Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

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tyler.yarbrough
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Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Tue Feb 18, 2014 1:38 pm

Elemental Climbing Club in Louisville put together this list, and based it on many of our experiences and some of our favorite routes (most memorable, most terrifying, best movement etc...) We would love to get some more input from the community at large. Did we miss your absolute favorite climb for the grade? Do you have an amazing story behind your reasoning? Do you think our list is total crap? Check out our blog post and let us know!

http://www.elementalclimbingclub.com/bl ... e-by-grade

Spikeddem
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Spikeddem » Tue Feb 18, 2014 2:13 pm

Amarillo Sunset is some tepid, off-brand generic cola. King Me is Classic Coke.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Willy » Tue Feb 18, 2014 7:31 pm

Granted I'm not strong enough to touch the grade, I don't see how Golden Boy gets runner up to Cut Throat when it's been voted the best 13b in the country before in magazines. Also the Infidel should be a strong contender for best 11d. All things is a little too short and atypical to be the best IMO. Swedish Fish might also deserve to be mentioned and every grade ought to have a runner up listed for that matter. Pretty good list though for an inherently subjective topic.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tbwilsonky » Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:11 pm

Spikeddem wrote:Amarillo Sunset is some tepid, off-brand generic cola. King Me is Classic Coke.
agreed. Amarillo is nice on the eyes, but King Me is something you'd be willing to settle down with.
haunted.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by kafish2 » Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:25 pm

I think Nagypapa slides in for the win at 13d. No rests, perfect slopers followed by tough as nails crimps, try hard crux at the end, super solid rock. Ultra perm, slab Traverse start to avoid the real start (oh three starts to this one?) UP also has a crux defined by a size dependent and sharp fingers slot and a no hands knee bar. Ultra perm is awesome, don't get me wrong, but not even in my top 3 in the red at the grade. It's all subjective though right?
Last edited by kafish2 on Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

tyler.yarbrough
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:00 am

For whatever reason (call it just pure stupidity or ignorance) King Me evaded my memory when generating this list. It was the first one that people started yelling to put on the list and now it is in it's rightful place alongside Amarillo. Old school, and new school.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Wolf » Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:53 am

I'd take 27 Years of Climbing over Boilerplate, but I'd put Boilerplate 2nd.
http://contributor.yahoo.com/user/496691/daniel_beck.html

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by mjkusn01 » Wed Feb 19, 2014 8:04 am

Tyler, you're allowed to have your favorite 11b in the Red and we don't have to agree with you. These lists are anything but objective.

Even still, what were you thinking when you didn't include King Me?

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by DJB » Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:13 am

You have some really good routes listed, but I'd rank OJ and Steel Worker as better 12c's than CB6. OJ would be in contention for best route in the Red of any grade.

tyler.yarbrough
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:50 am

Good thought on OJ, I've never been on steelworker but heard that it is burly. I've added 27 years and King me to the list as well as Nagypapa at 13d and Mercy the Huff at 12b. Would love to hear more feedback

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian » Wed Feb 19, 2014 11:40 am

Agree on 12c, but it is a packed grade in the Red: Steelworker, Mosaic, Belly of the Beast, Hang Over, Super Slab, Astrodog, and Bush League are all in there IMO. Also Big Money Grip, Blue Eyed HJ, and Ale 8 for 12b, Bare Metal, Supafly, Wildfire, Swahili Slang, or Bloodline for 12a, Infidel, Ethics Police, or Fibrulator Direct for 11d (All Things is pretty mediocre and short really), and Banshee or Crown of Thorns for 11c. For 5.10 and below, there are dozens of trad lines better than most of the routes. listed... B3, Inhibitor, and Day Tripping put the rest to shame at those grades. Also, Super Dario is a much better 11a than Bathtub and probably Jack in the Pulpit or Fire and Brimstone for 10d over BB with its easy start, poison ivy no-hands, and recent upgrade from 10c. And for that matter, probably Loompa or Banjolero over Thunderclinger.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by nik » Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:35 pm

pogue ethics is a much better rock climb than creature feature, imo. creature feature is two bolts of awkward, polished slab to 3-4 fun roof-ish moves, to walking up a jug ladder. pogue ethics on the other hand is a beautiful, long line with interesting holds and terrific movement really from start to finish.

tyler.yarbrough
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:53 pm

IMO I honestly had way more fun on Bathtub than I did on Super Dario aside from the flake feature up high which was amazing. Also, didn't have a wonderful, memorable experience on Jack in the Pulpit or F+B...maybe I need to revisit. Wildfire is one badass mother of a line, and Thunderclinger got thrown out there as a seldom done, but underrated route. That thing was so much fun, wanted to bring some more attention to a great line. Bare Metal probably does need to be on the list despite a personal vendetta against that rig, also considered Hippo and Scar tissue as a team... because together they are about 1 RRG route length.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by shadow.ayala » Wed Feb 19, 2014 4:49 pm

No one knows about it yet but 'Grim Reaper' @the Graveyard in Miller Fork is easily one of the best .12a in the gorge.
Nagypapa @military has the best climbing of any route I have been on in the red.
My project @Beer Trailer will be an undeniable classic @.13b or c, once I have completed it. No rests, power endurance. The 'Golden Boy' of the Beer Trailer.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Wolf » Wed Feb 19, 2014 8:16 pm

I doubt that All Things Considered is mediocre, although I haven't done it. Dave the Dude is probably better than it or any other 11d in the Red, though.
http://contributor.yahoo.com/user/496691/daniel_beck.html

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