ReBolting the Mother Lode

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dustonian
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:49 am

Left and right sides of crag are 80% done. Cave work will likely begin this winter, and Madness is first on the list. I am currently sidelined by a severe allergy to Hilton RE500 epoxy, the type that must be used in warm temps.

Huge thanks again to Mike Wheatley for all his hard work!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by drifter » Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:47 pm

Thanks for the update and all the hard work!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by heacocis » Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:56 pm

dustonian wrote:...Hilton RE500 epoxy, the type that must be used in warm temps.
Dustin, why do you say this? Is it because it is more user friendly, or is there a chemical/technical reason it literally must be used?
Wave Bolt- the best climbing bolt available! www.wavebolt.com

"...I'm over all that macho stuff, and if I bolt a route, it will be done properly." - Colin Goodey

dustonian
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:00 pm

I was referring to temp differences within the Hilti epoxies... RE500 for temps >50-55F and RE150 for <50-55F. I much prefer the RE150 (in fact it's all I can really use anymore with the allergy), but it sets up in a matter of minutes in hot weather. Looks like I'll be making the switch to Epcon or Powers for summer bolting.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by heacocis » Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:17 am

dustonian wrote: Looks like I'll be making the switch to Epcon
Of course that is what I was getting at! You may never use the Hilti stuff again.
Wave Bolt- the best climbing bolt available! www.wavebolt.com

"...I'm over all that macho stuff, and if I bolt a route, it will be done properly." - Colin Goodey

dustonian
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:25 am

I actually love the Hilti 150. The 500 is fairly sticky & toxic but performs well. To be honest I'll use whatever is available--either by discount or donation--I'm definitely no brand whore. If people wanna give Epcon to TeamSuck for this mega project or for Rebolt the Red day (this coming Sunday!), then I LOVE Epcon!! ;)

On that note, if anyone does have some cash burning a hole in their pocket, we are in dire need of more glue, bolts, anchor hardware, and tools for Sunday's Rebolt the Red activities. We also need a battery-powered angle grinder if anyone has one of those to donate or loan. Please get in touch with me, CLIMBTRAD (Patrick Miller), or Blake Bowling via http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com if you want to help out in this way.... we are low on glue especially for the routes on the list for Sunday, and donations are HUGELY appreciated and very helpful.

Huge props to JJ, Josh O'Bryan, Kyle Fisher, Yasmeen Fowler, Brad Combs, and of course Patrick for steppin' up to the plate this Sunday for RtR!! There may be more too, so please let me know if I am forgetting anyone!! :)

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:28 am

Big thanks to Rick Bost and Brent Dupree for the donations today! :D Keep 'em coming...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by clif » Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:08 pm

curious, the re500 looks to be about $35 at piece, i'm guessing that does 7-10 bolts? each bolt/hanger must be $12? just wondering what it takes to make a difference or if i should just skip the second 6 pack tonight.

just ignore that. some of it is covered in the opening post. looks like a route costs about $60.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

dustonian
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:17 pm

A ballpark figure is $6-8 per stainless steel glue-in bolt including epoxy, plus gloves, glue mixing tips, drill bits, hole brushes, anchor hardware, hole patching putty, and misc. tools (e.g. angle grinder, breaker bar, rebar cutter, etc).

For comparison, a 1/2" stainless steel 5-piece expansion bolt + hanger is in the neighborhood of $14-18 each (believe it or not)... hardly worth more than double the price.

Mega props again to all-around badass Mike Wheatley, who in the last couple weeks alone has rebolted SKWBA, Twisted, & Trad Sucker!!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dssclimb » Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:03 pm

I've got an angle grinder you can borrow

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:23 pm

dssclimb wrote:I've got an angle grinder you can borrow
Thanks, Dave!! That's great. Rick Weber donated his old one (which incidentally kicks ass) to the cause, but if we could borrow yours for Sunday that would be very helpful as we will have multiple crews out working at different crags. Will you be around this weekend? Send me a PM.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by clif » Fri May 03, 2013 3:46 pm

how's this going?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by Cromper » Fri May 03, 2013 5:46 pm

Finished one eyed willy today. Ropes on beavis and team wilson need to come down. I'll get them my next trip out if theyre still up.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by drifter » Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:58 am

First off I wanted to say thanks for all the hard work done by the volunteers at the Lode. The new bolts look great. I was curious about the status of the work. A few years ago I donated the money to rebolt the Madness but I don't think it's been worked on yet. Is this still an ongoing project? Thanks again!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:07 pm

Madness and Omaha are next. Just need to find someone with the skills, time, and motivation.

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