always thought that assisted pull up machines were for whimps who could not do real pull ups.

Two years ago I humbled myself and used one of those machines. I had just overdid it with the pull ups and was suffering with entense elbow dendonitis. The gym I had just joined had an assisted pull up machine. A light came on in my little brain. To make a long story short here is what I did. I lowered the resistance until I could do 4 sets of 20 reps each without any pain. I did this about 4 times per week for about a month. I slowly increased the resistance but kept the reps high. If there was ever any paing I backed off. This all took place during a winter. During the last month I increased the resistance and reduced the reps until I was donig 4 sets of 10 reps each (my normal load). I could have and can do more, but, when I do I am asking for trouble. That was the end of my nagging elbow tendonitis that has been with me for years.

The reduced resistance and increased reps heated up the joint in such a way that did not hurt anything. My elbows and shoulders felt really good and strong through the whole thing.

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Post by SikMonkey » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:29 pm

I just started doing bench presses, shoulder presses, and dips again. Combined with some rest and VERY light climbing, my tendonitis went away in no time.


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Post by Jeff » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:47 pm

I had it in my right shoulder.
Doc said to lay off all the hard work, ie working out, building, and climbing.
Gave me those silly rubber bands for stretching exercises which I did as often as I could.
It went away and I feel much better, but I don't know if I will ever get my motivation to work out as intensly again. Which sucks. Maybe I am just lazy.

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Post by ynot » Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:38 pm

Changing jobs has done wonders for all my aches and pains. Not gone but not constant anymore.
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