ReBolting the Mother Lode

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THB
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 9:53 pm

vertical1 wrote: It is not your right to pee and poop where ever you want in the middle of the woods unless you own the woods, then by all means....
no shit, i was being sarcastic about a problem in the red that drives me crazy...
vertical1 wrote: I think the quality of Tissue Tiger is fine, at least as of late April. Were it not for the polishing, prob would be 11d/12a, so thank the masses for your 12b send.
No, it's still 12a...
vertical1 wrote: My response has to do with you criticizing other people for hanging on a route without justification. Like I said, I have hung all over routes before. Now a proper example of someone being on something over their head would be the following:
I was at Left Flank last year, had given a beta run on Wild, Yet Tasty (sorry I couldn't flash it), when a small group showed up and wanted to get in the lineup. Guy almost sends (he grabbed the chains to clip), but then gets his girlfriend to go up the backside of the rope on TR. Now she hangs all over it, spending 30 minutes on the route, to finally lower at the 4th bolt, all the while others are waiting.
well, i'm so sorry that i didn't give a "proper" example... but, thanks for your example which sounds almost identical to my example... you are supporting my argument. thanks.

well, this was a productive and positive thread until i derailed it with my comment about perma-draws... i was just putting out my opinion that i don't feel that routes like stain, buff the wood, ale-8-one, chainsaw, and kmitj need perma-draws... but i understand that you might have a different opinion than me, which is totally okay... agree with me, disagree with me, either way i don't really care... this argument has gotten to be petty, i'm over it...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by SunshineGIRLdolphins » Fri May 27, 2011 9:59 pm

Hey THC, that's all you got?

THB
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 10:06 pm

below me, trebek
Last edited by THB on Fri May 27, 2011 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by SunshineGIRLdolphins » Fri May 27, 2011 10:09 pm

its "SUCK IT" stupid THC

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 10:13 pm

you can "suck it"

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by softballdyke69 » Fri May 27, 2011 10:23 pm

wow, this is more gay than the chicks i do on my friday nights.
Last edited by softballdyke69 on Fri May 27, 2011 11:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Fri May 27, 2011 10:24 pm

hilarious... classic

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by jimmy » Sat May 28, 2011 1:47 am

I just donated $60 to the fund. As much as I hang out at The Lode, I'd like to give a little something back. That should be enough to bolt any of the beautiful 7-bolt routes on the Undertow (plus 2 anchors). Since, THB was a little vague in his wishes, I'd like to adopt Skin Boat. I've already spent more time on that route than almost any other in my life, and I plan on spending more time on it in the Fall. I hope more people step up and raise the money needed to rebolt this most excellent crag!

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by THB » Sat May 28, 2011 2:29 am

hey jimmy... skinboat is yours for the taking... i'll take whatever no body else wants or whatever...

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by truthmiracle » Sat May 28, 2011 8:41 am

:D I love the long view, the long look ahead, the long look back, and the big picture. Thanks for proposing this! You can count me in. I guess I've probably placed over a hundred mechanical bolts in limestone and granite and close to 20 in the sandstone of the Red (which may have to come out. :( I've even done some hand drilling in granite (FUN!) I've never glued bolts in, but I could tell right away that that was probably the way to go when I started drilling here, and of course, SS is the way to go. I have epoxied much rebar into concrete while constructing bridges and buildings and, perhaps, those epoxy systems would be as good or better and maybe cheeper than what you've got now? I have no idea, but I could obtain some tubes for testing, if desired, and likely talk my company into buying a crate at their reduced contractor rate, if desired. I still have a reasonably strong back and hard head, and my bosh has been working well. Donating funds isn't an option now, but hopefully will be later. I named my first major project Nirvana (in Sinks Canyon, Wyoming) and I do want to go there, but I'd rather have 2 ladies with experience than 20 virgins, and I'd like to bolt the headwalls from the ground up.
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by truthmiracle » Sat May 28, 2011 8:57 am

climb2core wrote:How about adopt a route... one person pays for the glue ins and perma's on a route. We put a tag at the base with their name on it and they get cuts forever on that route :)
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by truthmiracle » Sat May 28, 2011 9:08 am

"Agreed, and there will be a concerted effort for folks to rebolt the routes they are most familiar with (which will become more of an issue on the harder stuff!) to keep things as safe and flow-y as possible. As an example, the third bolt (above the little pinchy sloper crux) on KMITJ is close to groundfall potential if you fall while clipping. Therefore the new SSGI should go a bit below, rather than above, the existing 5-piece. Anyway, that's just an example... Also, it will be better at first to stick with equippers who are familiar and experienced with glue-in bolting techniques, as it is very easy to make a humongous mess on the wall and the ground with epoxy when you are first learning how to place glue-ins, and we definitely don't want that happening at the Lode."

Very good points and thinking. Has anyone ever replaced a bolt using the same hole as the old one? Sometimes a placement is more or less perfect. I've also wondered a lot about placing a new bolt close to an old bolt, especially in soft rock... It seems to me that the first hole would compromise the integrity of the stone for some radius. Any testing done on that? Should there be a minimum distance from the old hole for the new hole to be?
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by kneebar » Sat May 28, 2011 9:10 am

Sounds like a great idea Hugh!

Just curious though, who owns the property, and/or the access? If it is private, is the owner on board with the changes? Just want to make certain a year down the road after a lot of time, effort, and cash isn't wasted with a closer. Is access sound as in the PMRP....... that is as close as it gets to sound.

And I'm not trying to bring up a debate about if it needs done or not, it does.





But again, thanks Hugh

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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by Artsay » Sat May 28, 2011 9:29 am

Is there an address I can mail a check to? I can donate with PayPal if that's easier for you all but I'd rather give you the extra bit of $$ PayPal will eat from my donation. :-)
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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode

Post by Andrew » Sat May 28, 2011 12:10 pm

kneebar wrote:Sounds like a great idea Hugh!

Just curious though, who owns the property, and/or the access? If it is private, is the owner on board with the changes? Just want to make certain a year down the road after a lot of time, effort, and cash isn't wasted with a closer. Is access sound as in the PMRP....... that is as close as it gets to sound.

And I'm not trying to bring up a debate about if it needs done or not, it does.





But again, thanks Hugh

I don't think we have to worry about that
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