ReBolting the Mother Lode

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Meadows
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by Meadows » Fri May 27, 2011 12:37 pm

AWESOME! I've heard rumor on this and I'm psyched! I'll help anyway I can, just keep me away from a drill. I'll even provide food on any major bolting days. Let's make sure we have donation jars at events or maybe it's time to pull out Bodde's idea of $5 donation shots. ;-)

How about a "Route of the Month" feature so people know to which routes they are specifically supporting?

When the link is official, push it hard on Facebook for anyone concerned.

Dustin, Hugh ... you guys are great.

I <heart> the Motherlode!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Fri May 27, 2011 12:39 pm

Right on Andrew... this has been seen historically at popular sport crags around the world.

Thanks Meadows!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by the lurkist » Fri May 27, 2011 1:43 pm

Alright! So Blake has the paypal link up and running. You will get a receipt for Richard Bowling (Blake).

www.teamsuckclimbing.com go to the "help out" link and see the prominent Mother Lode rebolting button.

Thanks yall. Let's knock it out. Already have several hundred bucks. Nice!
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by dustonian » Fri May 27, 2011 1:54 pm

Nice Lurk. I wonder if we could get Blake drunk enough to code an adopt-a-route app for his site as well...?

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by Yasmeen » Fri May 27, 2011 2:18 pm

Just donated, and would love to help rebolt this summer. Thanks for getting this going, guys. :)
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THB
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 3:45 pm

Andrew and Dustonian:

I understand both sides of the coin... and some days I agree with one side and some days I agree with the other... I guess it's just a frustrating condumdrum that I'm going to have to learn to live with... I've fought the other side as well... see my OP about perma-draws which I posted last year (I think...)


At any rate... I just made my donation... routes that I wouldn't mind "adopting"...

stain, buff the wood, skinboat, ale-8-one, chainsaw, kick me in the jimmie, burliers bane... i certainly didn't donate enough to re-bolt all of those routes, but i'm not sure what routes everyone else already donated money towards...

also, i know how to bolt, so i'd be happy to help out with the rebolting of these routes! i've never placed one of the glue-in bolts, but i'd be happy to learn!

please keep me posted...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 4:09 pm

one other thing... i was going to purchase some steel biners (for replacing bad biners on perma-draws, or bad biners on anchors, etc...)

dave scott did this a while back and he got a super bargin on some steel biners and so he bought a bunch that he's been scattering throughout the gorge... i forget exactly which brand of biners he bought... but they have a red gate (i think...) and i'm sure you've seen them at the lode amongst other places...

at any rate... i can purchase the C.A.M.P. gym safe carabiner which is a steel biner with an aluminum bent gate and a keeper pin, they retail for $9.95 each... i can get them in packs of 3 for $21/pack, with shipping (if i order 20 packs) it works out to about $7.65 per biner... it's not a great deal, but it's better than $9.95 each... and if i order more than 20 packs than the price per biner keeps going down a little bit at a time...

if anyone wants in on this, than just shoot me a p.m. and we can organize a big purchase of steel biners... or, if anyone knows of any deals that are better than this one, please let me know... i'm all for jumping ship if we can get cheaper steel biners elsewhere... (i haven't done much shopping around...)

let me know... thanks...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by ReachHigh » Fri May 27, 2011 4:26 pm

I like the keeper pin on them. a quick link and some locktight would keep them on the route.
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by vertical1 » Fri May 27, 2011 4:38 pm

THB wrote:this past weekend i was at the lode, and some girl walked up to the undertow wall (i'm guessing her first time at the lode...) and she was like, "okay which one is chainsaw, let me at it... i mean i'm probably going to hang all over it..." and she did, she hung at the 2nd bolt and couldn't even pull the crux moves at around the 5th bolt... come on, she had no reason to be on that route... she was just adding chalk and shoe rubber to the route... go look at tissue tiger for example, i was on that recently, and there is shoe rubber and chalk all over it! there is a slopey rail that some people use for a foot at the start of the crux, and it's so polished and full of shoe rubber that most of the time your foot just pops right off! i ended up doing it without using that foot...

just some food for thought... regardless, i'll make my monetary contribution before the end of the day.
I guess you have never hung all over a route. I have, and promptly sent second go. The matter is that she has a right to be on the route as much as someone who climbs it blindfolded as a warmup. Its a popular route for a reason.

As far as tissue tiger, it doesnt have perma draws but is substantially more "polished" than chainsaw, so mentioning it in your argument makes no sense. But I will say thanks for donating, as I have done the same.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 5:44 pm

Mack5 wrote:
THB wrote: i ended up doing it without using that foot...

.

Nice Spray
yes, that was my intent....

oh, by the way... i also did it naked, climbing upside-down, oh and i was soloing it too...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 6:34 pm

vertical1 wrote:I guess you have never hung all over a route. I have, and promptly sent second go.
correct... i always send promptly on my first go... sorry you don't have my luck...
vertical1 wrote: The matter is that she has a right to be on the route as much as someone who climbs it blindfolded as a warmup.
i agree... but, it's not a matter of rights...

i have the right to take my non-climber friend out to the crag with me and slap a grigri in his hands and have him belay me on a route... but then when i fall and deck (which wouldn't happen, because i don't ever fall...) because i didn't properly teach him how to use the grigri it's up to the others at the crag to step in and deal with the situation...

i wouldn't do that because it's irresponsible of me... just like a 5.10 climber shouldn't get on a 5.12 route because it's irresponsible of them...

and i'm not saying that this particular girl had no right to be on that particular route... i'm just using the scenario as a generalization... it happens all to often that someone gets on a route that is way out of their ability level just because it has fixed gear on it and there is no consequence to them directly... but the consequence instead gets placed on the route and on the fixed gear, and then it gets placed on climbers like you and i that are donating our own money to help maintain these routes...

oh, and i also have the right to pee and poop where ever i want in the middle of the woods, because i don't care about LNT ethics and i don't care if you step in it when you are hiking up to the crag... and i don't care because i'm leaving from my road trip in a week, so it's not a problem to me, i'll just leave it up to the locals to clean up my mess...
vertical1 wrote:As far as tissue tiger, it doesnt have perma draws but is substantially more "polished" than chainsaw, so mentioning it in your argument makes no sense.
yes, but tissue tiger tiger is 4 years older than chainsaw, and i've seen tissue tiger with fixed gear on it at times... and i'd be willing to bet that tissue tiger gets more gang-banged by 5.10 climbers than chainsaw ever does based on the other routes that are at military compared to the other routes that are at the lode...

there are way too many other factors that go into it to just say that mentioning tissue tiger in my argument makes no sense.

my point is, go get in tissue tiger if you haven't been on it recently... it's quality has declined significantly compared to a few years ago, let alone compared to when the route was put up...
vertical1 wrote:But I will say thanks for donating, as I have done the same.
you're welcome, and thanks to you too for your donation...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by Jeff » Fri May 27, 2011 8:16 pm

Nice work guys!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by vertical1 » Fri May 27, 2011 8:26 pm

THB wrote: oh, and i also have the right to pee and poop where ever i want in the middle of the woods, because i don't care about LNT ethics and i don't care if you step in it when you are hiking up to the crag... and i don't care because i'm leaving from my road trip in a week, so it's not a problem to me, i'll just leave it up to the locals to clean up my mess...
It is not your right to pee and poop where ever you want in the middle of the woods unless you own the woods, then by all means....
THB wrote: yes, but tissue tiger tiger is 4 years older than chainsaw, and i've seen tissue tiger with fixed gear on it at times... and i'd be willing to bet that tissue tiger gets more gang-banged by 5.10 climbers than chainsaw ever does based on the other routes that are at military compared to the other routes that are at the lode...

there are way too many other factors that go into it to just say that mentioning tissue tiger in my argument makes no sense.

my point is, go get in tissue tiger if you haven't been on it recently... it's quality has declined significantly compared to a few years ago, let alone compared to when the route was put up...
I think the quality of Tissue Tiger is fine, at least as of late April. Were it not for the polishing, prob would be 11d/12a, so thank the masses for your 12b send.

My response has to do with you criticizing other people for hanging on a route without justification. Like I said, I have hung all over routes before. Now a proper example of someone being on something over their head would be the following:
I was at Left Flank last year, had given a beta run on Wild, Yet Tasty (sorry I couldn't flash it), when a small group showed up and wanted to get in the lineup. Guy almost sends (he grabbed the chains to clip), but then gets his girlfriend to go up the backside of the rope on TR. Now she hangs all over it, spending 30 minutes on the route, to finally lower at the 4th bolt, all the while others are waiting.

If your example showed details of someone who really shouldn't be on the route, I would have completely agreed, but what you said, I had to disagree with, possibly due to misinformation, or lack of information.

On a lighter note, putting SSGI bolts at the Lode will be a huge improvement! Great Idea all those involved.

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